Bad Storms and a Tree Goes Sideways (Daylily pics too!)
shive
4 years ago
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Laura twixanddud - SE MI - 5b
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Container Trees Root Bound, Really Bad?
Comments (28)nooooooo !!! .. lol ... i have to admit.. i didnt read all the replies ... see link that i often use in the tree/conifer and shrub forums ... dealing with this is not limited to fruit trees ... so the rules are the same ... but the one thing i didnt see in the replies i read ... is anyone addressing actually what the understock is ... these fruit peeps choose their trees.. based onto only on the fruiting part itself.. but choose based on what is below.. they will have to tell you why.. and for what reasons ... and you can not.. predict what the understock is.. when buying a big pot.. at the bigboxstore .. for that reason ... and the fact that they are mailed to your front door at the appropriate planting time ... many of us prefer mail order ... read the planting guide.. and you will probably find out.. you dont need to dig a big planting hole.. unless you buy a really big tree.. and most tree peeps.. dont believe in instant gratification ... as big plants.. have big transplanting stresses.. and can take years to get settled in and get established... as compared to smaller plants ... which can take off like rockets.. all things properly done ... go small.. get understock appropriate to your area.. and get something sublime ... as compared to what the local guy or store.. throws in the parking lot.. and your rewards should be great ... now all i have to do.. is figure out.. how i ended up in the fruit forum .. lol ... good luck ... ken ps: another trick.. is to talk with a local orchard ... they plant trees every year.. and they know what will easily grow local.. and often offer trees for sale... at planting time ... basically bare root stock they are planting.. thrown in a pot until you stumble by and buy them.. so they havent been in the pot long ... at least my local one does .... Here is a link that might be useful: link...See MoreFranklin Tree ... bad idea?
Comments (14)The trees I saw was near Russelleville, and part of a personal collection. However there is a larger Yellowwood on the University of Arkansas campus that should be coming into flower very soon. The tree is located in the Arboretum area in front of "Ole Main". If it's in flower, it shouldn't be hard to find. The tree we saw Saturday was just about at peak, so allowing for a difference in climate and ignoring variation in genetics, this weekend would seem about right. As for the pH of the soil in NW Arkansas. It is true that we are mostly on limestone, but very eroded limestone with often very eroded soils with lots and lots of vegetation for a very long time. The result is that most soils are acidic. There are areas where this is not true, but unless you are just above a outcrop, you will likely be fine. If in Benton/Washington Counties, you can see your native soil type from GIS maps available on those counties websites. Otherwise find your location using this: http://websoilsurvey.nrcs.usda.gov/app/ Arktrees Here is a link that might be useful: Pine Ridge Gardens...See MoreI'm Just Waiting too. Spring Pics
Comments (7)You could dig, that is plant, now because you can see all the bulbs up and work around them. Add an assorment of both oriental and asiatic lilies. The bulbs don't take up much room. The asiatics will bloom first, then the orientals. Here the Asiatics bloom mid to mid late June and the orientals early July. If you get both the more common color solid color asiatics and some of the fancy new dotted Tango Asiatic, the solids bloom first then the tangos then your orientals. I prefer to plant my lilies in spring although they can be planted both spring or fall. You can get Lilly blooms in late July by looking for Trumpets or some of the hybrids, just pay attention to bloom time when you look for bulbs. My other suggestion is to start some cosmos or zinnia seeds and just plant them. I guess you could self sow even but I have bad luck with self sowing....See Moredaylily leaf streak seemed bad last summer?
