Wires (low voltage?) in basement
4 years ago
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- 4 years ago
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Comments (7)Thank you, David and brickeyee! I know I can always count on your expertise. I have another question: Leviton magnetic dimmers vs. lutron magnetic dimmers. There are quite a few brands of magnetic low voltage transformers listing Lutron magnetic dimmers as their approved dimmer, but not leviton magnetic dimmers. I specifically asked Juno whether their magnetic transformer works with other brands of magnetic dimmer, for example, leviton. Their answer is "Unfortunately, at this time, we do not have any Leviton dimmers approved for use with the magnetic TL575 driver. " So basically no information there. I can see leviton is not listed myself! One of things I learn from this forum is that a magnetic dimmer should work with a magnetic transformer. Any reason why I shouldn't use a Leviton magnetic dimmer with a Juno magnetic transformer? Lutron is much more expensive than Leviton, what I am trading off by using a less expensive leviton? I am going to post this as a sperate posting just in case you don't see this....See MoreIn-wall Wiring For Low Voltage Undercabinet Lights
Comments (2)That is a question best addressed by your local building inspector. If the inspector takes the wording in the NEC literally, then you are out of luck using the sleeve. You should take the data sheet to the inspector & get his/her position clarified before starting work. However, you can use the Romex without using boxes. I haven't heard of any inspectors that require a box to make the transition from low voltage cable to romex....See MoreLow voltage wiring - can I do it myself?
Comments (8)Hi, When we built my house I asked the electrical guys to put in Wall plates for CAT6 (dual, one for ethernet, one for phone) at each point. Then bring all the home runs into the basement with plenty of slack. You can do the CAT6 stuff yourself, but the most difficult bit is you need to do it in a timely manner. I.e. you need to get all that wiring done while the sheet rock walls are open. Remember on a build, time is money. If you throw off your GC's schedule there is a knock on effect. A 4 month delay is going to hit you on interest and cost overun charges. I would get the contractor people to: 1) Put in the home run CAT6, x2 per point 2) Put in Coax for TV, x2 per point 3) Put in Coax to the roof (for possible Satalite dish) 4) Put in Coax to the roof (for possible Antenna) You can then mess about with the home runs and your rack of equipment in your basement after you move in. The home theater bit is more tricky. You need to put in lots of cables for that TV. Also these cables have finite length. 30 feet is like very long for an HDMI cable. While you have your walls open put in: 1) HDMI cables x2, from TV to cabinet 2) RGB cables x2, from TV to cabinet 3) L-R Audio pairs x4, from Tv to cabinet 4) Coax where the TV will sit to basement 5) Coax where the Video recorder will sit to basement 6) Video, x1 from TV to cabinet 7) S-Video, x1 from TV to cabinet 8) Power points with Surge supressor socket in wall at TV 9) 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick piece of plywood where you want your TV to be. A big piece, and secure this to your wall studs and place behing the sheet rock. Those TV's are heavy, especially if you want a swing out articulated mount. That is alot of cables. Avoid Monster cables which are a rip off. I got all my cables from Pacific Cable. Prices and service I found to be good and the cables work fine. I recomend alot of cables because once you put up that sheet rock, you are done, no chance to change. For complete home theater you also need sound. I did not have speaker wires put in. So am not that much of an expert in that area. I would say that ticker is better and fortunately fairly long runs are OK. You need to figure out where your speakers should be though and plan accordingly. Other low voltage wiring includes, Alarm, Smoke, Carbon monoixide detectors. recommend you get ADT / Brinks or someone like that to ensure it is up to code, and will interface OK to their monitoring station. Finally there is the door bell... which I would leave to your carpenter. So that you have a nice looking finished look. Wiring is easy. Mounting nicely etc. more difficult. Hope this is useful. Best, Mike. Here is a link that might be useful: http://www.pacificcable.com/...See MoreLow Voltage Wiring for Undercabinet Lights
Comments (5)Concelaed LV wiring must be an 'approved method' and NM would fall into this group. It can also get expensive very quickly since LV lighting uses much higher currents than 120 V lighting, and is very sensitive to voltage drop (dropping a few volts on 120 V does not have nearly the same affect on light output and color as dropping on a 12 V system). It can become a real task to both handle the large conductors and than connect reliably and safely to the individual light conductors. I would encourage you to check out individual smaller supplies that accept 120 V inputs and support 60 W of 12 V load per supply. They are small enough to be mounted on the bottom of cabinets and then the rules for wiring are easier since nothing is concealed in the structure....See More- 4 years ago
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