NVR Dan Ryan Homes HVAC Sizing SCAM
HU-327261041
4 years ago
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millworkman
4 years agoRelated Discussions
new construction....is this a good quote? uv lights? allergies?
Comments (27)I believe you have fairly high electric prices in NY state. What are your electric rates? For example, I pay 12.5 cents per kw-hr delivered in Baltimore. The XC13's look to be 11.5 EER and 13.5 SEER with the air handler model numbers provided. Your true cooling costs are determined by EER (Energy Efficiency Ratio) and not SEER. The XC14 and XC15 use air handlers with different model numbers. Their efficiency numbers look to be between 12 and 13 EER, and 14 to 15 SEER. Need air handler model#s to provide better info. "the db rating on the XC14 is 70db, and is 64db on the XC15. so "how much quieter" is 6 less db? would i even know?" - These readings are for the outdoor unit (condenser) only. If these units are away from the bedrooms, you won't notice any sound. Variable speed air handlers (indoor unit) are much quieter than their fixed speed cousins. "hmmm...big home --absolutely....trying soooo hard not to make it expensive. we are just not in that financial position." - 5000 sq ft home on Long Island NY is expensive and you sure better be in "that" financial position (sorry to be so straight-forward). You are easily north of $1.25 million for that home. $25k for a/c only. The heating system is how much additional?. FYI, the best thing you can do is insulate your new home the best possible: 2x6 construction, extra insulation in the attic, quality windows, etc. Who did a heat gain/loss calc (called a Manual J) to size the heating/cooling systems? Best to you....See MoreNew HVAC System Ductwork Question?
Comments (11)The Utra tech Copeland scroll compressor unloads at 67% capacity. The scroll compressor is 95% efficient on high speed and 94% on low. This is why the scroll at this time is the number 1 compressor for residential application. when it works it works efficiently. However there is other factors for your over all application. coil size of evaporator, fan speed, coil temperature to regulate your TXV metering valve. ect.. Copeland states their 2 speed ultra compressors take 53% more humidity out of the air then their single speed compressors, I will have to find out what this means, is it combined with variable speed or just a constant cfm. Data on the 286B 2 ton 286B with FE4C-3 23,000 btu high 19,400 btu low 3 ton 286B with FE4C-5 36,000 btu high 29,400 btu low 3 ton 286B with FE4C-3 34,600 btu high 28,600 btu low what you want in a two speed system is for your system to run at low speed most of the time. It will take less energy and take out humidity. your 286B is similar to the 226A but with data control so since I'm in Fl and we don't have the 286B yet I will say that it should run around 4.8 to 5.5 amps in low spead around 8.5 to 10.5 amps in high. You want the high speed for the time of day that it is the most hot and days that it is very hot. two speed with variable speed air handlers have change the way we think or I think. And it has nothing to do with what the data specs say or what a computer tells me the thing should be. As we discussed most load calculations unfortunately are used for sales pitching. It's not the exact, it just gives a frame of reference so a professional can make his decision. No two programs will give you the same btu nor will two people give you the same end btu it's just a frame of reference. Data in is data received and we all perceive data differently. I've done loads since they came out on DOS back in 1989. It is only a guide for me not an end all. Let me say, that we can get even more precise, with a home energy audit and HERS rating with a blower door and duct blaster test. We can also grade your insulation, yes it's just not about R-value there is 3 levels of how the insulation was installed. It gets so ridiculous that it has become ridiculous. You may have to look at your home, see how your old system performed. Did it run all the time last summer? We had a hot and rainy summer last season. All these factors I use when I give a bid to a customer. I really focus in on the customer gut feeling too and what temperature is your comfort level. Many Manual J are based on 78F temp in side your home. Well what if you like it at 72F and what if it get's 98F and stays there for 2 weeks? Then this should be changed in the manual J for a proper rating. You know your energy bills, you know that the system before either ran too much or not enough, or it was pretty much out of site out of mind. The good thing is that over sizing is not like it was 10 yrs ago. There is variable speed air handlers and 2 speed compressors that can regulate humidity and your comfort level and this is what we are trying to accomplish, a comfort level in the most efficient way that doesn't cost a million banana's If there is a concern, you may want to look at the FE4C-3. it looses a .5 SEER but has less btu's and it is a slant coil that is much easier to clean. It is very hard for me to give advice since I have not physically looked at your application, but I do know you have a very good contractor that should take care of your needs....See MoreV. disappointed with Mr. Handyman
