I won't do any damage to anything by walking on it 20 hours after seeding? With the weather we're having in the Lehigh Valley today, you'll be just fine. If you're squishing around out there, step lightly. Very lightly. If possible, fly over those particular wet areas. :-) Twenty hours in, the seed's still in pre-germination. Absolutely nothing has sprouted, or is really thinking about it yet (that starts around day 7 at the earliest). Through most of the lawn you'll just be increasing your seed/soil contact. For the first five or so days, don't be afraid to walk it if you need to. I wouldn't traipse around inspecting things, but if an area needs something, do it. After that, stay off it until October first, if possible. Ignore weeds.

Do I understand correctly that to inspect/unplug weepholes, we will have to remove the stone around the drain? Is there any hope of doing that without destroying it? How do we unplug the weepholes? Are there any special tools required? It CAN be done, even as a DIY task. You need to cut the grout joints around the tiles you're going to remove, and then use a hammer and chisel. once you have the tiles out, you need to be very careful not to damage the pan membrane. All it takes is a pin prick, and the whole thing is coming out. Once you clear the weepholes, though, you need to tape them off and water test it before you put it all back together to make sure it's still watertight.

First, your grout and mortar beneath the tile are not waterproof. Even a single grain of sand is porous. It will get wet and soak up water underneath your tile, so the mortar needs a mechanism to drain. I attached a photo so you can see near the drain pipe in the photo center lower edge and reference to "pea gravel to cover weep holes". Small weep holes exist to allow the MORTAR to drain as it will get wet - through the grout and even through the tile. Even the tile, whether ceramic or porcelain is NOT a waterproof surface (unless a glass-like glazed surface). You can see in this image, the shower pan liner is the waterproofing membrane going up the wall on the left and over the curb on the right. It also seals to the drain base. But above that base is the female threaded collar which accepts the upper section of drain. That female threaded collar has weep holes which should be covered with pea gravel so that mortar does not get into them while spreading mortar for the tiles. Different drain systems and styles have different mechanisms that allow the mortar beneath the tile to drain. Most of the shower water washes over the tile and grout and goes down the drain you see in the shower. But water also soaks through the grout and the mortar down to the waterproof membrane beneath that routes it to the drain assembly where the weep holes allow drainage. While excess water drains through weep holes, most will evaporate upward - the same way it entered the grout and mortar. The fact that you have a linear drain does not change this fact of shower drainage. Under your tiles exists a bed of mortar on top of some method of waterproofing. This bed of mortar MUST drain or it WILL fail. First the grout will discolor. Then the tiles will discolor. Then it will all come loose. Generally, people take their showers during one particular time of day, then the shower is unused until the following day. The mortar and grout will dry out during the downtime - certainly within a 24 hour period. Perhaps what you see is simply a grout discoloration from first-time-wet and it has changed color from its original. I would not be worried about the couple of softball sized wet areas. In a custom shower, especially if a mud pan was made, it is not unusual to have a low area here and there. It is hard to be 100% perfect with setting tile. But if the grout IS actually wet - there may be a problem. It should dry in a 24 hour period. From what I can see of the floor tile and wall tile - it looks like a fantastic job! No rookie did this. Bruce @ Elk Ridge Remodeling Co. 608.921.1074

@millworkman, you mean where shower glass meets shower floor there should be silicone caulking? I believe the GC mounted the glass directly (deeply?) into the grout. I remember asking another bathroom contractor about this and he said it's Old School but works. No? Here are more photos, two of master shower and two of my son's shower. Note the crack along the grout of master shower grout. GC said he'll come and fix once we let him (or anyone) into our home isolation. Thanks for chiming in! I was going to ask about this next. Son's shower Master shower (with grout crack, which we keep dry during showers):