duct taping joints of ducting from furnace throughout
pooja_nagpal
15 years ago
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doobzz
15 years agoRelated Discussions
Verifying the quality of furnace install and duct work. How?
Comments (2)With regard to finding leaks, you can use a home made 'tell tale' to find them. Take a dowel (about a yard long) and tape a 1" strip of facial tissue to one end. Use it to probe every joint (supply AND return). The leaks will be very apparent. Don't forget the tops of trunks where there are takeoffs or joints. Other things which would indicate a good (better) installation: Did they make any changes to the duct system? After installing the hardware, did they start up the unit, and more importantly, take temperature measurements into sheet metal areas? Same goes for using gauges to test static pressure. Did your paperwork include a record of the testing, with results? Most important: How was the sizing determined? Did they replace like with like, or was a heat calculation done? Post model numbers of new, and size/age/mfg of old. V...See MoreWet duct insulation from Hurricane Sandy - need advice
Comments (7)I would not use the reflectix. I agree that it is poor in performance compared to the duct wrap as previously suggested. However, you know you are in for it again, unfortunately. How many times do you intend to do this? Two products I'd look at for replacing your current system would be a Rinnai Energysaver wall furnace and/or look at the minisplit heat pumps. No duct work. The interior evaporators will be mounted high on the wall and unless the whole first floor is under water you will not be faced with this hassle/expense/replacement. Stick with the top brands of mshp. Fujitsu, Mitsubishi or Daikin. I have Fujitsu's in my home as well as the Rinnai'. very comfortable and very efficient....See MoreInsulating Ducts, installing in-duct humidifier-please advise
Comments (7)-We feel the home is very dry hence the unfortunate necessity. I can honestly say I've never felt like this before. We wake up with dry throat, dry eyes and lips, etc. It wasn't like that at my folk's home ;) Plus with all our wood flooring, I think some humidity is needed. To comment on what's been said so far, thankfully, NONE of the ductwork is flex. It's all that tin/metal tubing. So first, as you described, I would seal all the joints, then wrap them with some sort of radiant heat insulating sheet. (That was what I saw at Lowes.) Any other recommendations on what to wrap them with? The furnace is pretty accessible. I was actually looking at a Honeywell model and considering mounting it just as you described, with the bypass on the cold air return and warm air unit on the hot air. In fact, I'm gonna take a photo now.... "A" is where I was going to install the drum, "B" is the return where I figured the bypass duct would go and "C" is the furnace. Did I tag that correctly? Oh, and B is where there was an old humidity humidistat that was removed and simply replaced with duct tape. I only saw the plate type humidifers at Home Depot. Tell me more about the drum type. And please let me know any recommendations on what models to get. THe home is small, about 1300 squ feet. Any recommendations on brands, etc? Here is a link that might be useful:...See MoreDuct isolation - Leaking
Comments (4)"Wouldn't the most efficient way be to have the heat go to the house and just convect into the room at will. " The most efficient way would be to deliver the heat (or cooling) the space requires from a correctly sized vent. That said, if the heater is dumping direct heat into the room is likely well over what is required for the space (there is a reason the room is hot). I have seen multiple customers over the years who had a large unfinished basement and a single gas heater. Once they sealed all the ducts the basement become colder than desired (one had some freezing problems with pipes running adjacent to the rim joist) and they then had to cut in a vent for the basement. Sounds like you will not have this problem in the smaller room....See Morepjb999
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