Wow!! What an immense amount of arrogance!! This is why self-proclaimed 'experts' are usually to be avoided or at the very least, their info approached with a large degree of caution. You are so wrapped up in you own self importance to completely ignore what I might have posted. If you care (or even bother) to read more carefully, I did acknowledge the presence of psyllids in my very first post. I am also a practicing consulting horticulturists - not at all an "Internet only" person - and I am actively engaged on a daily basis diagnosing plant issues. I do this for a living!! I am very familiar with boxwood - apparently much more so than you as the self proclaimed expert are - and have encountered all manner of boxwood issues. If.....and I mean if.....leafminers are present, they are not present in any large numbers or the damage would be far more obvious.....as it is with the mites. "You started arguing without possessing much love and experience with boxwood. That`s your big issue. Be careful on such discussion because you can meet real professional . I am not going to teach you for free here and maintain this discussion." Again, wow!! You have no idea what experience or knowledge I might have with this plant or just how much of a professional I might be. I have openly shared my background and experience whereas you just claim yours with nothing to substantiate. And what is the title of this book you supposedly authored?? Perhaps it is the type of scientific research and detailed plant morphology that we could all benefit from. Or maybe it is just another unsubstantiated bold Internet claim...... btw, I have already been taught by a lot of very skilled academic minds. That's what a college degree will do for you :-) I certainly don't require your half-a**ed instructions!!

I can't stand the semantical games played with stone. It looks natural, however, if you can feel it, it's gonna catch crud. When it does, it will become contaminated and more pronounced. Since they've filled it with epoxy, although I don't know how you'd get epoxy thin enough to penetrate, maybe they can abrade it to flush. Good luck; I wouldn't worry about it.

I agree that it isn't his job to re-engineer old cabinets, but it is his job to make me aware of the situation so I can hire a contractor to fix it before he installs it if that's what is required to do it so the countertops are long-lasting, and if it's not something he wants to do himself. He didn't tell me whether they were level or not when making his template for cutting. Also, unfortunately, I know very little about granite countertop installation and had no idea this was a potential issue to be aware of. The cabinet boxes are not as old as the house, but there are plenty of oddball things in the house. They were installed within the past ten years- the last owner did a layout change in the kitchen. The contractor I hired to do all of the other work in the house took a look before he left today and said he would add more shims, and that it probably should have at least had more wood added for the countertop to sit on. I really like the gentleman who owns the granite shop. It's pretty clear they are hard working and small, family owned. I'm sure he did the best with what he has available. I just wish I had known beforehand, and I would have asked our renovator/contractor to adjust the cabinets so they were level.

I put these stainless gap fillers on either side of my range, they look fine and protect the counters. Bonus no crumbs go down the sides! https://www.amazon.com/Countertop-Kitchen-Between-Counter-Stainless/dp/B09JFHT2Y8/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=CGRO2PDOW1A3&keywords=stainless+steel+counter+trim&qid=1644767192&sprefix=Stainless+steel+counter,aps,88&sr=8-2-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE1MTQ3OVQ5U1NXQTgmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA0ODk4NjYxUTZDQ1RaWElaRzdZJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwNDExNjMxTVdNUkNRM0E5NUpKJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1