I replaced 2 builder grade, five blade fans with Minka Aire fans and they are so much better in both form and function. They are absolutely quiet which the previous fans weren't. My fans are installed on vaulted ceiling and they move the air so much better than the fans I had before. I have the fan below in my MB. It does not come with a light but I did not want a light. I think most ceiling fan lights do a poor job of illuminating. I believe the fan is 52 inches I got it at a local discount lighting store for under $200. The blades have a very realistic wood look but are actually polycarbonate. It is not quite as dark as it looks in my photo. It is the color of the fan in the second picture I am posting. This fan also comes in silver or white. I have this fan in my great room. It is bigger (i think its 58 inches) and about 2 times the price of the other one I posted. It does come with a light but we put the optional cap on it. Everyone that has seen it thinks it is an awesome fan. It comes in several other colors

Wow, this thread got busy while I was drawing. Here's my suggestion for you: I kept the back door but moved it to the far left end. Clean-up area is under windows. The working portion of your kitchen is book-ended by fridge at one end and double ovens at the other. I nixed the nook - just not enough space for comfortable seating - for island seating but I like your latest versions of a table butted up against an island, too. I gave you a more gracious entry to the DR, mimicking the entry to the LR. That entry is bordered by large (est 99" tall, hopefully you're doing custom cabs) pull-out pantry cabs to give you lots of storage. I couldn't tell what kind of fridge you intend to purchase so I opted to err on the side of caution and assume a standard depth fridge (box, doors and handles approx 35" deep). If you plan on a counter-depth fridge, you can increase your island by 4" of so (CD fridges are about 31" with box, doors and handles). I went with the recommended minimum aisles of 42" for a one-butt kitchen (the GW way of saying one-cook kitchen). 36" isn't deemed wide enough for today's appliances. For instance, DW doors are taller so take up more aisle room when open.

With a 9’ ceiling you need about 7’ under chandelier for clearance if heads. Unless, it hangs over a coffee table. That leaves 24” total for your fixture. With a few links of chain you probably have to find something that is about 18” high.

Morning! I have done a basic calculation for sizes of chandeliers. Let me start at front door. A 28-30” round with around 30” height would work. NOTE: assuming you will have the large double iron French doors, make sure the electrician doesn’t just “center” the junction box when rough in for electricals go in right after framing. The reason is it should be in line with coffee table chandelier and offset enough in entry that folks can enter and not feel they have to duck. If the doors are 80” high factor that in as well. Just make sure any choice for fixture has plenty of wire and chain. OK. NOW, moving into great room. I think this room can handle a 5’ square coffee table. You could get local artisan/iron worker to make pretty but simple line iron base and then get glass company to measure it when finished for a 1-1/2” beveled piece of glass thick enough to handle the size (mirror and glass company can advise on that) and then position the junction box for the chandelier for in line with entry, centered to fireplace so views from entry and dining area line up. This chandelier can be 36-40” round. And two tier. This can be discussed with framer now too so they put added bracing up for heavy iron chandeliers. We can determine height from floor once you are ready to hang fixtures which will be months from now. Now on to dining room. After thinking through layout, I believe your table will be just about right. This is due to the need for chair push back and for the need for walkways through and around this space. Your room is sized nicely for this. Kudos to your architect!! You have two main choices for over the dining table. You can do a round from 28-30” or a linear style around 48” long by 12-15” wide. It can be around 10-15” high or higher depending on overall styling. I envision host chairs on each end and they take up more room too but will help balance height if room. Just make sure any arms fit under outer apron or height of table. This fixture bottom should hang Approx 30-34” above table. NOTE: the junction box for this fixture also needs to line up with fixture in living area. Very important. Your fireplace position also has to be centered to these two fixtures. Everything has to line up. To help visualize you can get helium filled balloons with LONG strings and float them up to see roughly the height they will hang at. If you envision a mirror above mantel you will also want the chandelier(s) reflecting into the mirror. I think I would prefer art over your mantel since you might not want to duplicate chandeliers since you will have 3 within view of each other. I know I have thrown a lot of details at you so print this out and if possible get on site and discuss with your design person and the field supervisor so they can help ensure these important items get settled now. This will avoid major problems when lighting gets on site and installation begins. The more details you get right now, the faster things will go nearer end of construction. I have done this in my own homes and with many clients so you can trust me on this!