debris in duct from construction
home2518
4 years ago
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ci_lantro
4 years agoRelated Discussions
duct taping joints of ducting from furnace throughout
Comments (11)I would use mastic and a chip brush to apply. I would seal all of the returns and supply vents. The time you waste will pay you back in $$$$ and comfort. The more you seal other things like pipe runs and where wires come up into the house and into the attic area the less air you will not waste time heating and cooling. I would have to say for the average builder if you spent an extra $1,000.00 in sealants and time (yours or the builder's) it would probably pay itself back in less than 5yrs. This is talking going beyond what quite a few other builders do. I have a quote in front of me for sealing things that I am doing myself after the 'builder thought it was a waste' home was built. If these things were done at the time of building it might have cost an extra weeks labor and less than $1,000.00 materials. Seal returns in walls and floor joists $400.00 seal around baseboard trim (remove and reinstall and paint) on outside walls $3,000.00 wrap and seal supply ducts $1,840.00 Seal recessed lights $75ea x14 add one 6x30 return in hall wall $800.00 Doing this after the home is completed is a total pain in the rear compared to taking a little time and doing it at the time of the build. It might seem to be a waste of his time or money but he isn't the one that will be paying the utilities. I would say from the sounds of this guy that you might be best to do some research on the net and ask us and others what to do and how to do it cause I doubt he cares to do it right. Best of luck,...See MoreDebris under lawn - yellow spot
Comments (4)" can’t get any deeper than about 2 inches in these dead spots - so obviously there is some debris (prob from construction) underneath which isn’t letting the grass root properly. " It's also not necessarily debris or compaction, it could be deflocculated soil or a greasy soil as well. Yeah. Seriously. Try searching for soap mixes. Yeah. I'm serious....See MoreDiscarding of Construction Debris
Comments (14)Nothing worse than doing a project and finding debris buried by the previous owner. Seriously! Except in my situation, it's not the previous owner, it's the tract builder who did it, and it frustrates my gardening. Ugh. (Not to mention the holes all over the yard because a certain dog could smell *everything* at least six inches under the sod, and dug up discarded trash and anything else she deemed treasure-hunt-worthy. lol)...See MoreSanity Check on single 9" duct for Master Bedroom? (vs two 7" ducts)
Comments (26)"What you want then is a zone system with controls dedicated to putting the air & controlling the system how you intend to." This is an example of prescription without any analysis. First, the home is already subdivided into two zones, each served by its own HVAC system. The system which heats and cools the master suite also serves the exercise and laundry rooms. Taken together, these rooms are roughly 1/3 of the total heating and cooling load of the home. Assuming the manual J calculations are correct, the master suite makes up 65% of the cooling load of the system with the laundry and exercise rooms making up the balance. Unless the OP is taking in laundry on the side, the occupants will spend the majority of the time in the master suite vs. the laundry and exercise room. Simply locating the thermostat in the master bedroom will provide temperature control in the master suite--and for 2/3 of the load on the system. Sub zoning this system would enhance temperature control of the laundry and exercise room. The former is a room no one wants to spend time in, and the latter is one that involves intentional sweating. In terms of energy conservation, the OP would be investing in zoning to fine tune less than 12% of the home's heating and cooling load. That's a recommendation that should go in the trash can (to help ensure it's not one that gets recycled.) The design issue is supplying the required amount of conditioned air to the master bedroom for heating and cooling and introducing it in a way that provides proper mixing to avoid both stagnation and drafts. That's not a manual J issue, that's what manual D and manual T are for. Given the geometry of the master bedroom, I think introducing conditioned air at two points with the return on the other end of the room will provide better comfort. The HVAC designer should be able to compare that configuration with the single supply so the OP can make an informed choice before spending an additional $500....See Moreweedmeister
4 years agoUser
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agohome2518
4 years agoMichael
4 years agoci_lantro
4 years ago
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