No need to upgrade kitchen cabinet boxes from MDF to plywood, right?
itsourcasa
4 years ago
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itsourcasa
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Cabinet Boxes: Particle Board vs. Plywood
Comments (19)I know this is a little late but it may help someone in the future. I work for a cabinet company and our in-house line comes standard with upgraded plywood boxes. See here: http://www.citycabinetcenter.com/lotus-cabinetry.shtml AND they are on the lower scale in price. The drawback is they are 'what you see is what you get' (color & style). So if you shop around you may find some like these or if anyone is in San Diego come visit us! I hope you like your new kitchen! Here is a link that might be useful: City Cabinet Center...See MoreCabinets - do you know about alder and MDF vs plywood box
Comments (16)Something I left off of my last post to another thread similar to this one only asking about Kraftmaid. There are truly differences in the types of each. I would choose furniture grade board over Chinese plywood for instance. I have not checked yet to see if the all ply Mid C cabinets I'm looking at are chinese plywood. Likely they are cause the price is so low! Anyway we missed this at the home expo in March, but my sales guy told me they were there and had a goldfish bowl with both plywood and furniture board soaking for 2 weeks. They displayed it at the expo inviting everyone to try to break the furniture board, and no one could do it. The plywood was a total mess. It just depends. Whatever you get make sure it's the best quailty and I would think you'll be fine. I noticed for instance that the KM furn board was thicker and appeared to be better quality than the Mid C furniture board....See MorePlywood vs engineered wood cabinet boxes
Comments (6)Couple of small things - take them or leave them as you like. It's always good to remember that we don't know what you mean, have never seen your house, never seen enough measurements and are mostly guessing! It would be better to always have the ref in the position shown in the second drawing. Counterdepth is just about never counterdepth - the refs are mostly 28" to 30" deep. Either drawing could have almost 48" of pantry in various configurations opposing the peninsula. With a 48" wide pantry, you could consider decreasing the depth to 18" (use tall bath cabinets) or even 12" deep and assemble it out of wall cabinets. Or use full depth bases under almost to the counter wall cabinets - leaving just enough space for favored canisters or a drawer underneath. Altho I would happily use deep rollouts if I didn't have any other choice for a pantry, they aren't my favorites and in this case would also block the aisle. I think the doors would not only block a person trying to enter, but also block them from trying to close the rollouts to be able to close the door. I would seriously consider trimming another 3 inches from the peninsula if I didn't lower the depth of the opposing pantry. It's hard to have somebody cruising the pantry without completely blocking the aisle. I would flip the dishwasher to the other side of the sink. When people clean up at the same time others may be cooking, that particular position is annoying. In this kitchen, I'd likely try to prep on the sink side of the range. Just personal taste and ways of working, I'd likely use an angled base in the corner plus slide the range a bit more towards the doorway - like use a 18"-24" cabinet where the first drawing has a 33". In my eyes, I'd have a place to work and a place to "pile up" ingredients ready to go and those that haven't been prepped on either side. The peninsula would be too far away for me to use daily, but a good place for the coffee pot, toaster etc. I am trying and failing to understand why 3" can't be added. But the window wall lengths in the drawings are different by 11 inches. That's definitely something to investigate. I also don't understand the concern about the length of space from the peninsula to the dining room....See More"Semi-custom" Cabinets - MDF / Plywood dilemma, conflicting advice
Comments (17)This has been discussed longer than I've been around here. (more than a decade) First you are much more likely looking at furniture board-aka particle board than MDF. The vast majority of cabinets do NOT use MDF but an enormous number of KD's, salesman, even contractors will refer to it as MDF. (but depending on type of each they would be on practically equal footing with particle having an edge over most of what is actually used for MDF in cabinets-there are over 100 variations for each) I currently only have one brand of frameless cabinets that offers Particle Board- they also offer ply and every other brand I have at the moment uses plywood sides. I went to great lengths to get that brand specifically for the particle board option. What I tell my customer- once you are at the middle price point, top end at the box store (Kraftmaid, Shuler...) there is no point in paying for plywood except: on exposed ends if that is what it takes to get veneer, and sometimes for shelves greater than 30" wide that will be VERY heavily loaded. So I'm telling them that when they go shopping somewhere else they should be looking at a less expensive options than some of what I have. When I worked at a place that had more particle board options available I told people exactly the same thing. I used to post the physical stats from the National Plywood Association for both- for all but bending under load, particle wins. Search back a few years if you want to see those. My own kitchen is particle board frameless because that is what I wanted and fit my budget. If I were to spend more I would not burn $$ just to be able to say I have plywood. There are far more important aspects to cabinets quality than "pepsi or coke" ply or furniture board. AND once you have settled on a price point there is more to picking who you work with than which brand-who provides it for you counts for more. As to the cabinets themselves- the most important aspect of a middle of the road or better brand is customer service and QC, finish is next, methods of construction and volume come in there (how rushed are the people on the glue line is my favorite thing to see when evaluating a brand- a really accurate indicator of how things will turn out in the long run). Jakuvall...See MorePPF.
4 years agoitsourcasa
4 years agoThe Kitchen Abode Ltd.
4 years agoPatricia Colwell Consulting
4 years agoThe Kitchen Abode Ltd.
4 years agoitsourcasa
4 years agoThe Kitchen Abode Ltd.
4 years agoitsourcasa
4 years agoThe Kitchen Abode Ltd.
4 years agoitsourcasa
4 years agoDebbi Washburn
4 years agoitsourcasa
4 years agoci_lantro
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoA T@Home
4 years agoA T@Home
4 years agoA T@Home
4 years agoThe Kitchen Abode Ltd.
4 years agoitsourcasa
4 years agoci_lantro
4 years agoThe Kitchen Abode Ltd.
4 years agoP McG
4 years ago
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