Low slope almost flat residential roof using PBR metal panels?
lc
4 years ago
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anyone used Metal Roofing for Under Decking?
Comments (1)Yes, I finally had mine done a week ago with metal roof panels. I had read some old messages on here about it last year, and went ahead and finally had it done this year. We used "PBR" style panels that have 1-1/4 inch deep humps. I went with white color so it looks brighter underneath the deck, and don't really notice it from above. We used 2x6's attached to each existing joist on an angle to form a slope, and then used 2x4's across on 2-foot centers to form a frame to mount the metal panels too. We didn't screw through the humps because that's where the water drains down, we screwed right next to the humps. We also installed a gutter on the low side and tied into an existing downspout. Had a few rains so far and it has been drip free! I'm not sure how to add photos here......See MoreBest low-slope roof system for 1:12
Comments (12)Location plays a big part in low pitch roof type selection. If you get significant snow you end up doing a lot of work to prevent water from getting under lap shingles. Double coverage roll tends to have a limited life. Bitumen (torch or cold) still has a lot of field seams that require sealing. The material is also very thin and easily damaged by debris (falling on the roof or being stepped on when already there). EPDM can usually be had in large enough pieces for residential with factory seams. It is also from 0.040 thick and more. EPDM against brick requires a wooden nailer, then the EPDM is held in place with straps and screws, and the edge covered with counter flashing. I use copper set in grooves in the mortar joints of brick walls. It can even be done on stone walls but it is a lot harder to cut the grooves. EPDM can be glued down, ballasted down, or mechanically fastened. The last one I installed has a 500 lb AC condenser in the middle of an 18 x 10 area that holds it down and is screwed and clamped at the edges. Resource Conservation makes up pieces to order and leaves a flap at each seam that you can anchor through as the roof is installed using special washers and screws. You end up with no exposed fasteners. Some commercial work drives fasteners through the EPDM and then covers the area with the edge of the next piece. Field seams are more likely ot cause problems and the uncured EPDM used to make the seams is a real PITA to handle. It sticks to EVERYTHING. You, the tools to cut it, etc. I much prefer a factory seamed panel that can be cut down to exact size. The EPDM industry is not interested in residential work, so finding a good installer can be a problem. In Europe it is used for residential and many details of installation can be obtained. Tar based products cannot touch EPDM without causing damage. Old roof decks need an isolation membrane or a layer of plywood (1/4 inch is fine). When I need to run EPDM up to shingles I use 1/8 inch plywood up under the last course of shingles, install the EPDM, the use flashing between the shingles and the EPDM. The best edge treatment for EPDM is to wrap it over the edge and fasten to the fascia using aluminum bars, sealing tape, and screws. Use stainless hardware here....See MoreIs my flat roof about to fall apart?
Comments (25)Here is what I heard from the company that did the shingles roof of my house. Names have been changed or omitted to protect the innocent. ;) First Reply: Hi – It looks like they originally installed an EPDM rubber roof system up there and then applied a coating to it once it started to fail and cause leaks. I’m not sure on the leaks obviously, but most people would not spend $4-5 a SQ FT to apply a temporary solution for no reason whatsoever. It also appears to have been applied during the summer which is why you’re seeing bubbling in certain locations. Even though you’re not experiencing leaks, you can see on some of the zoomed in photos that some of the fiber from the rubber membrane is exposed due to aging. That’s obviously not a good thing. How much life remaining is almost impossible to narrow down since most people are pro-active and try to fix a problem before it becomes one and other people wait until they have interior damages to repair before doing anything about the source of the leak. I can’t speak for you there. Moving forward, we would recommend a TPO system (Thermoplastic Polyolefin) that utilizes fuse welded seems and also has energy efficient properties. This is the same type of membrane that’s used on commercial roof systems and new modern homes without roof pitch. We’re a GAF certified Master Elite TPO installer so we’re well-qualified to tackle this for you if you decide to go that route. Let me know if you want us to have someone out and get you a quote for that. Hope this helps. Thanks! I then asked him what it would cost, whether a low-slope roof is better, whether a shingles roof could be put in instead, etc. Second Reply: It’s better because there are essentially no penetrations for roof to get into even with product failure. Most shingles cannot be installed on a low-pitch roof and even so, they will typically have issues during heavy rain. We can usually instead a TPO system for $400-650 per 100 SQ FT depending on the area (large commercial projects will see the low end of that) and whether or not we’re adding insulation (PolyISO) board below the TPO as is common practice. I would of course get more than one quote from a low-slope roof specialist if I go that route. What do you guys think? Anyone familiar with the TPO System? Thanks in advance. (I still haven't gone up to measure the pitch. So, shingles may or may not be an option)....See Moreflat roof questions
Comments (229)Here is a general reference for flat roofs on homes if it applies to your situation. I've designed these roofs for large hotels, hospitals, dormitories, apartments and offices where cost could be justified by longevity so they were very expensive. I did a study of roofing systems for the State Dept. years ago but they were all on concrete slabs with equipment enclosures. None of them drained by scuppers or gutters except for overflow. Gravity draining to the exterior puts you into a special category that, to my knowledge, is not well documented. I would use a fully adhered or loosely laid single ply membrane and pay careful attention to venting if the structure is wood. You might consider a hipped roof with a slope of 1"+/- in a foot with fully adhered single ply membrane rooting over a recovery board over foam insulation board with perimeter gutters. It would appear flat from the ground....See Morelc
4 years agoMark Bischak, Architect
4 years agolc
4 years agoWindows on Washington Ltd
4 years agoVirgil Carter Fine Art
4 years agoWindows on Washington Ltd
4 years agoWindows on Washington Ltd
4 years agolc
4 years ago
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