Quickdrain Linear Drain

12 years ago

Hi everyone!

Demo begins tomorrow on the master bath remodel - FINALLY!!

I want to try and do a Quickdrain linear drain, but I am not sure if it will work and I need some help. I think a mud base would be best given our neo-angle shower, but quick drain has these nifty QuickSlope and FlatPanel products that may eliminate the need to build a mud pan.

Also, apparently Quickdrain makes their own Noble-like membrane (they no longer reccomend using Noble as a result) but they do allow the use of Hydroban for waterproofing.

We will be doing a radiant floor in the shower and the quickdrain folks tell me that the radiant layer can go under or over the membrane. In this case, I'd lean towards UNDER for obvious reasons. Suntouch WarmWire is rated for shower locations.

My GC has only ever done a rubber membrane and never worked with topical waterproofing.

I am trying to figure out:

1) Can we use a linear drain with this shower configuration

2) How do we work the slope? I would like the drain on the South 44" wall.

3) What is the best way to tell my GC to waterproof considering his experience with rubber membranes, but not topical?

4) I'd like to keep the curb as low as possible, what do you think is reasonable?

Anything else to think about??

In case it is too small to see:

The shower is 68"x68". The short walls are 42" each with the entry door on most of the 45 degree wall. The bench will be 24"x24" with 6" sides and 24" across the front.

There is a fixed head on the West wall, handheld on the South wall and a 12" rain shower in the center. Controls will be on the North and East walls.

Thanks in advance for the advice!!

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Comments (7)

David
12 years ago
I hope the following helps

Here is a link that might be useful: Curbless shower
Intoodeep
Original Author
12 years ago
Thanks, I have read that link. We are not doing a curbless shower.
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My goodness. This thread has gone off the deep end. First of all, simultaneous water sources are not allowed in CA. One at a time only. And even if I could, I wouldn't. I conserve water at every opportunity. I know that until very recently Texas was in a severe drought so I hope you only recently started wasting water with "SUPER long" showers and multiple water sources. These days this kind of behavior is frowned upon in much of the country even when there isn't a drought condition. None of the surfaces in the renderings are true. I said the colors are "generic" meaning don't pay attention to any of that. Maybe that wasn't clear but there is no wood in the bathroom so it's not a concern. As for completely undoable, you guys have lost your minds in terms of the drainage needed. There is one showerhead with a full four foot long linear drain under it. And for the next four feet away from the drain there is a downward slope aimed at that drain at 1/2" per foot for a total of 2" rise. The entrance to the shower is another good foot or two away from where the slope even begins. There is no way water from a low flow showerhead is going to travel four feet uphill, then traverse another foot or two of flatland and then follow that by making a sharp right turn to exit the shower. Not. Going. To. Happen. At least not on the planet Earth. I don't need two drains. I was not questioning if the shower design was OK. I was questioning whether or not a certain type of linear drain could be used in this design because the manufacturer's verbiage was unclear. I have spoken to Quickdrain and they assured me that the TileIn drain and WallDrain will be fine with this design. And these are their least capable linear drains. I suppose there is a question about whether or not code requires the entire floor surface to be sloped but the people working on my house have done curbless showers (one guy was brought in specifically to do the shower floor and drain because he is a curbless specialist) and they don't see an issue. I will still ask my inspector when I see him to be sure. I might actually prefer the entire surface to slope back towards the wall and away from the door just so that the floor of the shower is seamless. I hadn't considered that option but if I do it, it would be for aesthetic reasons not because what I have will not contain the water.
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If you have the right tiler thay could do a full topical waterproof build while still using this drain by employing A divot. Very technical build for diy or novice tiler. Id return the drain however and get a bonding flange drain they are the real linear drain what you have is A drain STRAINER that should be sold as such as its kinda misleading advertising and its a problem in our iindustry.. Side note.... further confusion ! some Strainers can also work with a bonding flange drain and a coupling gasket . Common pitfallls for people buying drains online w/o a qualified tiler guiding you. all this info has been clarified on these forums search it out.
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More about this drain, It installs easily, has its pros cons. I like that it sets flat on subfloor and gets screwed in ( this could be done in slab too). The green Protective tape is heavy duty and great up until you have to tear it off to do this. The cons being the clamping flange and screws( which BTW is why i used this drain). The flange itself has over 20 screw holes, They are not beveled out and the screws when snugged tite set a good 1/16th above flange and dont seat well. the flange itself needed a good de-burring. It gets the job done and clamps tightly. I went ahead and used some membrane on top of the screws and under my tile edge as a sleep well measure. At nearly 3/4 the cost of a good stainless drain id say its benefit is the clamping flange, even if its lacking. It plays nice with the USG durock shower system and I was able to get both of my MFG reps support using the 2 together (another reason i chose this drain).
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I just finished a remodel and I got drains from Designer Drains Designer Drains I had original planned on the kind of drain which has tile to match the tile of my shower floor but there was some miscommunication when the rough was installed so it would have been too high with the floor. I am really happy with the drain I selected - it is oil rubbed bronze to match the rest of the fixtures in my bathroom and a style that complements the Art Deco elements in my bathroom. I have a hair strainer installed. I opted for a drain without screws to make actually cleaning the hair strainer easier since I wouldn't have to screw and unscrew the drain for cleaning. I am pretty certain that sewer monsters won't come up through my shower drain :-). There are also after market hair strainers that work well. Prior to my remodel I had one which was just a square grid on top of the existing drain cover. That was fine since I had a plain chrome drain cover and the grid cover looked like the drain essentially. With my new remodel I wanted the kind of hair strainer that was below the drain cover
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User
12 years ago
"We will be doing a radiant floor in the shower and the quickdrain folks tell me that the radiant layer can go under or over the membrane. In this case, I'd lean towards UNDER for obvious reasons. Suntouch WarmWire is rated for shower locations. "

