Applying wood veneer on IKEA vanity side panels
Mittens Cat
4 years ago
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Patricia Colwell Consulting
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoMittens Cat thanked Patricia Colwell ConsultingRelated Discussions
ASAP help needed! Panel ready frig-how to cover side trim?
Comments (19)Thanks all, Circuspeanut- the veneer was just was I was hoping to do. Any ideas how to attach it or make it stick to the trim piece?? Again, my thanks for helping to resolve this. We've now determined that at this point we do need to keep the fridge. Among other things we were having issues with other fridges potentially hitting the handle of the adjacent oven & this one restricts the swing just sufficiently so that should not be an issue. I don't want to trade one problem for another. SO, finding the best solution to covering the black trim is what we've got to do at this point. Thanks again!...See MoreReal wood or wood-look veneered cabinets?
Comments (9)Thanks, very helpful. Especially about noting the warranties. We're looking at a custom guy, too, whose work I've seen and it's good -- but I'd be concerned about warranty issues down the road. Given that we're going with flat slab doors, the kitchen designer will also price out a custom shop, as she thinks it may be price competitive given that we're going with such a simple design. What I'm hearing, though, is that natural wood veneer shouldn't be more susceptible to delamination, chips, peeling, dents, etc. than the fake wood laminate? On the more affordable end, I really like the look of Semihandmade and smile everytime I see my new bath cabinet. And I drool over online photos of Henrybuilt, Kerf, Build LLC's SPD, and others outside our price range. I don't have the same emotional response to the wood look cabinets. Just for ideas, I've been in several of the high end European showrooms, and while they're sleek and well done, it's not the same as real wood. I was going to convince myself to go with the fake wood if it would be more durable, but if I can have real wood (probably walnut or teak, likely grainmatched vertically), that's my preference. Would appreciate any other thoughts or advice, thanks....See MoreTalk to me about applying veneer
Comments (10)I've had good success with PVA glue applied, allowed to dry, and then ironed on. Now I use hot hide glue-- it's more exciting. ;-) If I had to do do a whole kitchen's worth of cabinets I'd set up a vacuum veneer press. See JoeWoodworker.com for how to do it for a reasonable price. I've never seen veneer applied with pressure sensitive adhesive that stayed stuck for more than a few years. Wouldn't touch the stuff. Plus, it stinks. Plus, you only get one shot at laying your veneer in the right place. This is a case where the thing that seems as if it might be the easiest is actually the hardest. I have not had success with commercial edge banding, either put on myself or on purchased cabinets. It seems to perpetually be falling off or getting damaged in ugly ways, so I don't do that any more, using instead solid wood ~1/4" thick on the edges. That way every nick at the edge doesn't show the substrate. In either event I've had the most success trimming with a block plane. Knives like to follow the grain and lead you astray, power tools are overkill and way too easy to go wrong with. A plane is quick and gives you precise control for a cut that needs to be right within a couple thousandth's of an inch. Remember you need to treat both sides of any substrate the same, lest you end up with a potato chip. You don't need to use your fanciest face veneer on the back side, but you need to put a layer on the back if you put one on the front. Veneering solid substrates is tricky, because you need to compensate for differential wood movement. Traditionally on a solid core one would lay one veneer at 45 degree angle to the grain before the finish veneer. You will see this referred to as crossbanding in your reading. You may want to consider a plywood core instead, or, depending on the application, MDF. I'd use MDF for a table top, but not for a cabinet door due to the weight. There is also a "combination core" plywood available that has MDF faces on a plywood core that might be the best of both worlds for veneer applications. Agree with the others that paperbacked is easy. With a press, raw veneer isn't very hard (and can be had significantly thicker). There are many excellent books and videos available...See MoreNeed advice for vanity side panel repair
Comments (3)Wood fill and paint would be the easiest. Maple veneer to that side would work as well, but then you would have to find some way to clamp the veneer, and you would still have to apply a finish. I would go with paint, as you point out, it is really seen unless you are in the tub, so try not to stress over it. A third option would be fill and paint, then hang a very narrow set of shelves on the side of the cabinet - so you can store soaps, towels, etc....See MoreMittens Cat
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