"Sometimes you just have to decide to accept the fact that you will have some condensation at the level of indoor humidity that you consider "reasonable" or else you have to find a way either to lower your indoor moisture-level even when it is already closing in on "nose bleed" or invent a method of warming your window glass." -oberon That's the money shot right there. Ultimately you want the humidity level in your home to be comfortable, yet low enough to prevent condensation on your windows. Unfortunately, here in WI and in your area there are times when both of those goals can't be achieved even with very efficient windows. At some point you will need to make the air a little drier than you prefer if eliminating the condensation is your main goal, or just deal with a little moisture on the windows if comfort is paramount. Personally, I try to get the Rh as low as I can stand, and whatever condensation still happens is what it is. I do not run a humidifier, but do have a very tight house.

I can't help you with your request for codes. But I do have a small window behind my gas range and I love it. Since I usually do messy cooking on the front burners, spatters are minimal and clean off easily. No problem at all with the window heating, and I now have a powerful Capital Culinarian range, not the one I had in the photo below. If I could have afforded to lose the cabinet space, I would have made the window much larger. However, I never open it when I am operating the top burners. Of course, mine opens at eye level, not high as you show. In your case, I see no problem with the window behind the range. I do not, however, quite see what use the top window will be if you want to use it to exhaust stove odors and heat. When you open it, won't the wind be at least as likely to blow in as out? Circulating the odors more widely through the house? And won't it be really hard to reach the crank to open and close it? Or do you need the window just for general ventilation? Are there perhaps not enough windows close to this one for general air circulation in the kitchen? In that case, this makes sense. But why not make both windows openable? Or is that against code? Certainly you would not open the bottom one when using gas burners. Certainly many people choose to do without a range hood. But have you considered both a big window and a range hood? There are may pictures of this on HOUZZ. It can be spectacular. [Traditional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by Dallas Home Builders Ellen Grasso & Sons, LLC

I bought these rods back home, before moving to Florida. I had a lot of windows and did not want to pay a fortune for them... couldn't afford to, actually, even if I wanted to. I bought them at the Christmas Tree Shop It is a black rod that fits 44" to 108" and the square lamp post finials come with it, although they do twist off if you ever wanted to change them out. I also have the Spiral/birdcage rod 14.99 Rod, finial and brackets included Black Square Rod I'm about to order 2 more of them...the ones I have have been up for almost 6 years and they are goodlooking and sturdy... no different than any other rods I've seen Now, if you wanted a bit more choice in styles and not as inexpensive but a bargain compared to RH prices.... check out the second link... many styles.. I'm in love with modern brass rods and quite a few of the modern rods. That is the link to the second page after i used the dropdown to opt for 30 items per page/ Just look to the top and click on Rods & Accessories> Decorative Rods Curtainandbathoutlet.com More choices

The room will definatly gain heat if sun is alowed to hit glass door. Much has been discussed about floor covering. To get maximunm benift of sun don't put carpet,cork or other insulators on floor where sun hit's floor. Without insulation sun will heat floor. If windows don't leak air heavy drapes is more bang for the buck compared to new multi-pane windows. The additional glass has no insulating value at all. The air trapped between panes is what stop's heat loss/gain. Heavy drapes create dead air space that does the same thing. Replacement windows are far overrated and expensive. To properly install a window require's extensive demolition which is rarly done. Botched installations are common. Before spending that kind of money,have someone you know has has experience in home construction and you TRUST look at yours. Caulking and weatherstrip repalcemnt can make a big difference for little expense. I realize you are not pleased with some things previous owners did but I doupt they had anything to do with under slab ducts. Not saying it isn't done but ducts beneath slab aren't usually installed unless insulated. Before stopping them off try and have a trusted person have a look. I could give countless cases where ac techs made untrue statments. Not neccessarly being dishonest,they simply didn't know better. One come's to mind where ducts were underfoot similar to yours. When I went out to look at hvac for new owner,the neighbor came over while I was at outdoor unit. He said rest of house was always comfortable but the dining and living rooms had never heated or cooled well since house was new. What I found was carpet scrapes that had been thrown into floor openings. They had blowen down and piled up out of sight blocking air flow. You need someone with training and experience to help you make decisions and they need to be there,not in another state behind a keyboard. I realize that isn't solving your problem but hopfully you get a trusted friend to help you sort this out before spending your life savings chasing it.