What’s wrong with this arrangement?
Corinne Masterson
4 years ago
last modified: 4 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (53)
Related Discussions
What’s wrong with my Hibiscus?
Comments (5)Given the chlorotic appearance of the leaves, I'd say that fertilizer is a very appropriate response. The plant was probably delivered to its POS (point of sale) in spring, and hasn't been fertilized since. That, and the fact that it's seriously rootbound would account for the foliage closest to the trunk being shed. For Hibiscus, a random choice of fertilizer is not appropriate, and you shouldn't even consider using any of the "bloom booster" fertilizers for containerized plants, especially Hibiscus. They all supply much too much phosphorous, and it just so happens that hibiscus likes very little phosphorous compared to the nitrogen supplied. The proper pattern for Hibiscus fertilizers should be a medium amount of nitrogen, a small amount of phosphorous, and a large amount of potassium (K). The NPK numbers should be medium: small: large. If you understand the difference between a fertilizer's NPK %s and its RATIO, a 3:1:5 ratio is about right. If you choose Foliage-Pro 9-3-6, and add an equal measure of ProTeKt 0-0-3 to the fertilizer solution, you're good to go ...... and the FP 9-3-6 can be used as is for all your other plants. If you winter over the tree, it works best to keep it on the dry side in a cool dark corner of the basement, providing only enough water to prevent the roots from drying out, rather than trying to keep it growing until it uses all of its reserve energy and has nothing left when repot time comes every spring. They should be repotted every spring as their root systems are very aggressive. Repotting is much more involved than potting up - ask if interested in knowing the difference (if you don't already know. The plant LOVES heat and sun, so start reacclimating it to full sun asap. It's likely you won't fix the bud blast issue until you next repot and get the plant on an appropriate fertilizer. Bud Blast What's occurring with the flower buds is called 'bud blast', which can be broadly described as the aborting of buds before or soon after opening. Deficiencies of the immobile nutrients are a common cause. Major changes in the amount of light and water the plant is acclimated to, but over or under-watering can also be causal. Radical temperature, cold air from air conditioners or warm air from heat sources can either cause buds to be aborted, and night to day temperature changes can cause condensation within the bud sheath, which can cause the bud to rot. Chemicals/fumes from gas/diesel engines or ethylene gas from any source can cause bud blast. Aphids and thrips can feed on buds or cause infections that cause them to abort. Humidity too low or plants too close to supplemental lighting are often issues, as is chemical damage related to EC/TDS (salt levels). And sometimes, often infuriatingly, the issue is often idiopathic or remains obscure. I think directing your prophylactic efforts toward maintaining those cultural practices the plant approves of, particularly soil moisture levels, temperature, and fertility, should be followed. Make sure the fertilizer you're using includes all nutrients essential to normal growth. If you have any suspicions that water/condensation in buds might be an issue, first, don't mist or spray the foliage with water. After the bud erupts, you can try carefully peeling back the bud sheath, which will help prevent water or condensation from causing rot issues. If you find aphids/thrips, treat appropriately. I can't be more specific w/o seeing the plant. Often, though, in cases like this and given a list of potentialities, the grower is able to eliminate a goodly number of possibilities and concentrate on the more likely of the causes. Al...See MoreWhat’s wrong with my monstera plant?
Comments (2)Appears to be a classic case of overwatering. Or at least, not providing adequate drainage. The pot is still sitting in its foil wrapping. This should be removed as soon as the plant is brought home, as it will collect and retain water and impede good drainage. There may also be an issue with the soil media being overly moisture retentive - most prebagged mixes are. Remove any dead or dying leaves, as they are not helping anything. I'd also unpot and examine the roots for rot or mushiness and then repot with a high quality, textural and fast draining potting soil....See MoreWhat’s wrong with my cast iron plant?
