Acrylic paints should stick just fine to plastic. Usually when people struggle with painting steel doors, it is because they are not keeping a wet edge. You have to break the door down into sections and when you are working in one section, you can't really get paint outside of that area and then brush back through it minutes later. If you brush through paint that is already starting to set, that is when you will pull at it which will look like hell. Do your panels first and keep the paint in the panels. Then do your horizontals, then the left and right sides. You may want to switch to using a small roller if you struggle with getting the door to look good by painting it with a brush.

About to embark on cabinet finish selection as yourself, I've read some about PCV (post catalytic conversion colorant varnish) which many fine cabinetry manufacturers are now using, a switch typically from a pre-catalytic (and other technique) lacquered varnish finish (non-conversion coating film). The advantage of PCV is a far more durable, UV inhibiting finish (no yellowing) which withstands household chemical cleanup, is hard to scratch, better resists water stains and buys the owner time on a colorant finish. It's higher in solids so it requires less coats (benefit to manufacturer) and in fact a high build of finish (5mil) will make the finish brittle. Most manufacturers don't go over 3mils. Cure time is immediate giving manufacturers an edge up on turnaround/efficiency. The biggest downside to PCV finish however is it's hard to repair, especially on site. The process of building conversion coating films is an irreversible process (there are various types, 2k, acid catalyzed and oil based). No process, including PCV finish is bullet proof. However, the selection of a MDF door and drawer front with PVC apparently is felt to be a leader in the industry for those choosing paint (actually colorant) based finish which lasts. This finish technique is worth discussing w.r.t. to your desire for a mitered door. The alternative and still widely used manufacturer paint finish, pre-catalyzed lacquered varnish, has the great advantage of being repairable. The chemical process is reversible (forms the film by solvent evaporation alone, for example, as using single component lacquers). The film is not normally damaged when re-dissolved, so standard lacquers are easier to repair (on site too). Builds to 3 mils to 5 mils are tolerable (but lower builds are more common, even as low as 1.5 mil by one cabinet maker I recently reviewed). The con to a lacquered finish is the cure time: it takes 3 to 4 weeks (not the same as the stack time), so it takes longer for an order to be properly finished. These points are taken from my notes, and experts will have more knowledge. When it comes to paint (now often called colorant) finish, it is helpful to know about these two techniques and use them to help pick your cabinet doors/drawers product selection (mdf vs plywood) as well as finish technique for longevity with minimal cracking. There is no perfect finish is always worth remembering. Hope this helps.

without seeing the house in toto ... i think the eaves/cieling should stay brown to match the house... but the side walls in the dark brown ... make it look cave like ... but i dont know about the grey green... but it did make me look to the stone work ... and wonder how playing off those grays ... would incorporate the walkway ... into the entry way .. the green... and i understand its not much green ... would be adding another color ... instead of harmonizing.. what is there .. if you played off the brickwork .. i think is would swallow the door with color ... as compared to the way it 'pops' now ... ken

mobuddy89 These days I obsess about what other colors our home would be. There are a few more brown beams in the back of the complex and the same brown trim over the garage doors! If the brown stain doesn't work we could definitely layer with deeper colors! torreykm I think talavera elements could work in our area. I have thought it would be nice to really bring out the Spanish character of the home but in a very updated way? I'll have to peruse Houzz and see whats out there! :) Beth H. Thanks! You know, I looked for a wood "conditioner" and wasn't able to find one at HD, Lowes or Rockler that was exterior grade?! But Rockler recommended the Zinsser Bullseye clear sander coat as a base layer. Its very clear and watery stuff. The UV varnish I picked up is also the Zars exterior UV grade. Wish I'd known about the other products- but will see how the Zars holds up this time around. For sure will take your advice and do no less than 3 coats! Your garden is amazing!!