Comments (7)according to the U.Mass. Amherst extension site, daylily rust has been found in MA. The site lists the following named daylilies that have been found to have rust in MA. Susceptible Varieties Daylily varieties differ in susceptibility to the rust. In Massachusetts daylily rust was diagnosed on the "Twice as Nice" daylily collection. The cultivars 'Raspberry Candy' and 'All Fired Up' are the two cultivars in this line that have shown the worst symptoms, with other cultivars, such as 'Moonlight Masquerade', showing less severe symptoms. There are fourteen cultivars in this product line. Varieties in other states which have been reported to be affected since 2000 include: Attribution, Gertrude Condon, Crystal Tide, Colonel Scarborough, Starstruck, Joan Senior, Imperial Guard, Double Buttercup and Stella De Oro.Symptoms range from bright yellow spots to streaks. Following inoculation of leaves, infections can appear in as little as two to three days. Not only does the rust have a short incubation period, but it also spreads fairly quickly in nurseries. The University of Illinois extension states that the good news about daylily rust is that it "won't survive this far north" through the winter. I'm thinking that it won't survive the winter here in New England under normal winters. Now this year wasn't normal, but we have had some really bitter cold. I haven't had a problem with rust but have had the daylily leaf streak on some of my plants but not all. It's caused by a fungus that can spread to suseptible varieties. This info is from Cornell university's plant disease diagnostic clinic. Management Strategies 1. Use resistant varieties: Different varieties of daylily have different susceptibilities to the rust. Select a variety that has some known resistance. And don't grow both hosts at the same site, keep daylilies and Patrinia apart. A limited number of cultivars have been studied for susceptibility to the rust pathogen. Very susceptible: Attribution, Colonel Scarborough, Crepe Eyed Ruffles, Double Buttercup, Flower Shop, Hello Sunshine, Imperial Guard, Irish Ice, Karie Ann, Lemon Yellow, Little Gypsy Vagabond, Lonesome Dove, Ming Toy, Pandoras Box, Pardon Me, Patiencve Plus, Pink Beacon, Quannah, and Rosie Pinkerton, Royal Ebony, Russian Rhapsody, Silken Touch, Siloam Doolebug, Siloam Ralph Henry, Solomon's Robes, Splendid Touch, Springtime Treasurer, Violet Explosion, White Wow, and Woodland Romance.. Moderately susceptible: Butterflake, Crystal Tide, Gertrude Condon, Joan Senior, Prelude to Love, Star Struck, Stella DÂOro, and WilsonÂs Yellow. Very resistant: Age of Gold, All-American Hero, Antique Rose, Barbara Mitchell, Butterscotch Ruffles, Catherine Neal, Creole Blush, Dainty Designer, Devonshire Cream, Ed Brown, Fashion Design, Femme Fatale, Gentle Rose, Golden Maondy, Happy Returns, Heartfelt, Holy Spirit, Joie de Vivre, Joleyne Nichole, Lavender Bonnet, Lilac Lady, Mac the Knife, Mae West, Meadow Sweet, Neon Pink, Pink Flirt, Prairie Blue Eyes, Raspberry Splash, Siloam Bill Monroe, Siloam Doulbe Classic, Siloam Ury Winnifors, and Yangtze. 2. Sanitation: Clean up all plant residue in the fall. Remove all remaining foliage from the plants and remove it from the site. Burn or compost the residue, hot composts will kill the urediospores. Newly purchased plants can be pruned back in the spring, this may lessen your chances for introducing the pathogen into your garden from new plant material. 3. Fungicides that may be useful include some products that contain the active ingredients neem oil or thiophanate-methyl. Some of these fungicides are currently registered to treat rust diseases and/or Puccinia rusts on flowering landscape plants in New York State. Once an infection has become established, applications may be needed weekly because new infections are constantly beginning while plants are actively growing As for how I treat it, I just break off the leaves because I hate looking at them. Didn't know what the problem was till tonight. Now I find I've been doing the right thing all along. Breaking them off at the ground and throwing them out in the trash. I did find it worse last year than I have before and another site I read tonight said that it is best to water daylilies at ground level and not get the leaves wet as this can breed the fungus. Well if that's the case, then we all know why the leaf streak was worse last year than before or you had it for the first time. Just remember all the rain we got in April and especially in May. I know I had over 20 inches of rain in May and my daylily beds had ducks splashing in them there was so much water. Here's a link from the Cornell U. site with 2 really good pics of what the leaves look like infected with leaf streak and one with rust. I know my leaves where leaf streak. Just scroll part way down the page...See Morelilykate7a
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