So ive been in the trade since I was 14 hanging on weekends and after school ( family ) im now 33 and have been full time since highs school, I have over 15 years of solid exp as a piece worker, hanging and finish, seeing someone say if they can hang 70 sheets in a week they are happy makes me wonder if they really know how much money they could make if they learned how to "piece work"??!!.... my brother and I charge $25 per sheet for a basic house with 8 ft cielings, if its a house with more detail we could charge up to $35 per sheet, that's just labor, if we supply material its anywhere from $50 up to $70....the location plays a factor also....houses on the coast tend to be a higher price....anyways say we have a house that's 150 sheets ( 12 foot sheets ALWAYS ) we hang it in 2 days and tape, finish, sand in 5 days.... hanging is always faster money cause your only doing it once! so say we are charging 25 we split it in half 12.50 to hang 12.50 to tape...so that's $1,875 we split 50 50 that we made in 2 days.... we always get a check after hanging then again after finish....and most of our contractors are right there to pay when the last screw is in then when the dust hits the floor......if we are charging 35 we would take 15 to hang 20 to tape....we also do commercial work when we want a break from houses....and that's through another bigger drywall company.... but you can make a lot more piece working commercial stand ups....we mostly tape when it comes to that but we can do anywhere from 350 - 500 sheets a week 10' stand ups, but since its through a different company and not for our own we may get 12-14 a sheet.... but still 350 sheets a week at 12 is a 2,000$$ week!! ( its not always like that but it can be!!) and if your thinking well why doesn't every0ne do that then.... cause not just anyone can!! even guys that are good drywallers and do a great clean job and really know the skill doesn't mean they know to "flow" and hang 80 sheets a day or tape 400 a week.....and just an fyi, our work is by far top quality so no just because we run and go fast doesn't mean we "butch" anything!!.... its called pride and wanting to be the best at what you do!

Hello Christine, >> Pretty easy fix for the tape: * Get a small tub of vinyl spackling compound or "joint cement". * Gently lift the tape, and put just a tiny bit of "mud" onto the wall with a narrow putty knife. A thin "see-thru" layer is fine. * Next, use a wider (4"-6") knife and spread an even layer on top of the tape to "set" the tape into the wall mud. Use LIGHT pressure at the wall-corner! Ya don't wanna tear into the corner tape. * Object here is to have a seamless application of mud over this tape area. After it's dry, LIGHTLY "feather-sand" your patch with a 220-grit sanding sponge. * Vacuum off the dust from area, prime (1 coat) and paint (2 coats!!). The most common is FLAT on ceilings...usually because people don't want sheen from lamps, etc. on a ceiling. However, Eggshell is a nice choice too. Very subtle sheen (depending on brand!!). TOOLS: Use the best brushes/roller-covers you can buy. * Get a nice stiff roller-frame...$5-$10 for a good one. * Buy/borrow a STIFF pole!! Painting overhead with a "bendy" pole/roller-frame is a PITA! * Use a 3/4" or maybe 1" nap for popcorn ceilings...3/8" or 1/2" for smooth surfaces. Enjoy! Faron

Carefully cut the loose tape off and get a small roll of self adhering mesh tape. You'll find it where the drywall finish tapes and compounds are in most hardware stores. Pick up a small bucket of joint compound. After ridding the area of loose material, place some mesh tape over the joint and work in a coat of joint compound using a 3" putty knife, one that has a little flex to it. You can even get an inexpensive plastic one for this repair. Let that dry, carefully sand any bumps and apply a second coat and let dry. Try to lay it on as smooth as possible and feather the edges after applying the mud by wiping the outer edges smooth. Let dry and carefully sand, apply a third coat if necessary. To match the texture, homax has a texture repair kit in a spray can, typically for orange peel textures but you can do a knockdown with it. Spray the texture on and let it sit until a light skin has formed on the texture, take your putty knife and lightly flatten out the texture to match your knockdown. If it doesnt look right, sand smooth and give it another go until you get it where you want it. They also have texture kits that come with pre-mixed texture and a spray bottle. All of this will be found in the drywall sections of most hradware stores. Primer with kilz to eliminate any stains and paint to match.

Thank you everyone. I'll make a general reply to everyone. The damaged areas have all been drywalled, taped, textured and primed, but I'm still struggling with paint colors in that area so we've been painting bedrooms instead. (whole house reno.). Basically, all the drywall was done and over. Some of the damaged areas were on walls with a flat texture (i.e. no texture) and some on walls with a sprayed orange peel. I wouldn't feel comfortable patching either kinds of texture myself. If you patch an orange peel area, how do you get the texture back on the flat patch you just did? Our painting company is called Breezy DH, Inc. We're DIYing where we can, and wall and ceiling paint is certainly doable. No painters fixing holes. :( We did decide to have our trim and doors professionally caulked, sanded, and sprayed as it would take DH many months to do that painstaking, detailed work with his schedule. I am the GC so it does fall to me to take care of this. I finally heard back from the flooring company. My rep will be stopping by in the morning to take a look at the walls. He did give me some slight bs about damage below the trim, but agreed that there shouldn't be damage above. Accidents happen, but I know they were moving very fast and didn't seem that careful when I watched them several times during the first two days. I will not have the floor installers do the repairs. Didn't fall off the turnip truck yesterday. :)