ceighmey, the only different treatment to the lawn has been that 'power wheels jeep'. I would bet a 'Coke', my standard wager, that the wheels came after the aeration and nullified all the benefits of it. You can verify this if you are so inclined. Use a plugging tool to remove a core of soil from a good area and a bad area. Since the volume is the same , the difference in weight tells that there is less solid material (or more air) is in the lighter sample. A modification of the screwdriver test is the 'shear strength' determination. Think of something like a larger size spade bit being twisted in the soil by a torque driver. It will require more torque to twist the bit in a compacted soil than in an aerated soil. This might seem like a lot of trouble but like the man said, "You can't fix what you can't measure."

Your third photo looks like it could have been taken from my lawn! The brown patches are creeping bentgrass, which, when not kept mowed to 1" high, gets wiry and sports pom-pom tufts. I have been fighting the bentgrass infestation in my tall fescue lawn for three years. The first year I tried manually pulling it -- because it came out so easily. The grass is stoloniferous, however, so unless you get out every single root (which is simply impossible), it will regrow. The second year I tried Roundup. RU killed all the existing topgrowth and continued to suppress new growth for a good ten months or so, but then the bent returned. This year I'm fighting it with Tenacity. Tenacity is selective for bentgrass, among other weeds, and while it's killing off the topgrowth, it's too early yet to say if the Tenacity has truly eradicated the infestation.

JPEG is great, thanks! Since I just snap open the image on a new tab and work with it there, it's no big deal how you do it! I see why they recommended some of what they did, and I actually agree with them. Mostly. Except they missed a few things, and I'd rather be more gentle than they are. It takes longer, but doesn't challenge the soil biology quite so much. Let's go step by step. EC 7.0: Silty sand. We have to adjust slowly or run the risk of losing resources into the water table--which is both polluting and a waste of money. pH 7.1: High, but not unreasonably so. However, we don't want to make it worse, so we counterbalance everything we're doing with plenty of sulfur. This is good because... Sulfur 6: Quite low, but not a problem. This gives a vast amount of margin in how much I can add. OM 4%: Right on the border between Fair and Good. With a low EC soil, I'd rather see Excellent to Extraordinary. So I'd feed organically as much as possible, mow in all fall leaves, steal other people's leaves, that sort of thing. Phosphorus 34: Very low, and with a higher pH, probably deficient. You'll want to purchase the cheapest starter fertilizer (high second number like 18-24-6 or 20-27-5) you can find. Brand does not matter. Instructions below. Starter will also help pull down your pH a hair as it contains (acidic-processing) nitrogen and phosphoric acid. It's not extreme, but I'll take it. Calcium 62.5%: You aren't that short, and your sodium levels aren't that high. I'm not going to recommend a vast amount of gypsum this year, I'd actually like to see what the starter does. However, I don't want to dispel too much Ca so I would like you to add some. Magnesium 30.7%: Extremely high. Avoid any and all sources of magnesium, including Epsom salt and dolomitic limestone. Let's hope the starter abolishes some of this. Potassium 1.9%: Barely tolerable, and I'd like to increase this. A lot. Potassium sulfate can be ordered from many garden shops and landscape places. You can get it online, but shipping can be a killer. Sodium 0.5%: Quite normal. No adjustments required or desired. Most Minor Elements: Except for copper and boron, they're fine. I did mention iron below as well. Copper 0.84: A little low, but with everything else going this year, I'm disinclined to try to adjust this yet. We're going to ride it a year and then work with it. Iron 149: Fine, but at your pH it's heavily bound. Whenever you like, apply Milorganite at bag rate to slowly raise this. I'm not inclined to recommend ferrous sulfate here as your pH isn't that far out of line. Boron 0.39: This is a little too low to ignore. We use Milorganite as a carrier. In a wheelbarrow or the like, dump the Milo. Spraying very, very lightly with water (I use a spray bottle like the kind people use to damp their clothes when they iron) will help the boron stick. Add the recommended amount of boron and stir, spraying occasionally to get the stuff to stick to the Milo. Then apply over the recommended area. So if going for bag rate Milorganite (1 bag per 2,500 square feet), you'd add 10 tablespoons of 20 Mule Team Borax. Recommendations: Because of your climate, I'm sneaking in some extra stuff. I wouldn't be able to do this in more arid or hotter regions. May 1: Apply starter fertilizer at the bag rate. May 15: Apply 2 pounds of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet. Apply 4 tablespoons of 20 Mule Team Borax per thousand square feet. June 1: Apply starter fertilizer at the bag rate. June 15: Apply gypsum at 5 pounds per thousand square feet. July 1: Apply 2 pounds of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet. September 1: Apply starter fertilizer at the bag rate. September 15: Apply gypsum at 5 pounds per thousand square feet. Apply 1 pound of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet. October 1: Apply starter fertilizer at the bag rate. October 15: Apply gypsum at 5 pounds per thousand square feet. November 1: Apply starter fertilizer at the bag rate.

Yeah, looks like creeping bentgrass. At residential cut height, it will start to lay down and become stemmy and often a scalped appearance. It actually does well where there's a lot of moisture. Doubt that now is a suitable time to seed but I would still spray Tenacity every week until winter to try to kill it. It'll take 3-4 applications. Perennial ryegrass does not spread so you probably will need to overseed periodically. The good thing is that it can be done in "spread it and forget it" fashion because it germinates and establishes so quickly and easily.