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Fragrant Plants Plant Propagation

Is it possible to graft Osmanthus

Just Started(Sydney)

4 years ago

Hi have one osmanthus orange supreme, one osmanthus aurantiacus and two osmanthus fragrans. While osmanthus fragrans are doing their job of putting out flowers the first two are just sitting there and meditating.

So to make life more intresting I am planning to take one of the osmanthus fragrans. And try to graft on to it a stick from osmanthus aurantiacus and a stick from osmanthus orange supreme. Maybe given the vigorous growth habit of osmanthus fragrans, I will get some flowers on these two scions?

So is it possible? If yes which kind of grafting? Cleft? veneer ?

Featured Answer

Grant Yang (Sydney Australia)

4 years ago

last modified: 4 years ago

@Just Started(Sydney) I’m not quite sure on pruning osmanthus since my osmanthus Supreme orange and Aurantiacus are both less than 3 years so younger than yours. I learned this 4 year to flowering fact from some local Chinese discussion forum where people have these for longer years. But I think your saying they only flower on old woods is right.

By the way this page discussed more varieties of osmanthus which unfortunately we in Australia do not seem to have all.

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Comments (8)

Dave in NoVA • N. Virginia • zone 7A
4 years ago
Are you wanting to graft scions of the flowering osmanthus fragrans plant onto both the 'Orange Supreme' and onto the O. aurantiacus? When you say 'graft it to a stick', do you mean graft it to one branch of the plant? And what do you want to happen? Are you hoping the fragrans graft will somehow trigger the other two into blooming? Or are you just wanting the fragrans to bloom on the other two?
Just Started(Sydney)
Original Author
4 years ago
Yeah. Put the cuttings from Supreme and Aurantiacus on the Fragrans. And yeah, hoping that fragrans vigrous growth habit will somehow trigger the blooming.
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That's something I'd be happy to do. Like Scott and several other folks in this forum we're collectors. I'll be grafting on M111 (and limited M7) this spring. Like a couple previous posts said - you just need to cut pencil sized sticks from last year's growth. If you can find lengths from 6-12" that would be great. Wrap a strip of masking tape around them and write something to differentiate the 2 trees with a black marker. Put them in a plastic ziplock bag with a damp paper towel and mail in one of those bubble envelopes. If you can send some pics of the tree and as much information as you have on the origin, condition of the tree etc. it would be helpful down the road to identitfy them. I'd do it for free if you'd send me a couple extra sticks for my collection. Thanks, Rick Godsil, Wagon Wheel Orchard, Gardner, Kansas The link below has my address and email etc Here is a link that might be useful: Rick's blog
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bencelest, Nice picture; you can definitely see where one tree begins and the other ends. mckh, I am glad you asked since I just saw your other post and it looks like you may have some rootstock sucker growth on one tree, though I can't say for sure. I have read that you want to remove rootstock growth since it takes away vigor from the grafted portion that you want to grow. I don't think it will make any fruit you get from the grafted portion inedible (though it may not be the best since it has to compete for nutrients, water, etc), but the rootstock may produce it's own fruit, which I'd guess is mostly not so tasty. My parents had a tree when I was a kid that got taken over by rootstock--nasty fruit. I can only describe what I have seen here in CA, but the average citrus graft line looks like a little knob on your tree's trunk anywhere from 2 inches or so to a foot or so off the ground (usually 6-8 in); it often looks like a change of angle in the growth and sometimes there is a change in texture of the bark that the above picture dmeonstrates so clearly. I usually see a diagonal line in the bark, but I'd guess all of this differs depending on techniques used...Sometimes the graft line is hard to see, but usually not. If you look up Four Winds Growers, they have some pictures posted on their web site of what a graft line looks like too--you'll have to look around a bit on their website, but it's there somewhere. HTH.
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Grant Yang (Sydney Australia)
4 years ago
Not sure grafting them onto the osmanthus fragrans will speed up their growth or flowering: the osmanthus orange supreme & aurantiacus will take several years(usually 4 years) to start flowering, so please be patient, they will eventually bloom
Just Started(Sydney)
Original Author
4 years ago
One question @Grant Yang (Sydney Australia). Do I prune then or just allow them to keep growing up. They love growing straight up. I want a bushy plant overall. But heard that they flower on old wood. And they will be 3 year old now. I did prune them to encourage the bushiness.

This was the link. Took a life of its own.
Just Started(Sydney)
Original Author
4 years ago
last modified: 4 years ago
Hi @Grant Yang (Sydney Australia). Now I will request you to put pictures of your plants. I want to see how these guys grow in hands of people who know the plants. Are they in pots or ground?

I am a rookie who just bought them while on a fragrant plant hunting spree.

I guess I will let them meditate/sulk. I did repot them to bigger pots last year. They are not taking much space. So yeah. Will continue to feed them.

Also where did you source them from?
Grant Yang (Sydney Australia)
4 years ago
last modified: 4 years ago
@Just Started(Sydney): Pictures of Osmanthus:

The first 2 were bought from Ladybirdroses nursery online, the last was bought from Canley Vale Nursery.

These 2 in pots haven't got enough new growth this year, they are > 1.5 metres tall now
Piscator
last year
Osmanthus flowers on new shoots, only spot flowers on old wood. it is most commonly grafted to chinese fringetrees, not other osmanthus

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