La koala wrote- "Actually, I'm very intrigued by the idea of this Sink Setter. Do you think it would be viable/helpful in this situation: I want to have a 30 inch undermount single-bowl sink in a 33 inch cabinet. The Ticor description says the sink fits into the cabinet--but I think that the little clips that come with the sink aren't going to work in this case, and the sides of the cabinet will have to be scooped out to allow the sink to fit in the inside. I read somewhere on this forum that scooping the sides reduces the strength of the cabinet, so the support for the sink is less than if you didn't have to scoop the sides. So, do you think the Sink Setter would be a good solution for bracing in that situation?" We are installing a 25" undermount sink into a 24" cabinet-totally pushing it. It requires shaving the sides of the cabinet, and notching the top of the cabinet sides to make space for the flanges. The sink cabinet has been wood-reinforced along the front and back to compensate, and the sides of the next cabinets help too. Like you we don't have room for clips, and little room for many bracing systems. I found out about the sink setter on another forum oriented towards DIYers. We ordered ours online for CAN$28. My engineer husband was very pleased with the design of it because it fully supports the weight of the sink and plumbing - there is no reliance on caulking/epoxy for weight support. Here is a link that might be useful: a DIY thread that I learned a lot from This post was edited by feisty68 on Tue, Apr 1, 14 at 12:53

Not advised to create a ledge. You physically can, but now you depend on silicon to keep things water tight. If you keep a zero reveal or an overhang, then water is less likely to accumulate on the sink flange (Which is used to create the ledge). The silicone then can stay intact longer, and not be needed as the primary water guard. Often the biggest problem we see with ledge sinks is with the installation. Some issues we have been told is with accessories not fitting. However, this is easily avoidable with two best practices: 1. The fabricator should always follow the template 2. Once the hole is cut for the sink, dry fit the accessories to ensure smooth sailing from the client. If you like ledge sinks then check this new release: Kraus Kore

Please provide a budget. Any minute there will a couple posters popping up on here telling you that Rachiele sinks are the only sinks to get (they are not). They pop up like prairie dogs from the sand whenever they see the word "sink" in a post. And those sinks cost a couple thousands, to start. I recommend Kraus sinks because they are a lot of bang for the buck, and have such great reviews on this forum and elsewhere. You want a 16-gauge sink. Some people think an 18 gauge (thinner) sink is fine, but I agree with you about the tinny sound and feel. But since you can get a 16-gauge sink with Kraus for a reasonable price, there is no reason to get an 18-gauge one. Elkay sinks are actually a very good brand, but they do sell builders special sinks that are 20-gauge (which is probably what you have), while their finer 16-gauge sinks are expensive. I also recommend a rectangular single-bowl. What width sink are you looking for?

Most likely contamination, but stainless can of course corrode as well if exposed to certain conditions (that’s why there are thousands of different alloys). Most stainless is sold to ASMT/ASME standards stipulating the chemical composition, but what some are pointing out is that there is an allowed range for each alloying element and generally Asian manufacturers alloy low to maintain a low cost. A 304/304L SS from brand x is not necessarily alloyed as high as a 304/304L from brand y. The chemical composition, even within the allowed min/max range for the same alloy will have an impact on the corrosion resistance. Still, I think this is contamination and should come out. If not, you can remove it mechanically and the steel will reform the chromium oxide layer.