Definitely not warm, cold but HOT
7 years ago
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- 7 years agolast modified: 7 years ago
- 7 years ago
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Cost of washing laundry - hot/hot cold/cold hot/cold????
Comments (29)There's a lot of things involved with laundry. There's no perfect solution for all situations. These websites that claim to tell you what things cost are seldom accurate for more than the one or two instances they show. You CANNOT say it will cost you $___ to do a load of clothes since there's all the variables. Let's start with water temperatures. How much heating will depend on the temperature of the water in the first place. Anyone who lives in a northern climate knows that the water temperature from the tap is far different on Christmas Eve than on the 4th of July! Then comes the issue of terminology. "Hot", "warm" and "cold" are relative terms. Some laundry is fine to wash in "cold" water, but not in nearly ice water! "Cold" water in laundry terms (check your detergent specs) should be 70 - 80° so many times to get "cold" water, you would need to heat it! Plus keep in mind that detergents do work anywhere near as well in temperatures below 60°. Powders especially, don't dissolve as well in truly cold water and even liquids don't dissolve as well. If they don't dissolve, they don't do the job as well. And then there's the issue of cost of heating. If you use steam, natural gas, propane, electric, wood or your mother-in-law's flaming breath, it'll have a different cost to heat it and many of them will vary from time of year. So be careful getting sucked in by these websites. They can be used as a guideline for educating yourself but don't take everything as gospel. Some other things here that are interesting: I'm always amused with people using bluing. Why? Do you know what bluing is? It's not "whiting"! Bluing dyes your clothes blue and it's an optical illusion to make you think your clothes are more white. Similar in concept to different lighting making things look different. Bluing washes out and has to be replaced to continue the illusion. As far as hot water shrinking clothes, well, that's seldom true. "Hot" water to many people in laundry is only 95°-120°! Your dryer gets much hotter than that so how can body-temperatures shrink clothes? Now if you boil your clothes, that's different but I doubt many here use near-boiling water temperatures. I think most would be surprised how cold their water temps are. I haven't even addressed heat losses in the pipes and the machines yet. Many people have their water heaters set too low. Only some washers have built-in heaters. So if you use a frontload, have your water heater set at only 120° or less, and factor in the pipe losses, then the loss in the machine since the colder machine tub will cool the water and since FLs use less water it'll cool more than a toploader, you can have some really cold washing temps. Take a thermometer and measure the water in the drum sometime. Some washers have a warm rinse option but they're fewer and fewer with the regulations now mandating energy efficiency. Mine doesn't have a warm rinse option. Occasionally I run a short wash cycle to fill the tub, then switch to rinse and spin. And my machine does a spin drain. I'm skeptical about the debate over neutral drain vs spin drain allegedly putting dirt back into clothes. After all, in a spin drain (like front loaders) you're essentially forcing the dirty water back through or into the clothes again too, instead of letting it settle on them. This is part of rinsing clothes IMO. And part of the detergent's job to lift and suspend the dirt. I'm also skeptical when people say they use so much less detergent in a front load. Look at any HE detergent and you get the same number of loads from a bottle or box. And by the comments of the laundramaniacs in the laundry forums, you need to use enough detergent to get the maximum effect from a front loader. Insufficient detergent, too much softener (which I don't use anyway), too cold a water are all contributing factors to smelly washers and mold buildup. Warmer water cleans better. That's been proven. Now there's an issue of how dirty do your clothes get as to how much cleaning do they need. Some people don't get their clothes dirty and really a rinse would "clean" the clothes sufficiently. I used to use cold water washes under the theory of saving money but after reading the science in laundry, the truth about temps and realizing hot, warm and cold are ambiguous and undefined terms, I was most things now in 130°-140° water and use a tap cold rinse (since I don't have another option) most of the time and occasionally will warm rinse things if I feel it necessary. Saving money? I laugh when I see people spend upward of $1.50 per load on imported detergents and then quibble about a few pennies to heat some water. I tend to save money on detergent and not feel bad about spending a few cents to clean bacteria out of the clothes a little better. I use Tide Free & Sensitive detergent and pay only a few cents per load for detergent. I refuse to use softener, another saving and no dryer sheets, savings again. Plus the reality is I can't really see a difference since going to warmer wash temps in my bills, but I see an improvement in my laundry....See Morewarm, warm, hot winter in Columbus, OH
Comments (9)I'm having a slow day, and Ken's response above has motivated me to talk about winter. So, what is winter? It depends entirely on the definition you use. The one we usually encounter in the mainstream press is the one I find the least useful: winter is the time between the winter solstice and the spring equinox (i.e. around December 21st to around March 21st in the Northern hemisphere). I think there are two far more logical definitions: meteorological winter is the coldest three months of the year (December, January, and February in the Northern Hemisphere); solar winter is the quarter of the year when the sun is lowest in the sky (between around November 6th and February 6th in the Northern hemisphere). Using the meteorological definition, the middle of winter is in the middle of January. Using the solar definition, the middle of winter is the winter solstice on December 21st. So, depending on your definition, December 21st either marks the beginning of winter, a random day in the first third of winter, or the middle of winter. If you are wondering when sunscreen might be necessary for an outdoor excursion, it would be wise to keep solar winter (and solar summer - between May 6th and August 6th) in mind. If you want to know when it's going to be coldest, use the meteorological definition. I can't think of a good reason to use the astronomical definition (solstice to equinox), yet it won't go away. Maybe somebody can convince me why it's useful....See MoreHouse cold upstairs, warm downstairs
Comments (6)so air is coming out of all the spots with red arrows. There's water where the blue arrows are. The teal duct tape is what I put over the old tape last night (all I had on hand) and now there's condensation on the tape. We have 2 zones and last night zones 1and 2 had green lights and today zone 2 is red....See MoreResidential home cold water taps have warm/hot water feeding into them
Comments (13)Scott, FWIW, whether you have an expansion tank or well tank (which you have) doesn't matter a bit as your problem has nothing to do with a pressure/expansion tank. Woodbutcher (above) describes the application of both tanks correctly, they are identical inside and only differ in size. The issue appears to be a cross-connection between the hot and cold water. Your statement "I turned off the cold water intake to the water heater and the water started running straight cold" confirms this. - Dou you have a hot water tempering valve (usually close to the water heater) that could be back feeding between the H/C? - You said you already looked for a hot water recirc system and didn't find any. - Are there zonal shutoff valves (usually not!) so that you could isolate the problem to certain areas of the house? - If you shut off supply lines under sinks does the problem stop? - Diagnosing showers and tubs can be a problem because they can be piped as a bathroom group (lavatory + toilet + shower/tub) or individually off the supplies. If the shower/tub controls have built-n stops (uncommon) you can shut them off individually behind the faceplate. - Maybe shutoff EVERY faucet and shutoff valve inside/outside the entire house. Then start opening them one at a time, maybe repeat in different sequences. Hopefully you can physically isolate where the problem is in the house....See More- 7 years ago
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