Comments (11)Here is what I would do: * Unpot the plant(s). * Melt a drain hole through the bottom of the pot at the sidewall. * Place a plastic or clay pot upside down in the bottom of the pot the plant is in. There should be at least 1/2" between the rim of the overturned pot and the inside of the sidewall. Cover the drainhole(s) in the overturned pot with insect screen or a piece of plastic. The cover is only to stop soil from falling through the drain holes. (See D below for a sense of how much excess water this simple trick will eliminate) * Insert a wick through the hole in the bottom of the pot. If you wish, you can melt a second hole through the bottom opposite the first; then, a single wick can be used. I use 100% rayon mop strands for the wicks. They work VERY well; so well in fact, that they allow me to water plants in the 5:1:1 mix on a schedule, which is supposed to be taboo. * When you water, water thoroughly so you wet the entire soil column. Tip the just watered pot at a 45* angle (see B above) so a drain hole with a wick through it is at the lowest point (see E above). The wick should hang at least 3" below the pot bottom until it stops draining. It should drain all or almost all of the excess water the soil holds. See the mophead in the image below (along with some of the repotting tools I use). The following sequence shows a wick set-up for pots with a single drain hole. The wick works better when the hole is through the bottom at the sidewall. I honestly did not think a cast iron plant would be fussy in their choice of soil composition. Most plants commonly grown as houseplants (other than cacti and some succulents) do not vary much in what they want insofar as a grow medium and moisture levels. They almost ALL want a medium that is evenly damp or moist with plenty of air porosity to drive root function. Where they DO vary is where the limits to what they will tolerate lie. The most commonly grown houseplants all tolerate indoor conditions. Some are known to tolerate low light or dry soil conditions better than others, but very few will tolerate the watering cycle that includes a large fraction of roots completely inundated for such long periods. A well-made 5:1:1 mix will (structurally) last much longer than media based on peat/ coir/ compost/ composted forest products, and can generally be watered almost at will without serious consequences in the form or limited root function or poor root health. The reason a 5:1:1 mix with too much fine material can't offer the same benefits as a 5:1:1 mix with an appropriate fraction of fine material is exactly the same reason that adding a bit bark and perlite to a poorly made commercial mix doesn't work. It is essential the the volume of particles larger than about 1/8" make up somewhere around 80-85% of the mix. Examples: A) If you have a jar of peat and add an equal measure of pine bark thinking it will improve aeration, it will be a failure because there is more than enough peat to fill all pore space between bark particles. B) If you have a commercial grow medium you feel is holding too much water and try to amend it with pine bark and or perlite, thinking it will improve aeration, it will also be a failure unless you add so much bark and perlite that, combined, they make up a fraction of the medium by far larger than the original soil you started with. In fact, adding pine bark and or perlite to a water-retentive medium continually DECREASES o/a air porosity until reaching "threshold proportion", where there is no longer enough fine material to fill pores between the coarse material. From that point on, adding additional coarse material significantly increases o/a aeration. Al...See MoreWhat’s wrong with my horse chestnut tree?
Comments (3)its september.. days are getting shorter.. and trees are shutting down.. the result of shutting down.. is ugly leaves.. we do not treat leaves that will fall off in a few weeks or a month ... trees that are stressed.. can shut down early... stress might be heat.. drought.. hail storm etc.. related.. everything that happened to the tree since the leaves emerged.. causes ugly leaves in fall .. care to tell us what this trees been thru since early spring??? bark maturation and weirdness doesnt really bother me... nothing you can do about it.. other than observe it.... but.. could we see the whole trunk.. including where it goes in the ground.. is the root flare apparent?? ken...See MoreCorinne Masterson
4 years agoCorinne Masterson
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoCorinne Masterson
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoCorinne Masterson
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoCorinne Masterson
4 years agoCorinne Masterson
4 years agoCorinne Masterson
4 years agoCorinne Masterson
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoCorinne Masterson
4 years agoCorinne Masterson
4 years agoCorinne Masterson
4 years agoCorinne Masterson
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoEllen Tracy
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoUser
4 years ago
Related Stories
LIFEData Watch: What’s Great, and What’s Not, About a Smaller Home
Houzz asked more than 200 U.S. homeowners about life in 1,000 square feet or less. Here’s what they said
Full StoryFUN HOUZZHouzz Call: What’s on Your Refrigerator?
Magnets, menus, children’s art, coupons, perfect-attendance certificates, song lyrics — what is fridge-worthy in your house?
Full StoryKITCHEN COUNTERTOPSWhat’s the Difference Between Quartzite and Quartz Countertops?
Weigh the pros and cons of these popular kitchen countertop materials
Full StoryMOVINGHouzz Call: What’s Your Best Downsizing Tip?
Deciding what to say goodbye to can be hard, which is why we want to hear your hard-won wisdom. Please share your advice
Full StoryLIFEHouzz Call: What’s Your Perfect House Size?
How big is too big? How small is too small? Please tell us which home size is just right for you
Full StoryKITCHEN DESIGNHouzz Call: What’s Cooking in Your Kitchen?
Most of us turn to recipes, videos and culinary shows when we cook. Where do you set your cookbook, tablet or TV screen?
Full StoryKITCHEN DESIGNWorking the Room: What’s Popular in Kitchens Now
We break down 9 kitchen design ideas that are making people happy — and show how to make them work for you
Full StoryHOUZZ CALLWhat’s Your Halloween Decorating Style?
Do you prefer pretty pumpkins or gory ghouls? Whimsical witches or wall-scaling skeletons? Please share your photos here
Full StoryBATHROOM DESIGNWhat’s Your Bathroom Style? 9 Great Looks to Consider
See what creates a bathroom’s style, whether you like farmhouse, contemporary, industrial or your own brand of eclectic
Full StoryBEDROOMSWhat’s the Right Location for Your Bed?
Architects, designers, psychologists and feng shui practitioners weigh in on which walls, views and directions are best
Full Story
Patricia Colwell Consulting