HALT ! you need to do some research and call some tech departments for the products you are think about using.

Some membranes do not play well with radiant floors.

Another point I've seen is that the membrane will limit the effectiveness of the heater anyway. Additionally the on off cycle of the heater + the expansion contraction of the assembly is not worth the risk in a shower pan to me. You could just leave the system on full time during the season to minimize this, but that has drwabacks too.

Besides - isn't the floor warmed after your hot water falls on it for a few seconds before you get in?

A linear drain presents some real challenges for slope in that shower - some you may not like standing on at the end of the day.

The WC detail is a bit funky with the angled wall. Straighten it out or center the wc on the 31" part. Alternately make it all 36" and re-configure the two doorways.
Intoodeep
Original Author
12 years ago
Thanks, Antss...I was thinking the slope required may be wonky with a linear drain -- as much as I want to use one!

I agree that the toilet should be centered on the 31", moving the doorways and straightening the wall isn't as easy as it sounds. One door is the closet and the other door is the exit.

Re: Radiant heat...yes, once we decide what to do, I will call the maufacturer of the membrans & Suntouch and ask. The quickdrain membrane is the one I was speaking about - I was talking to the QD technical support guy.

Thanks again
User
12 years ago
"slope required may be wonky with a linear drain "

it's not the linear drain - those can be as simple as a one way slope in a square or rectangled shower. The issue for you is the noe-angle setup!

You need to do the research in parallel as it's more a membrane issue than the heating mat on.

Also - be very careful about the QD membrane! They are a very very new company and started as a metal fabricator of drains. They don't have a track record or the engineers to flog a waterproofing membrane in my opinion ! That's THE MOST IMPORTANT PART of a shower assembly.

Look into on of the products/brands I mentioned. All have been around teh tile setting business for decades with 100's of thousands of installs. They also have engineering departments that don't double as marketers, salesmen and shipping dept.

I'm not knocking quickdrain, we use them several times a year but they are a drain manufacturer not a waterproofing - setting materials company.
Intoodeep
Original Author
12 years ago
I hear you. I meant that with the neo-angle, it would be wonky to get a good slope to the quickdrain.

In the end, unless we put the drain at the shower entrance behind the curb, I don't think that we can pull off a linear drain...and I'm not sure that I want the drain at the entrance!

Looks like a nice square center drain may be in my future after all.
:-( At least I tried!

At least the rubber membrane manufacturer and Suntouch both agree that I can use the warmwire in the shower with a mud base. :-)
User
12 years ago
At the curb is the worst location for the drain, and you still have the same dilemma of slopes to deal with whether you put it there or at the seat.

"At least the rubber membrane manufacturer and Suntouch both agree that I can use the warmwire in the shower with a mud base. :-)"

Which rubber membrane manuf. is this?

Those linear drains function best with a "topical" membrane as opposed to a traditional rubber shower pan with a mud bed on top of it - which I think your people have been talking about.

The issue is how the heating mat plays (or doesn't)with this topical membrane which is extremely thin when it is a liquid applied type.

If (now) you are not doing one and are going with a trad. clamping drain + showerpan and mudbed you have some more latitude. Just be sure you have a "pre-slope" BEFORE your showerpan is installed. And be certain the drain's weepholes are not filled with mud.

If your builder/ tilesetter /plumber look at you funny or tell you "that's not necessary" SHOW THEM THE DOOR IMMEDIATELY.

Quickdrain Linear Drain

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David

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Quickdrain Linear Drain

Comments (7)

David

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