If you go to http://harvesttotable.com/archives.html you will find most if not all of your answers. In addition to all the other information they give you for each veggie, they usually give you the information for container planting that particular veggie. Also, you might consider the vertical strawberry tower made out of PVC pipe for your strawberries. I have no where to hang one so I'm going to mount one between two fence posts (that no longer have fence between them). Enjoy all of your container gardening.

Josh, I see. When I first clicked on the picture nothing happened. The second time it enlarged. To be honest, I didn't notice it was Photo Bucket, not that it matters since I don't know anything about Photo Bucket anyway..lol. Nico. I thought you said you had the PL 6 months, sorry. IMO, air conditioning isn't the best for tropicals, but what can you do? Make sure the air isn't aiming/hitting your plants. Garlic water won't harm your plants as long as you don't add salt in the water. Salt will kill a plant. I sometimes spray with veggie water, especially after making sweet potatoes. Garlic will deter some insects. Where are you located, if you don't mind me asking. Do you know anyone else who uses the packaged soil your Peace Lily is potted in? Does the bag list ingredients? If it was my plant, I'd use a little of the bagged soil, (if the package says for indoor/house plants, orchid bark, Perlite, and tiny stones. The temperature is okay. Maybe a bit too warm. Your PL doesn't look bad, but it's best you change soil. Don't over-pot. Use a container 1-2 sizes larger than the root ball. Peace Lily's do best when tight-fitting, they tend to flower more, too. Yep, if leaves are more than half damaged, cut them from the stem closest to soil. They won't return to green. For the time being, stop fertilizing. Water only when soil is almost dry. If soil is staying wet at the bottom, something is obstructing the holes, plus the current soil is too heavy. We've already covered that. Repot with above ingredients. Apply fungicide only if your Peace Lily has fungi. There's no sense in adding chemicals if they're not needed. When you repot, check roots. Do you know what to look for? Toni

Many "landscapers" and some "horticulturists" will come in and plunk down a thin layer of soemthing they call "topsoil" and plant and then for the next several years you try, diligently, to keep the plants from dying spending a lot of money on fertilizers and sprays to keep insect pests and plant diseases from consuming those plants. Better is to take the time now to make the soil you have into a good, healthy soil that will grow strong and healthy plants that can better resist insect pests and plant diseases. Your soil should be well endowed with organic matter so it is evenly moist but well drained. While animal manure can add nutrients it does need more vegetative waste to help hold those nutrients in the root zone and provide a home to the Soil Food Web that will be feeding those plants. If your soil is sand the organic matter will fill in the very large pore spaces between the sand particles which will help hold both nutrients and moisture in the soil. If you have clay soil that same organic matter will open up spaces between the soil particles so your plants roots can move around and find both the nutrients and moisture that are now more readily available. Perhaps these simple soil tests might be of some help. 1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains� too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. A good, reliable soil test, maybe from your state universities Cooperative Extension Service would also be a good idea.

The size stated by Chamblee's is very conservative for 'Mrs. Dudley Cross' based upon its growth in my garden. By listing it as 3'-6' x 3'-4', that would lead one to believe that it is possible for their specimen to only grow to 3' tall by 3' wide on the lower end of the range. In my experience, that is ridiculous. You would have to prune the crud out of it constantly to keep it that small and in doing so would ruin its natural beauty. My Mrs Dudley Cross is many years old, but I could probably keep it at 6' x 4' IF I pruned it fairly often. The plant would be happier being allowed to grow a little larger than that (after several years of course). It's a fantastic rose, you will love it I'm sure. Try not to crowd it, if you can. Randy