Easiest program for whole house floor planning?
Tiffany Niederle Copley
4 years ago
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Fixing an old house floor plan - cross post w/ The Old House
Comments (6)It was NOPSI when I lived in New Oreleans, and in rental shotgun houses...NOPSI claimed a large part of my paychecks! New Orleans has a lot of Energy Raters, the highest concentration in the state actually. Entergy has made use of some of these raters in their efficiency program Energy Smart. here are a couple of links for you to check out: http://www.energysmartnola.info/one-stop-shop/ http://www.energysmartnola.info/for-your-home/ not being in that area anymore, I don't know how this program works..but you can find out if you are interested. my only advice would be to involve yourself with an experienced rater there in N.O. someone with experience in old homes...the newer raters I met may have the training... but couldn't tell gas from electric heat systems, or know how to identify balloon framing. so look for someone who has 10+ years of experience. La. DNR also has list of energy raters state wide, their efficiency incentive program isn't still in effect...but last time I checked the list of active raters was still online. DNR(dept natural resources) provided the training for all of us back in 1999. so they have a good handle on who knows their stuff...and who doesn't. it is hard to see detail in your posted plans. so I'll keep my questions fairly general. my first two concerns are air sealing & hvac system. I know you have a partial ' basement' (LOL) are electrical & plumbing exposed? was there ever a central hvac system installed? if basement isn't full size of house...what access is there to the part of the house without basement? how much room is there between ground & house? 3'...4'....more? is house all electric or is natural gas provided? as to heating...do you have a prefrence? if all electric..then look research heat pumps...great wintertime savings in our area. (I'm south central La these days) have you looked at mini split units? condenser unit outside, individual air handler units that hang on walls in rooms. I can't tell if your layout would work for this or not. is there a space in your home you could make into heating system closet? have you had any hvac companies come out to look at the house yet? involving hvac company never starts too early. it may be that ductwork will need to be installed during the reno. if you can't give up the sq ft for system inside house...I've seen people put the heating system in the 'basement'. quite a few flooded after katrina, but its not an everyday occurrence, and depending upon what part of town your house is located in...flooding is something to consider. I know uptown floods in a hearbeat with heavy rains...but areas like bywater stay dry. the top floor...full attic or are there walls of the living space that are shared with attic space? is attic space large enough to house heating system? air sealing.. there are really two ways to air seal. caulk, backer rods & more caulk which can be diy..or foam insulation. one is inexpensive & time consuming...the other expensive & fast. foam insulating the roofline will be biggest bang for the buck. then putting heat system & ductwork in attic keeps it in a semi conditioned space, so that you don't have ducts to cool the house in a 140 degree attic. by moving air & thermal barriers to roofline, a lot of the air leakage sites in ceilings are depressurized, so that house isn't sucking hot dirty humid attic air into the house to clean, dehumidify & condition when central unit is running. as most of our heat gain/cooling loss is through the ceiling into the attic space creating a tight air barrier, and thermal barrier (insulation) is very important. we use open cell in the attic roofline, depth to equal R-value required ( R-25 for cathedral for example is 6- 6.5" deep) also if house is balloon framed, foam seal at eaves to attic floor will stop air movement in walls. we need to air seal our walls...but insulating walls here isn't high on our list of things to do. foam in walls...is a huge waste of money. the next place for foam is under the floors. here we use closed cell. to keep moisture from ground from being sucked into the house. 2-3" is sufficient. this will also seal bottom of balloon framed walls. I've had issue with some of the foam insulators in N.O., because I am one picky b!tch. unlike most energy raters I oversee install of foam and test for air leakage with foam co on site, so that they can catch any leakage sites then without an added trip. as these companies expand into my area...they don't stay long. over the years I've learned which companies will actually create air tight seals...and who doesn't. and fyi...it isn't always the big companies that do it right. owner/installer companies are more willing to learn how to do it right. and the install of foam, just like the install of the hvac system is the key to the whole thing. ok...there are your questions to answer & things to think about for today. I'll check back after you reply. and think about investing in a blower door test of the house at minimum. this will identify leakage sites that need to be sealed. if you have ductwork, spring for the duct test also. better to know what you have to start with..what you need to do... and have it tested when completed. this way you have a goal to work towards...and an idea of how to do it. best of luck...See MoreFloor plan and elevations review - whole new design
Comments (15)Just some general thoughts from my perspective: - The closet by the front door looks a little short of a 2' minimum to store anything hanging. - The pantry looks like you are trying to squeeze it in just to have one. Maybe re-work the pantry/closet/laundry area. It looks like you have plenty of cabinet space and that extra space in the back of the garage, maybe think about if you really need a pantry. - I am sure it is different for each couple, but the master bath to me needs work. If someone is using it as a shower or using the toilet, they are locking up access to the closet. - That is a lot of windows in the master bath. We have a lot of windows now, with blinds drawn almost all the time (actually we have blinds that come down from the top, so usually have the top 1/4 open most of the time). - Depending on your lifestyle, the master bedroom being adjacent to the family room could be an issue (along with the other two bedrooms down the short hallway). Imagine you have guests over and someone wants to retire to the master or the two downstairs bedrooms. It could be pretty noisy without a buffer area. - For the size of the house, you do not have a powder room on the first floor. If you have guests over, you will need to assure the full bathroom is kept clean. - The location of the fireplace/stove is interesting in the family room. You may want to trial arrange some furniture to see how that works, or potentially make that a corner unit. - The office upstairs has one wall against the large open area. Depending on the situation, could that get noisy? - The office is bigger than most bedrooms. That may be a necessity, but many of us survive in small offices/cubes during the day just fine. Possibly a location to save some space or give it up for other purposes. - As mentioned above, those in the two upstairs bedrooms will parade by the open area when they want to use the bathroom. - The one bedroom and the nook on the second floor share a wall. If the nook is used for TV or other activities, it might be troublesome for the person who resides in the bedroom. - As mentioned in above posts, you are making a trade-off for a complicated design (lots of corners and complicated roof). If you could get rid of a few corners you would probably gain space without it costing any more. - If you are on 10 acres, depending on where you locate the house you may not care about how exactly the exterior looks (as long as you like it and you are not too concerned about resale)....See MoreWhole house wood flooring install.
