More Gardenia help...yellow leaves
scapergirl (7a DE)
4 years ago
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scapergirl (7a DE)
4 years agoscapergirl (7a DE)
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Indoor gardenia shedding leaves and growing more!
Comments (5)Thanks for your input, Dave. When I first got the gardenia, it was extremely hard to water. I watered it and the water spilled straight out the hole at the bottom, yet the soil stayed dry. So I soaked it much like you suggest. That did help renew the absorption of the soil, but eventually, the same problem came back. So, I do think the soil it is in has something to do with the troubles my gardenia has been having. I should also mention that I had tiny black flies around it and some leaves had small holes. I started handpicking the flies, but it was impossible to get rid of them all, although I managed to keep the population down to just a few. Now that the plant is showing new growth, there are no flies around it anymore. This is a great mystery to me as I did not do anything to fix the fly issue except for handpicking them. I think the light level in that window is already optimal for a gardenia kept as a houseplant. It is quite close to full sun as the only sun that doesn't shine through it is the sinking evening sun. As for humidity, I believe we have a balanced atmosphere, not humid but not dry either (probably around 50%). Does the gardenia need more wet than that? And if so, do you think misting could fix it? I am training it now to live on only one watering per day. So far so good. I still give it as much water but in one big dose and not two small ones. But I think that the soil is wrong and the waterings will never really achieve their goal. The plant does have slight buildup/deficiency symptoms (two-tone leaves). I have been using tapwater that stayed on the counter for a day to let the chlorine evaporate, but it isn't enough as there is also fluoride in the water which doesn't evaporate. So your guess about salt buildup sounds very plausible to me. Do you know if there is anything I can do to correct this? Obviously, I would have to change the soil, but the new soil would also be prone to buildups after a while, right? I am thinking it may be a good idea to transplant it and sacrifice the half-dozen buds it has now. Better to go without flowers for a little while than lose the plant out of fear for the flowers... I have an eight-inch clay pot. Would that be large enough? Also, since this is a plant that likes humidity, wouldn't it be better off in plastic? Thanks again for your help. P.S.: I also have an orchid in the same window, the kind that likes to be root-bound. The leaves are pretty (no browning at the tips) and it is blooming twice as much as when I bought it. I believe orchids like more or less the same conditions as gardenias. So, if the orchid is doing great in that environment and the gardenia is not doing that great, my guess is that the problems it has been having are not related to heat, light and humidity, but rather to the soil, the water and/or the pot. Does that make sense?...See MoreHelp: yellow/whitish shades on senetti pericallis leaves
Comments (2)An indoor plant that's put outdoors into full sun will scorch/burn. The damaged tissue won't recover. If you want it outdoors, you will need to gradually expose it to outdoor conditions - i.e.: harden it off. This post was edited by jean001a on Mon, May 5, 14 at 1:14...See MoreRescue orchid help: yellow leaves after repotting
Comments (8)I have several of these dendrobiums and usually find if they yellow immediately, it's the stress from the transplant. Were the roots in good shape and did you soak the media for a while before transplanting? I know they hate being cold and I live in Michigan so in the summer I place them in a sheltered area outside but have to bring them in before any of the other orchids in the fall. I've found mine seem to do better in a type of stone media rather than bark for some reason. I have them in pots with a lot of drainage holes in the sides and bottom. Old canes will die off and turn brown eventually but still give nourishment to the new parts of the plant so I leave them alone and don't cut them off. Not the prettiest with old canes thrusting out in all directions but they always bloom every year and sometimes twice a year. My oldest one is probably about 12 years old....See MoreHelp- yellow leaves
Comments (3)The "white mold" and curling leaves you see look like powdery mildew, which is a fungal type infection roses can suffer from. Its usually linked to temperature or bad airflow; spring and late autumn are when the temperature is just right for PM to flourish, but some varieties of roses are just more susceptible than others. I dont grow any drift roses myself, but according to the comments on Help Me Find Roses, some of the drift varieties do seem to suffer a bit from mildew.. While PM usually isnt enough to actually kill a rose, it can be made pretty unhappy; the yellow leaves may be a sign the plant is dropping any older leaves so it can conserve energy to deal with the attack ( looks like you have a few buds that may be about to drop off/abort too). Not sure where in the world you live, but just going on what I am familiar with- It looks like you have a few other plants in the near vicinity- how much air circulation is there? how many hours direct sunlight do the roses get? Just asking because it looks like one rose is right next to a very healthy looking hydrangea- in my yard, hydrangeas tend to fry and dry out with the amount of sun roses would need... Also looks like you have some larger type trees behind- could their root systems be interfering with the rose?...See Morescapergirl (7a DE)
4 years agoscapergirl (7a DE)
4 years agoMeyermike(Zone 6a Ma.)
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoscapergirl (7a DE) thanked Meyermike(Zone 6a Ma.)scapergirl (7a DE)
4 years agoscapergirl (7a DE)
4 years agoMeyermike(Zone 6a Ma.)
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoscapergirl (7a DE) thanked Meyermike(Zone 6a Ma.)scapergirl (7a DE)
4 years agolast modified: 4 years ago
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