Leveling a yard (approx 100 sqft)
Sean K
4 years ago
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My Experiences Leveling My Lawn with Sand
Comments (137)Please allow me to explain some facts about the different types of sand. As a contractor and someone who has worked in a concrete plant you better know what type of snd you need for the job you are doing. With that said lets began. Sand is either dug up in a quarry or dredged from a pond, lake or a sand quarry that they hit a spring in and filled with water. All commercial sand is washed so it can be graded for size and type. You have to go out and dig up your own if you want to get unwashed sand ( which is not recommended for landscaping ) to be used as fill sand or what we call sandbox sand. First thing to fall out of the washer is mason sand. Next is concrete sand followed by fill sand which contains some clay. Next is gravel base and is made-up of lots of clay and small gravel.This is what you typically find on ball diamonds and clay tennis courts or as a base for a gravel driveway or path through your garden. It can be packed down so hard you would think it was concrete with a colored dye in it untill it rains. Dogs, cats, kids and husbands get in quite a bit of trouble when it rains because of this stuff. Next is pea gravel. This can be used to cover the gravel base or partly fill holes like lateral lines where you need good drainage or placed under downspouts to keep the water from making a canyon of you lawn and it gives it a decorative look. Just remember to use something to keep the gravel in place or your mower becomes a machine gun when you mow around It. A lot of people use it in flower beds and around the base of trees too for decorative look. Rock gardens look neat and pea gravel mixed with river rock works well for this. Next comes river rock. Used as I just mentioned in place of the pea gravel ecept not on lateral lines or sewer pipes or any other underground lines and pipes. Although it does work well for drip irrigation or soaker hose. Then the last is river stone. Good for decorative landscaping and filling in wash outs or anywhere you need the water not to erode the ground beneath them....See MoreAutumn Prep for Spring Leveling?
Comments (7)Okay perfect. That's exactly what I suspected. You said red lava sand. The red threw me off. There is nothing wrong with lava sand. Whether it conveys ANY of the features promoted on that website is conjecture in my opinion. Well, it is paramagnetic, but whether paramagnetism is of any value is not very well demonstrated. One of the old timer paramagnetism skeptics was K Chandler, the founder of the Texas Plant and Soil Lab. He eventually started testing soils for paramagnetism and reluctantly admitted to me that it seemed to be present in the Texas farm soils with higher productivity. That's not exactly a ringing endorsement, but it tells me there is something to it. Quite often when someone tries one of the more esoteric "organic" materials and gets great results, those great results are more properly attributed to changes to proper watering, mowing, and regular feeding. Simply paying more attention to the lawn usually squares things away. Mixing sand with compost may work. I'm not familiar with anyone who has tried it. Compost has the remarkable feature of adding exactly zero long term volume. But when it is used it definitely adds volume...until it disappears. I'm just trying to think it through what would happen if you had deep holes to fill. I'm thinking you would go back to bumpy but a lot less bumpy. So I'm thinking pure sand is better. Certainly sand is much less expensive than any mix. Don't fret about getting the organic matter up in your soil. That will happen with deep roots and the occasional organic fertilizer. If you are going to fertilize monthly with chemicals, you can add Milorganite or any other organic fertilizer at least once per year to keep your soil tuned up. The concern with heavy chemical fertilizer use is exhausting the soil microbes. Feeding them some organic fertilizer occasionally will really help. The more often the better, but bermuda can really use all the chemical N you can throw at it....See MoreNew yard with woods, slopes, red clay, & water- help!
Comments (7)Two suggestions - consider investing in a landscape design. Having a professional walk the property and look at all the factors (e.g., drainage patterns, sun/shade patterns) and evaluate your landscaping goals, etc. can be well worth the price of the plan ($200-400). This could save you a lot of planting mistakes, wasted effort and help you see some issues that no one on the internet will be able to spot. Also consider incorporating some native plants into your design/choices. Especially on the fringes of your wooded areas to create a more natural transition. Plus native plants support the ecosystem that you're moving into and attract the natural insects and birds that your kids would love to observe as they play outside (I'm not talking about biting, stinging insects - you'll get those no matter what you plant; these are caterpillars and butterflies and moths that will be attracted - think Monarch butterflies that only eat milkweed, same concept). Also problem areas like poor drainage and wet sloping areas to a low area have perfect native plant solutions and believe me that willow is not the only one. Native plants can be beautiful, have flowers, great fall color and be treated just like non-native plants in a landscape. As far as planting next to the property line, remember that anything that hangs over the line can be trimmed by your neighbor (the part that is on his property, that is). Research the mature width of a plant and then divide that number by 2 to get the distance from any line or wall for planting. Recognize that the weather is warming up and that anything you plant now will need to be watered through the summer - fall is the best time to plant trees and shrubs. Get a plan now, plant only as much as you feel you can keep up with with, mulch well to retain water and suppress weeds, and plant a lot of annuals this year to enjoy while you get ready for fall. In the meantime, research your desired plants so that you know what you're getting. Even with a plan you may not like everything that the designer chose - I swapped out a few things on mine for plants that liked the same conditions. A plan helped me feel like I had a roadmap and I was able to implement it as my finances and energy allowed....See MoreGMs Announced Five Year (100,000mi) Warranty
Comments (41)I can't help but laugh about the irony of this thread and the one that worm started. Here we are talking about the results of not taking proper care of a car, and his thread is all about intentionally doing just that. There is no magic oil that can be run "forever". "Consumers" at large truly don't know what auto technicians are up against these days, and what the very near future holds. The sad part is, I don't believe a large number of them care about us at all. A few weeks ago I contributed to an article that was in the Pittsburgh Post Gazette written by Don Hammond. Even this article falls short of just what is going on. Yesterday a local bodyshop that buys a lot of totalled cars, and rebuilds them showed uphere with a 2006 Jeep Liberty. This thing had 69 miles on it. He had six things not working correctly. With all of the money I have spent through the years to have tools and equipment, there was nothing that I could do for him, yet. My Chrysler DRBIII (The factory tool, same one the dealers use) does not work on the CAN system. I have $9000 invested in just this one tool. I have to go buy a "Star Scan", or "Star Soft" to have the factory tool to work with this newer Chrysler product. That's another $5000 for just one Chrysler dedicated tool. Then I'd still have to pay for a temporary subscription to the Chrysler factory website for the service information, at $20. for three days. Multiply this situation by virtually every manufacturer out there, except for GM, and you have a good picture of whats going on. More than any other manufacturer, GM provides me with easy access to service information and tools, and parts to help me care for their customers. The $7000 that I have invested in GM specific tools, are the most reasonable expense I have to bear. Honda for instance, as mentioned in this article has their factory tool price around $9000, for less than 3% of the potential work that I can do, and continued subscription for the software is required ($1400/yr) or else the tool turns off! BTW GM is slated to switch to a new tool for the 2009's but will continue to support the Tech II at least until 2015. Toyota is slated to continue to share their platform with GM, at least that is the word that I heard last. Same base tool, just a different software cartridge. Here is a link that might be useful: Post Gazette Article...See MoreSean K
4 years agoSean K
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