Comments (16)Luan is a product I have used in the past. Granted that was more than 10 years ago. I have been out of the flipping business that long. I used it as an underlayment for sheet vinyl. I have never used it for wood floor installation. That is why I was asking the question. Times have changed and I wanted some advice on what others are using today. On other sites I have seen people advocate the use of luan, 1/2" T&G plywood, concrete backer board, underlayment that I would only use under floating laminate floors, etc.. This is not my first rodeo. In the past, I have installed over 20 solid hardwood floors. All above ground. Anywhere from thin strip maple to 4" wide brazilian cherry. This is the first time that I have installed engineered flooring. As for the friggin peel and stick tiles. That was meant as a joke. Of course I will be pulling them up. And removing what adhesive I can by sanding, grinding, etc. I have used a 78" level (that being the longest straight edge I have) and the floor is with in tolerances set forth by the manufacturer. I was just trying to see if I could make a smoother surface hiding all the little dings and dents. Not that they would show through the hardwood. As for the existing OSB subfloor, I will be going around and making sure that any hints of a squeak are taken care of. Either from the top, or bottom. If needed, I will use blocking as needed. SJ, as Joseph has said. Luan is NOT OSB. It is plywood. The one I was planning on using was this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/RevolutionPly-5mm-Poplar-Plywood-Application-as-4-x-8/50121135 Also, and please don't be offended by this, but, when using staples to install a floor, or cleats or nails one would expect there to be perforations wouldn't you think? But with the staples pulling the flooring to the sub-floor, it would have a tendency to seal it somewhat. Granted not enough to make it truly a vapor barrier, but enough to help. Since Luan is 5mm thick (about 1/4") why would you think that I would be trying to grab the Luan to install the flooring. The staples needed to install the floor are 1 1/2 inches long. As I had mentioned, the Luan was meant primarily as a smoothing agent. And NOTHING else. As for the silicone paper, the manufacturer specifically requires it when installing over a basement. Joseph, thank you for your delicacy in the way you posed your comment. I will not take offence in your statement as I had not given enough information as to my background. But I will take offence at the way that people assume that those who pose questions are by their very nature inexperienced. Most people who are asking for guidance are hoping that people, both DIYers and PROS alike, will provide that. When I provide a response to peoples post, I typically state that I am not a pro, but I do have experience in doing what they are asking. I may even make a joke and say that I have played one on TV. But, my replies are from my years of experience working on my own projects, asking questions, reading other forums, as well as working with more experienced individuals. I know what I can do, and when I need to hire someone how knows more to help, or to actually do the job. I have acted as my own GC in completing a 150K addition to a former house when the original GC closed up shop. And I completed the job, with ALL inspections passed, permits pulled and signed off, and had more work done than the original scope. So, PLEASE before you assume that the person doesn't know what they are doing, ask them questions. For example, are you doing the work or are you hiring out? Sorry for the long response, but when others assume something without evidence of prior knowledge, I get my hackles riled....See MoreFloor plan advice on whole house remodel
Comments (23)I’ve shared some of your thoughts about how to arrange the kitchen with my husband, and we both feel that leaving the pantry and fridge next to the deck door is what works best for us. As for the laundry, we’ve really been going back and forth about wanting a bigger master bath, and the more spacious laundry area. I would love to keep the laundry near the bedrooms, but I also don’t want the noise on the main floor, and if there was a leak, the basement makes more sense. This house is not made for people who have trouble moving because you have to walk up and down stairs to get to the garage, and the front entrance is up a hill and steps. I think our final decision will come down to cost, since there is a lot of remodeling that already needs to be done, including the deck and yards, so the laundry and bathrooms might not be touched....See MoreTiffany Niederle Copley
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