jen9 - I like the Lucinda. It's very similar to the West Elm but larger I think. Arapaho - thank you for all the links - nice tables. I do need one with 24-26" diameter for the tabletop. Based on some of the comments, I started looking for a square table and found this one by Aiden Gray side table. It's similar to my coffee table but perhaps not too much of a match. Love the parquet wood but of course it's too much $$. I also wonder if the narrow legs would look okay between 2 large couches or if I need a table with more mass. I did find this site that has a tutorial for making a table top. DH is very DIY and has all the tools so I may ask if he's up to the project. Just need to find a base. Case iron table legs are not cheap on ebay. Aidan Gray Matthew Ryan Side Table Here is a link that might be useful: Reclaimed wood table tutorial

when you say a 'few shades creamier' do you mean darker? If you mean than then id say that would look nice and if you plan to keep the chairs then I would go darker than the chairs on the table.The subtle contrasts will look better so you don't have it look like you tried to match it all. Make sure whomever paints the table really really preps it well. Funny, I never heard the term banquette? Do you mean the island? Revere pewter is a very pretty color and does have a slight green to it. I almost did it in my halls but am going to do pale oak, which is a more putty color. Good luck with all

Several have used Ralph Lauren's Turret Stair for the really dark brown black look. Red

graywings123, the issue at hand is house siding. I doubt any painter will follow the procedure of the linseed oil. I'm sure they will at least consult their paint representative. And, knowing how manufacturers are about warranties...I'm not saying your "test" is not valid, but I still don't think it is a good idea for the OP's problem. From Rob Flexner's Understanding Wood Finishes in PDF floating around the internet: "Of all finishes except wax, linseed oil is the least protective. (See "Using Wax as a Finish") It's a soft, thin finish, so it provides no significant barrier against scratching. It's also easily penetrated by water and water vapor. Liquid water will work through a linseed oil finish and cause a smudge within 5 to 10 seconds (Photo 4-3). Water vapor will pass through a linseed oil finish almost as if it weren't there." I have the second, revised edition at home and it basically debunks the myth about the idea that linseed oil provides any protection. BTW, I highly recommend readying this book. And from the Wood Handbook by the USDA, p. 16-21 "Drying oils, such as linseed and tung, are appropriate natural finishes for indoor use and are fine for indoor furniture and other interior uses not subjected to water or high humidity. Oils perform poorly outdoors because they are natural products and therefore provide food for mildew" Also, look at Table 16-3, even 3 coats of linseed oil, the Moisture-excluding effectiveness at 14 days is 0%. The Wood Handbook is also an excellent source of information. The wealth of information is invaluable to painters and finishers. I hope this helps.