Organic matter mitigates all that, I would mulch and spray, and wait for the mulch to trickle down.

Iron is not that bad, it says 'adequate.' Copper is low but I can't imagine it's causing the entire tree to be unhealthy.

pH is a little high but not really that bad. I have persimmons (wild American, not sure what you have) growing in neutral pH soil and they do fine. If you want to lower it a bit, you can add sulfur, but it does take some time to act. The soluble iron chelate products are often acidic as well, you can water with a dilute solution and take care of two issues at once.

The fert. they are recommending is just nitrogen. You might consider soluble plant food, if you can find one with hardly any P and K. Or get some granular urea, or high N lawn food (which is what the recommended product is).

Having said all that, most likely wet and/or cool weather is causing the chlorosis.lanted some tomatoes too early this spring, the soil and air temps were cool esp. at night and they looked terrible. Yellowish leaves and purple veins. Others planted 2 wks later look 500% better and are 5x as big already. Hang in there.

toxcrusadr, thanks for the advice to be patient. It's a Fuyu, my husband's special pick for the garden. He's pressuring me to keep it healthy since its loss would be a costly mistake.

I had a Fuyu and a Hachiya in Long Beach, CA. both planted in the ground. Never had micro problems. Mulched and not fertilized

Can you move yours to the ground?

Correction, I'm in zone 10a

Jean, the tree is technically "in ground", elevated from the yard level about 1 foot. This was recommended by the grower that sold us the tree. The "soil" I have here in the foothills isn't really soil, it's more like hard packed sand. I assumed plain bagged soil would be far better than what I have but apparently not. Wherever it came from, or whatever it's composed of, gave me those lab results (assuming the results are correct).

Update: the tree dropped tons of young fruit yesterday, and some leaves are turning black.

Fixing a copper deficiency is easy enough; spray the affected area a couple of times with copper fungicide soap, according to the directions. It even counts as organic.

you can also put 3-5 grams copper sulfate dissolved in a five galLon bucket of water and use it as a drench. Note I said grams, not ounces.

Iron Sulfate always seemed a little rough to me. I like to apply in winter for that reason. Chelated iron works well if you don’t mind the expense.