Hardwood Kitchen floors to match oak cabinets
Candy
4 years ago
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shirlpp
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Anyone install hardwood to match existing hardwood?
Comments (1)Of course the easiest way to do what you want to do is to install a different width in the kitchen and use something to act as a transition between the two floors. If the kitchen section will be at the same finished height and you can and want to weave new into the old, then you will have to have oak milled to your 2 1/2" size. Not impossible, but will cost more than factory runs at the usual widths. I don't have pics for you, so I hope someone does and can post them for you....See MoreMatching cabinets to hardwood flooring?
Comments (5)Gosh, unless you're in an unusual housing market, it's generally better to not do anything and offer money for new floors since potential buyers might prefer carpet or even tile. Not everyone loves wood floors. I'm not even sure it makes financial sense. You'd have to do the math with realistic numbers but I doubt any tax credit would make up for the expenditure and increased sale price. Incidentally, exotic wood floors are a huge turn-off for me for environmental reasons. Wouldn't be attracted to that any more than an exotic fur coat....See MoreWhat cabinets go with natural oak hardwood floors?
Comments (1)Someone here has pictures of their natural red oak floors and their quartersawn white oak cabinets. It was a beautiful contrast!! Hopefully she will post to this thread because I can't remember who it was. I did the opposite...quartersawn white oak floors and stained red oak cabinets. Quartersawn oak is more expensive, but has a very different appearance and grain. It really doesn't even look like oak, except for the tone and color of the wood....See MoreWhat LVP matches this hardwood white oak floor?
Comments (11)The 'change' is not in opinion...it is in YOUR location. The original concept for THAT poster = slab above grade. Yours is BELOW grade. Gluing down is always a risk below grade. We MUST assume your slabs vapour barrier has been breached. MUST. It is the ONLY safe way to approach this. Your sales person is doing her job. She has experienced the difference between a glue down (over well prepared concrete) vs a floating floor that was POORLY prepared. Yes. There is a difference. The DIFFERENCE in 'feeling' is in the 'proper' vs. 'poorly' prepared concrete. A well prepared subfloor = a solid feeling floor. Always. That adds a huge amount of cost to your project for a glue down option. You would need to add in $3-$5/sf for concrete SEALING...and then you start dealing with the installation/floor prep costs. A glue down vinyl is top of the table...yep. It is what gets 40-50 years out of a floor. The COST is staggering. The adhesive adds another $2/sf to the cost of the floor....especially below grade. And yes, any slab that has even 1" of it below the surface of the ground means the ENTIRE THING is considered 'under ground' = below grade. That's how it is supposed to be looked at. If you do not want the chemicals, then go with floating. Remember: your concrete must be flat....that can add $3/sf to prepare. And you need a vapour barrier (10mil polyethylene sheeting) and then the vinyl can be put down. A floating floor = more expensive to purchase but cheaper to install (all the way around). Your sales person may not be educated in MOISTURE mitigation. Even a single course on moisture mitigation (4 hours) will illuminate her and would allow her to understand a glue down floor vs. a glue down BELOW grade. Two very different beasts....See MoreCandy
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