Linear Drain Remodel Hell :-/

4 years ago

This bathroom is a beauty that I’m proud of, but this final element of installing the linear drain has been utter hell.

If anyone has help to share a good solution (INHO, a drain with a flange that lays over the tile...), I would be ever so grateful.

Issue 1.

original install was tile insert linear drain, but first contractor put in the base, but didn’t place it well so the tile insert wouldn’t fit in nor be able to stay atop the base (too low)

Issue 2.

I got a new drain and had asked to fit the new metal linear drain cover (only); it needed only a small cut to tile on one side to fit it, and solution would have been there....but when 2nd contractor did this he cut the whole much larger so that new metal BASE would fit, and thus damaged the tiles around it. (Thus disallowing solely the metal drain cover, and requiring the whole new system to be inserted)

Issue 3.

the new metal base does not fit fully into the space, above the original base, mainly due to part of the metal trim still sits above the tile (on one side mainly, as tiles were not evenly placed around the perimeter)

Challenge to solve:

fit the new metal base inside so that the trim is flush with tile, so water doesn’t accumulate around drain edges
find a way to cover the chipped tiles in the permitter
find a good caulk, grout or similar to be water resistant and provide good seal.

Thanks for any suggestions or questions to solve this 3 month nightmare of finding a solution....

Much appreciated,
Brad

PS yes I do have confidence there was a good install of membrane below the tile; we did a flood test and the slope works very well in all areas of the shower floor (except one corner that’s a little slow)

PPS - as above, my thinking a drain with metal flange permites that’s sits above the tile would be easiest solution, but there are none on the market that have this; even I called Kerdi drains and they said none of their products would work, as their flange goes below tile.

PPPS - the opening now is 24” long, and 2.75” wide.

EOM

Featured Answer

PRO

Joseph Corlett, LLC

4 years ago

last modified: 4 years ago

I'd take the insert into a steel fabricator and have him make a flanged stainless insert that covered the chips. I'd put little tabs on the bottom or a rounded edge with slots so it allowed water to pass underneath. It would look like you planned it that way, it's cleanable, and doesn't endanger your waterproofing as tile replacement may.

My guy would probably hit me for $500.00.

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Comments (7)

chiflipper
4 years ago
Bump...awaiting the Pros.
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PRO
Creative Tile Eastern CT
4 years ago
Not quite sure what you have here. Is the integrity of the waterproofing system still OK? What type of waterproofing? Is this a barrier free shower or is there a curb? You've had 2 contractors fail at this and you are stuck with coming up with the fix not them. Something is not adding up. Linear drains are a simple installation so my concerns are more than what is visible. Who is doing the fix? Contractor#3. I've got ideas but need more info.
chiflipper
4 years ago
You are pleased with the shower...but...we are seeing issues other than the drain. Caulk is to be used (NOT grout) at the juncture of planes (the shower floor to the walls & in the corners where two walls meet).
User
Original Author
4 years ago
Dear all -
A. A flanged insert; how is this made or can be ordered?

B. Connecticut (me too from there:)
- no, nothing wrong with the waterproofing.
- issues is the origin linear drain was installed with a plastic one as the base. We opted to change to a metal covered one, because the hole to place it was not big enough to put the tile insert top
- so when the new contractor went to install the top, he created a larger opening to fit the new metal base too (oops!) and thereby the tiles chipped.
- the new metal base does not fit in fully because it’s hitting part of the plastic base that’s installed (waterproof seal)
- as such, I need to find a solution to cover the chipped tiles, and figure a way to install the metal base in there (if that’s the best option?) so it lays flush with tile
- even if I do, chipped tile is still an issue.
What other ideas did u have?

C. Thanks for the thought on using caulk at the wall/floor corner; we have a sanded caulk that we can use- would that be ok to put over existing grout?

Thank you all! This has been very frustrating to find a good, easy solution.
At this stage, price don’t matter to get it done after 3 mos waiting ...

Brad
millworkman
4 years ago
"sanded caulk that we can use- would that be ok to put over existing grout?"

No, grout must be removed.
User
4 years ago
How did they change the draft n without compromise by the waterproofing?

Linear Drain Remodel Hell :-/

Joseph Corlett, LLC

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chiflipper

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Linear Drain Remodel Hell :-/

Joseph Corlett, LLC

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chiflipper

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Creative Tile Eastern CT

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millworkman

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