I can see why you're having a problem. I can only tell you my own personal view. I wouldn't make it a deal breaker to decide between all-plywood and MDF. There have many discussions here and the MDF seems to hold up fine and has some plusses over plywood. My picky DH is doing all plywood, where I would have gone with MDF and the savings...and the easy clean interiors. 3/4" drawer boxes seem like overkill. As I said, dh is picky, especially about sturdiness, and we're having 1/2". 3/4" will be heavier and take up more space...Not a lot, but why give up any if not necessary. I'd worry much more about how the corners were joined over the thickness of the material. I'm not a fan of soft-close...Lots of money for drawers that close slower. Is slamming that much of a big deal? Not to me, even with 8 kids. We'll have full-extension slides at around 1/3 the cost and dh thinks they're heavier. (He was pushing for the soft close until he compared the sturdiness between those and what we got.) I think it would be a pain to have some drawers that have it and some that don't. You'll have to think about what 'touch' to use, depending on which hardware they have. I would like the flush finished ends for cleaner look on the crown. But it's possibly one of those things you'll never notice after it's in. Have you looked at examples of each so you can see what you think? As I said, all of those things are my opinion, and don't necessarily say anything for one of your choices over another. Have you spoken to anyone who has used any of these companies? Do they come in on budget and on time? Is their work wonderful and do they fix any mistakes without a hassle? How far are the less expensive 2 from meeting your vision? Can they come closer to it? $13K is a lot of money for other things if you won't notice any difference in the kitchen after you're using it. It depends a lot on your financial circumstances and priorities. Getting it 'right' may be worth $13,000 to you, while saving the money and having it 'close' may be preferable...Only you know that. Is this the house you'll stay in or a house you might sell in a few years?

Did they break ground yet? It is my understanding that you sign contracts, the builder puts it to attorney review which usually takes 2 weeks here. During this time, you go to the design center to pick the upgrades and while picking them, may have to put money down on them so that they can be ordered. I'm seeing a bunch of builders, KB Homes, Pulte, American West, Richmond, Summerlin, DRHorton, Lennar, Toll Brothers, Beazer, Engle, Centex with pricing jumping all over the place. Looking at those sites, some start off cheaper. It may be possible that they will move you to another cheaper location so that they don't lose you as a client and you don't lose your money. If they have not poured foundation or broken ground, it's possible they will change the model to a cheaper one if there is a cheaper one. I don't think all is lost. One never knows, depending on how far along this is. We just put a bid in on a house that the original people changed their minds by deciding to build on another lot. The house had granite in the kitchen, a faucet that was over $2,000 as well as things we didn't need. We were able to take some things out even though the sales lady wasn't sure if we could. We then figured out what the house was worth to us and placed a bid which was accepted. They may have pulled permits or poured foundation but also may be able to sell the house to someone else. There's another property that we were offered that we passed on. Last week it was being framed but still not sold. They are called quick move in homes and usually sell. Builders are hurting. Look at K. Hov's sale this weekend. While you may still qualify for a loan, you may not qualify for as much. They very well may work with you, so you should prepare for that. Getting into a community farther away with a less expensive base may be the only way you don't lose it all.

Doh! I just realized that my U-galley takes a 30" drawer base after corner cab to make a 42" wide aisle (not a 6" pull-out). Total brain-fart! That being said, I actually like Buehl's layout #2. I would DEFINITELY wrap around the corner, whether you close it off or leave it with an island open on both ends. There just is not enough counter / storage / specific prep areas for what you do with the galley. The "L" with island will be MUCH more useful and efficient. But, if you do have enough space for bulk storage in the storage room behind the kitchen, I'd still consider shifting the fridge 12" into the pantry area. That way you can create a a longer (48" to corner sink) prep area between the range and corner sink dedicated to your activities that require water and heat (cheesemaking, canning, meat prep); that stuff takes up a lot of space and is MESSY! I would REALLY try to keep these activities totally separate from the dry grain / baking area. Based on Buehl's layout #2: Shifting fridge 12" into pantry space = Fridge, 33" drawer base (groceries, hot pots), range, 18" drawer base, 30" drawer base (meal prep, cheesemaking, canning etc). Corner sink base separates wet / dry prep. Along the end wall I'd run a 54" counter with two 27" drawer bases (instead of 48" run). This is because you loose at least 4-5" of actual drawer interior, so two 24" cabs = approx 19" wide drawers, whereas 27" cabs = approx 22" wide drawer interior. The end will then line up with the back of the island. This would be the baking zone. On the island I would use a 36" sink base, not 30". This will make the short aisle between the island and baking center 36" wide, which is fine since it's not the primary work zone and there are no major appliances there. -- You said that you like to bake "A LOT." I'm wondering if maybe you want an extra oven? If so, in the baking zone you can put a 30" wall oven installed under the counter after the sink base and then a 30" drawer base. This will extend the "L" to 60", so 6" beyond the back of the island, but it doesn't appear this would interfere with your dining room. The oven door will open into the main work aisle, not into the island side. Honestly, it sounds like you live on a farm and are really into the Homesteading lifestyle. That is pretty much my DREAM, and my "Dream House" and kitchen is designed for just such a life (no meat though, I'm a vegetarian ;) Unfortunately I live in the burbs, and I am still making sure to eek out every inch for separate zones with as much storage and counterspace as possible. My pantry will actually be outside the kitchen in order to do this, and since you have that storage room, you can afford to lose 12" to gain a larger canning / cheesemaking area. 3 ft. just isn't long enough for that, especially if someone else is making a meal at the range at the same time. Also, I really think you will want one really big sink, 33"-36". Great...

We went from laminate to granite and we are very glad we did! We actually had no problems w/our laminate...but I was careful not to put hot pots directly on it. My big complaint was the "look & feel" as well as the "feel" under the edge of the laminate....it was rough like a "torn" piece of particle board. It was even shredding in a couple of places. We had a gray speckled laminate so the stains we had did not show. The granite has been great! No sealing ever required (we have Absolute Black Premium w/some silver inclusions....very few though). Yes, dust is noticeable if the counter is not wiped off for a few days, but since we generally wipe off all counters each day, it hasn't been an issue. We also have a stainless steel sink. Our old kitchen had one as well....for 12 years. There was only one recent rust spot that I remember when a steel can was left in the wet sink overnight...but it was not that noticeable (I now know that Bar Keepers Friend would have removed that stain). It did, however have scratches....but after a year or two it developed a "patina" as the scratches melded together to form a "finish". It was very easy to keep clean! We decided to put another stainless steel sink in with the remodel and we have no regrets...undermounted this time! As to "breaking dishes and glasses against the undermount sink edges"....most likely the sink had a "negative" reveal (countertop extends past sink edges so you don't see the edge of the sink) and, yes, I've heard that can be a problem w/that reveal--at least until you get used to it. We went for a positive reveal b/c of that plus I didn't want to have to feel or crane my neck to look under the reveal to see if there was any "gunk" under there. BTW...we have not yet broken a single glass or dish on our granite [knock on wood!]...and I was prepared to deal with it until we got used to it! We ruled out Corian/solid surface very quickly as I think it looks "plasticy"...but that's only my opinion. If you are that concerned about the structural integrity of you house...then I really think you should have a building/structural engineer (correct person?) look at your house to see if you have anything to worry about....and not just for granite (think of water in a bathtub!). You might also consider 2cm granite instead of 3cm. This is your kitchen, though, so go with what you are comfortable with and like! Good luck!