Luan is a poor underlayment for flooring and widely discouraged for use in that manner.

I am not using it as a true underlayment as it is going directly on the 3/4" OSB subfloor.

But then, you can argue that I am using it as an underlayment. I just want to give a smooth surface so that the wood flooring will slide easier as I install it.

Then use an actual material designed for that purpose.

You install wood floor to run perpendicular to the joists unless you are adding another layer of subfloor. Good luck.

If you have a 3/4” t&g subfloor, you can run your wood any way you want.

Chess, what material would you suggest? I don't want to raise the floor too much. I wasn't planning on ripping out the lower cabinets in the kitchen. And the Island can't be raised as it is screwed down into the floor from places I can't get to anymore.

All the other underlayments at the blue and orange stores aren't meant for nail down wood floors, at least from what I can see.

Luan and all the rest of the kludges just shows that you are dealing with a completely incompetent installer. That’s a $#!¥ sandwich.

Hire a better Pro.

Dan:

I don't want to sound rude, so bear with me please, but the very nature of your questions/statements shows that you are completely out of your league with this project.

Study the flooring manufacturer's installation instructions and follow them to the letter, please.

Luan and staples don't like to mix. Luan is particle board with a new name added to it. Staples need to dig DEEP into the substrate so that they GRAB and HOLD. So long as the staples GRAB and HOLD you will be free from those horrible squeaks.

Now luan doesn't let ANYTHING grab or hold....staples included. Those staples will work loose (because that's what luan likes to do) and you will be left with a squeaky, bouncy wood floor that was completely messed up before it was even installed.

And when installing over plywood (wood or wood-like products such as OSB or even luan) you do NOT need a vapour barrier. And even if you have a vapour barrier the THOUSANDS of puncture marks in the barrier would prove to be MOOT. Imagine shooting a pool liner with buck shot....every 3 feet. Now imagine how much water that pool liner will allow to leak out. Yep. Complete fail.

As Sophie suggests, you have some concerns that require a more professional approach. Removing peel and stick tile is one of them. Adding a substrate (or not) is another. Direction of installation is yet another.

And the subfloor flatness rating is yet another area where greater importance needs to be added. The industry average (just an average....the MANUFACTURER'S recommendations trump everything) is 3mm over 3 meters (1/8" over 10ft). Anything more than that and you need to look at leveling things out.

I'm sorry but the luan and the silicon paper and leaving the tile in place is a recipe for disaster. Please bring in someone who has an understanding of "Best Practices". It will make this job a success.

Luan and particle board are as different as apples and tomatoes.

Luan is a product I have used in the past. Granted that was more than 10 years ago. I have been out of the flipping business that long. I used it as an underlayment for sheet vinyl. I have never used it for wood floor installation. That is why I was asking the question. Times have changed and I wanted some advice on what others are using today.

On other sites I have seen people advocate the use of luan, 1/2" T&G plywood, concrete backer board, underlayment that I would only use under floating laminate floors, etc..

This is not my first rodeo. In the past, I have installed over 20 solid hardwood floors. All above ground. Anywhere from thin strip maple to 4" wide brazilian cherry. This is the first time that I have installed engineered flooring.

As for the friggin peel and stick tiles. That was meant as a joke. Of course I will be pulling them up. And removing what adhesive I can by sanding, grinding, etc.

I have used a 78" level (that being the longest straight edge I have) and the floor is with in tolerances set forth by the manufacturer. I was just trying to see if I could make a smoother surface hiding all the little dings and dents. Not that they would show through the hardwood.

As for the existing OSB subfloor, I will be going around and making sure that any hints of a squeak are taken care of. Either from the top, or bottom. If needed, I will use blocking as needed.

SJ, as Joseph has said. Luan is NOT OSB. It is plywood. The one I was planning on using was this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/RevolutionPly-5mm-Poplar-Plywood-Application-as-4-x-8/50121135

Also, and please don't be offended by this, but, when using staples to install a floor, or cleats or nails one would expect there to be perforations wouldn't you think? But with the staples pulling the flooring to the sub-floor, it would have a tendency to seal it somewhat. Granted not enough to make it truly a vapor barrier, but enough to help.

Since Luan is 5mm thick (about 1/4") why would you think that I would be trying to grab the Luan to install the flooring. The staples needed to install the floor are 1 1/2 inches long. As I had mentioned, the Luan was meant primarily as a smoothing agent. And NOTHING else.

As for the silicone paper, the manufacturer specifically requires it when installing over a basement.

Joseph, thank you for your delicacy in the way you posed your comment.

I will not take offence in your statement as I had not given enough information as to my background.

But I will take offence at the way that people assume that those who pose questions are by their very nature inexperienced. Most people who are asking for guidance are hoping that people, both DIYers and PROS alike, will provide that.

When I provide a response to peoples post, I typically state that I am not a pro, but I do have experience in doing what they are asking. I may even make a joke and say that I have played one on TV.

But, my replies are from my years of experience working on my own projects, asking questions, reading other forums, as well as working with more experienced individuals. I know what I can do, and when I need to hire someone how knows more to help, or to actually do the job.

I have acted as my own GC in completing a 150K addition to a former house when the original GC closed up shop. And I completed the job, with ALL inspections passed, permits pulled and signed off, and had more work done than the original scope.

So, PLEASE before you assume that the person doesn't know what they are doing, ask them questions. For example, are you doing the work or are you hiring out?

Sorry for the long response, but when others assume something without evidence of prior knowledge, I get my hackles riled.

Joseph Corlett, LLC“Luan and particle board are as different as apples and tomatoes“

Yup. I thought that was a strange statement too.

Dan, here are a few suggestions for a better underlayment.

http://www.builderonline.com/products/a-good-underlayment-makes-floors-smooth-stiff_o

SS,

Nothing that would telegraph through the flooring. Just thinks like the bottom of a chair, where the fridge was temporarily, etc. Just being persnickety.

The flooring is 5"wide so it doesn't really matter. I was just wondering if there were any new products or procedures out there that I may not be aware of.

Chess, thanks for the link, I appreciate it. I saw some interesting products. Alas some are no longer in production but it gives me a searching point.

Cork is a wonderful product. I used that on a tiling project over a slab on grade. The floor was extremely cold to walk on. When I put down the 1/4" cork and sealed the joints with foil tape. There were a couple of areas where I didn't have enough cork to fill in fully so I foil taped in what I had. When I stepped on those areas that temperature difference was dramatic. Over the cork I installed an electric in-floor heat and then 16" square tiles. When I sold the house, the new owners said that was one of the things that sold them.

Question for everyone, would an 1/8" layer of cork provide some sound insulation and help smooth out the minor imperfections that would only trouble me? And yes, Luan is no longer in the picture. I have seen the error of my ways. Besides the installation instructions specifically state NOT to use it.

One product that came up and looks interesting is DMX 1 Step. I am thinking of using that in my basement instead of dri-core.

Chef, Since I live in the high rockies, moisture is paramount. Thankfully, I have under-floor radiant heat that is no hotter than 130 out of the on-demand hot water heater. By the time it gets to the floor it is probably around 100 degrees.

Right now, the outside humidity is 18% and the indoor is 27% and it is 93 out. In the winter, the humidity inside can drop to less than 10% so we will be getting another humidifier to help.

Thanks for the reminder.