You need to be careful about applying different products in a short period of time. Combinations can sometimes cause problems for the plant. Scale infestations are difficult to get under control. It takes TIME. Let the products do their work. I wouldn't be surprised if a bunch of the insects are already dead, with their empty shells driving you crazy. Use the neem (hopefully it's cold pressed neem so that it has the active ingredient in it) according to label directions. It will be helpful to a limited extent on the adults, but much more so on the crawlers. Those are the ones you want to get. What are these Bonide products you're talking about...active ingredients, please. We can let you know if they will be effective or not. I'll also suggest that you visit the Citrus Forum here in the Gardenweb. Not only can you read up on old thread with the exact same topic to gain some insight from others, but you can post your own topic.

I had a Sabal Minor, a young Sabal Palmetto and a Serenoa Repens covered with scale last fall. I loaded them up with coffee grounds and today they are totally free from any signs of scale. It really does work, but sometimes you have to load them up with coffee and even mix it with water and pour it over them as I did.

Pruning is probably not your best option for a Ficus elastica. Perhaps you could visit the House Plant Forum with this question. I am going to guess that it will be suggested that you do whatever you can to remove the scale by hand (soft cloth with some rubbing alcohol), and then continue with a spray regime of rubbing alcohol/water to kill crawlers. Horticultural oil can also be a great help to smother crawlers and eggs. If the infestation is a severe one, sometimes the best policy is to put the plant out on the curb for trash pick up. Scale insects are notoriously difficult to control on indoor plants. And be careful that other house plants don't become infested.

1. I would like to know how I can completely change out the soil for my Fiddle leaf fig? Generally speaking, a repotting session should include bare-rooting of most plants (conifers should not be fully bare-rooted), root pruning, and a change of medium. I'll refer you to a thread I started many years ago that focuses on long term care of trees in pots. I also wrote one about caring for Ficus over the long term, and another about good growing practices in general. Long Term Care of Trees in Containers Long Term Care of Ficus in Containers Overview of Good Growing Practices 2. Should I wait until June to repot? To change out the soil>?? Yes, please wait. I see nothing leading me to believe there is nothing emergent enough to justify repotting now (as opposed to waiting until June) if you live in the Northern Hemisphere. I'm not suggesting a repot would jeopardize your trees viability, only that your tree will better tolerate the stress of repotting when it's energy reserves are high and its ability to make food (trees synthesize their own food [sugar/ glucose] during the process of photosynthesis) is about to peak. In the Northern Hemisphere, that occurs at the Summer Solstice (Jun 21). This means the tree's recovery time will be much shorter, and since your tree's natural defenses are directly related to its metabolic rate, the tree's vulnerability to insect herbivory and disease pathogens will also be very low during this period. Plant's have natural rhythms, during which the tree's energy levels fluctuate. Unless there is a dire reason to repot out of season, the best practice is to work to take advantage of the plant's strengths by doing repots and heavy pruning when the tree is most robust, and allowing for the trees 'down time' by being extra careful to avoid unnecessary stress. Not only is that practice better for the tree, it enhances your sense of being a good nurturer, the reason which underlies our desire to keep plants. As your journey toward a green thumb continues, you'll realize the plane on which you interact with plants is elevated, primarily by knowledge, and there is a great deal more personal satisfaction that comes with that elevation. 3. Will BioAdvanced 3-in-1 Insect, Disease and Mite Control Concentrate kill scales? Yes. It's what I prefer to rid plants of insects with rasping/sucking mouth parts, but be sure to purchase the product with a label which lists Imidacloprid as an active ingredient, along with Tebuconazole (ststemic fungicide) and Tau-fluvalanate, a miticide. They make 2 different products, same label - different ingredients, and only 1 contains the systemic insecticide Imidacloprid IMAGE. the product does not mention Scales at all? It lists them in the folder adheared to the backside of the container. or should i use : BioAdvanced Tree & Shrub Protect and Feed Concentrate - as it specifically mentions Scales? It contains the same active ingredient (Imidacloprid) and a fertilizer that will interfere with your control over the plant's nutrition (assuming you're using an appropriate fertilizer like Foliage-Pro 9-3-6). The product in the container of BioAdvanced Tree & Shrub Protect and Feed Concentrate is the same product manufactured and labeled as Marathon. I used it by sprinkling an appropriate amount on the surface of my indoor plants before bringing indoors for the winter, I had sever root issues with almost all of them and was fortunate they all survived. The reason wasn't due to the product being an abiotic pathogen, it was due to the fact that the granules migrated into the soil (gritty mix) and filled the pore space between particles. This might have been ok in deeper containers, but plants in the shallow containers I grow in demand superior drainage, which the granular product destroyed. It might be as bad for you, depending on the depth of the pot, but both products I originally suggested have the very same active ingredient and I know neither have the potential of damaging soil structure like the granular product did. Your call. If you decide to use the granular product, I have 5 lbs of Marathon I'll give you for the price of postage. That's about $75 worth of insecticide, but caveate emptor. Al