Comments (20)I have no experience with Mr. Handyman, but have used Handyman Connection (also a franchise) as well as two local contractor services. I consider them a great boon to couples like my husband and I, who both work and are not terribly handy. They all charge at least $75/hr, which is quite a bit less than our auto mechanics charge. We have had work done by several different contractors, and like most customers, have our "favorites" that we ask for as our first preference. The only disappointment we have had was a plumbing connection that has (still has, in fact) a slow leak that I need to have redone. The contractor tried his best, came back twice afterwards. Then tragically he was in a horrendous auto crash and is now permanently disabled. But his other work was fine; we were, and are, quite happy with it. I'd already realized we need to find a "real" plumber to deal with this issue anyway, there is some other evidence that we may need that specialised skill set. We've been fortunate that we have had no bad experiences, although there is one contractor that we prefer not to use -- his skills are fine, we just don't get a solid feeling about his ethics. Nothing truly bad, but I wouldn't be surprised if he pads his time a bit here and there, and we did not like at all how he treats his helpers. One of those "nice upstream, bad downstream" types, and that doesn't fly well with us. I frankly don't think workmen were any better "in the old days" then they are now. However, there are a lot FEWER people in blue-collar work now, then before. The majority of us work in white-collar jobs, and there's still just as many mistakes being made now as before, it's just that these days they're on paper, not carved into wood or stone. We live in a house built in 1940 and it was shoddy to begin with. It has nothing to do with quality of workmanship; the developer who built this house was famous for slipshod, cheap work. My sister-in-law now lives in the developer's house about two miles away from ours, and it's amazing they haven't had some sort of catastrophic accident in the last 10 yrs, that place is built so poorly. The old guy didn't care, he died rich and that's ALL he cared about....See MoreRipping out brand new, never used, builder grade kitchen... Crazy?
Comments (35)If you just need a "working" kitchen to get the CO, then why not just get a sink and cabinet from H4H and have it set in place and working? I think that is not uncommon in kitchen renos anyway where there are going to be delays. Plug in a refrigerator. Set up a surface, cabinet or whatever, and put an induction hot plate in place. And a Breville oven maybe. That's a functional kitchen. CO's don't differentiate between beautiful and ugly, just safe and functional. Have all outlets, etc up to code and finished. Vent hood in place if you can be pretty certain of location. If you aren't sure of the location, you will need to get a permit (later, when you real cabinets are installed) because you'll be going through walls/roof and wiring (although maybe the wiring can be done now if you know the general location, so you wouldn't need a later permit). I'm thinking you actually have an almost ideal situation now. A big empty room with all wiring, plumbing and finish work done, just waiting for the cabinets you love to be installed....See More
BT
4 years agoHU-327261041
4 years agomike_home
4 years agoUser
4 years agoUser
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoBT
4 years agoDear HU-327261041, Many years ago (like 20 ) HVAC systems were sized by sq ft. And the correct suction line temperature were set by beer cold. Since that time the industry moved on...
The ACCA https://www.acca.org/standards/technical-manuals Established the System Design Process to better engineer HVAC systems. You can see manual J, manual S, Manual D, etc - to determine your system and design your duct-work.
NVR hires out these designs. I am sure they do this at the lower end [when choice of 3.5T vs 3T is presented they use 3T], still it is engineered.
BT 3.5T is not enough for 3200sqft unless you built a passive house, is that the case here?
LOL, There are houses in between of NVR mass production and a passive house design.... Here is ManJ report. 1T = 12,000BTU. You can see that Sensible can be satisfied ~2T system, total sq ft near 5,888 sq ft.
Izzy Mn
4 years ago
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