It appears to be a carpenter's mistake since the intention of the design is clearly stated on the drawings. Perhaps the windows were installed before the door arrived. IMHO there is no reason to replace anything other than the narrow "picture frame" molding; it's really out of place here. Option A (cheapest) Raise the door head trim and find a way to fill the resulting gap. I would also fill the gap between the door and window jamb trims because these narrow strips of wall look amateurish to me. Option B (best) Use 3/8" or 1/2" flat trim that spans from opening to opening, then add a decorative band molding around the outer perimeter of the entire assembly. The flat part of the trim would be a bit larger at the door head but it would look fine since it's at a door not a window. If the carpenter is good he could add a cove, bevel or bead at the inner edges. That is the way triple openings have been detailed for hundreds of years so I'm surprised the architects or the builder didn't suggest it.

Noellabella, I click my car starter at my front door when I'm tired. At least it gives me a laugh at the end of the day! I wanted to tell you how fun and cheerful your kitchen looks. I've recently been bitten by the painting bug. Even to the point of taking my first day off for myself since I went to the dentist 8 months ago. I took an ASCP class and am excited. I've got over 150lf of cabinetry to paint, let alone some God-awful furniture that takes on new life after paint. Have fun with this and love it. Your kitchen is fabulous!

In my renovation/addition, I'm paying for those things, too. Here's a sample, not including installation. 12x12 kitchen: Kitchen cabinets $22k (includes installation and hardware, local custom cabinetmaker -- third kitchen he's done for me) White painted shaker with soft-close, dovetail joints, three corners with super susans, pull-out double trash, etc. Marble countertops $5k, installed Shaw's original farm sink $1200 Roll Allia prep sink (can't remember) Kohler Artifact pull-down faucet for both sinks. around $500 each in polished nickel. Thermador built-in French door fridge, dw, 36" dual fuel range; 600 cfm hood = $16k Tile for master bath, vestibule, backsplash, laundry - $5500 Tile for powder room (marble hex) $400 Tile for sunroom (don't have my notes) Troy Lighting front porch lights $500 each When it comes to fixtures, Wayfair.com is your friend! I ordered Hudson Valley Lights, a Toto Guinevere toilet ($600), Schlage exterior and interior door hardware, Delta and Kohler faucets and so much more with free shipping and a discount. Needed a replacement flap for the toilet right away and they sent it for free. Fabulous service.

If you're set on wood and want minimal maintenance, I'm of the same mind...teak or ipe...and simply let it gray. With a dense wood like that, you'd want large hinges, I'd recommend going with a ball-bearing hinge, I'd recommend four hinges. At least one long screw per hinge leaf. A strong door can still fail with a weak jamb. With the jamb, use long screws to properly catch the framing studs. If the door stop trim is not integral with the jamb, the screws can be hidden behind the applied stop. Make the door stop molding a little larger than typical, if not integral to the jamb, ensure that it is well-fastened to the jamb. Even though wood like teak and ipe can survive with no finish, I do recommend a finish on the door for best longevity. Take a look at Cetol Door and Window. It's a high UV finish, and to renew, it does not have to be taken down to bare wood like many finishes. Clean, a light scuff sand or scuff it with a scotch bright pad, then recoat. It's what I used on my own mahogany front entry door (sheltered) and mahogany balcony hand rails (full sun). It's been five or six years since I built the door and balcony, this year will be the first time I renew the Cetol on the mahogany. Cypress is another wood species to consider, though it would need some sort of finish for UV protection.