Still guessing, but I try to add some more things to do. Do you hear anything when you crank it with the plugs out?? does it hesitate or have a hitch in the rotation when you have the plugs out?? Any hitch or hesitation will be mulitiplied with the plugs in especially if you hear any noise. things I would look for. Remove the starter and look at the bendix teeth, look at the flywheel teeth. Do a compression check (compression should be atleast around 100 PSI). this will tell you that the valve seat and valves are sealing and closing, Doing one cylinder at a time may also narrow the problem down to one or the other if the engine stops rotating when checking compression which may lead to a connecting rod problem. If you got good compression and the engine spins with plugs out and no unusual noises or hesitations and the drive belt and elect pto clutch aren't binding. Then I would suspect the starter, usually starters last quite awhile, but unless your are an electronic's expert your guessing. Starter is a high dollar item unless you find a used one or one on ebay for at least 1/2 price. Before I replace the starter I would go ove the battery cables again checking for any corossion (on the cables internally) and points of contact I would also jump across the starter solonoid to illimate that. I'm out of guesses or procedures unless you come up with something else. If it was me I would try another starter before I tore into the engine unless I found some evidents of a rotating part problem. I not that familar with V-twin Kohlers, but it still should have valve covers (usually the cover can be reinstalled using the old gasket unless you tear if when removing it) which you can remove and watch the valve action when cranking the engine with the plugs out if you have no compression in one cylinder, if you have good compression (in both cylinders) and no noises then the rotating internal part could be ilimated. I know another tool you probably haven't got, but you really have to have basic tools multi-meter, compression kit, vacuum gauge to have a chance to narrow some problems down.

Door skin isn't normaly made in 1/8th increments,more like 32nds so yours is likly a common thickness. A belt sander would remove material very fast BUT, with presision slightly better than an axe in the hands of most woodworkers. The surface must not have hills and valleys when skin is glued. I know you can't buy specialized tools for this but that might be what it requires. A body file used to level bondo just might be the ticket. If you mentioned belt sander because you already have one,if you are carful you may be able to remove 75% then go to hand sanding. The paper should be backed up with blocks as you move through the grits,final grit the coarsest that doesn't leave a bunch of wiskers. When you think the surface is level and 98% of skin is off,lightly mist the surface with quick drying paint like krylon or laquer in a contrasting color. Don't coat the surface,just a mist that looks like overspray. Use final grit backed with a 2x4 51/2" or 9" long to sand the paint mist off to reveal low areas. 75%+ of surface paint free is glue ready. That's only one method but hopfuly gives you ideas of your own using tools on hand or that can be borrowed.

The cheap hand held sprayers do not spray heavy bodied paints or primers. If you thin the product enough so that it will spray, its integrity has been compromised. The hand held Graco sprayers will spray heavy bodied latex or oil paints, but the price range is about $180 to $270. Simple air compressor powered siphon guns will also not spray heavy bodied paints or primers. Even if they did, they require large compressors capable of delivering large volumes of air. If you only have a few shutters, you might consider the spray cans of CoverStain, primer which is rated for exteriors. This is a quick dry oil primer. One trick I always use by spray cans is to heat the cans by putting it in hot water as hot as it comes out the faucet ( about 125 degrees). This increases the pressure in the can so that it sprays better. Being an oil product, the viscosity of the primer is also lowered, so that the l.ighter liquid simply sprays better.

Regarding mayo, the ingredients used to make this condiment are veggie oil (any type will do), egg yolks and acids such as vinegar and lemon juice. Egg yolks are often used in home hair treatments to strengthen and moisturize hair. It is thought that the combination of oil, egg yolk and acid (as found in mayo) work together to condition and restore moisture to the hair. I tried it many years ago, and while it left my hair shiny and silky, it also took many shampooings to get it out and left my hair feeling kind of limp and oily. How well it works probably depends on what type of hair each individual has. Eggs used alone as hair treatments are broken down like this - egg whites treat oily hair, yolks moisturize dry, brittle hair and using the entire egg is used as a general conditioner. To use a yolk or a whole egg, whisk and apply to wet hair and leave in for 1 - 3 minutes. Rinse well with cool water. To use whites, separate from yolk, mix with a couple of tablespoons of oil and beat until foamy. Apply to damp hair. Use your fingers or a comb to distribute thoroughly thru hair and leave on for 20 minutes. Rinse with cool water. WalnutCreek, I hope you are feeling better every day and that, among these many good ideas, you find a solution that restores your hair to it's original condition. Best of luck!