Thanks everyone, it is good for me to face up to the truth, pot too small! HereâÂÂs my plan: to grow miniature climbing RainbowâÂÂs End in a pot until it gets too big, then put it in the ground. It comes only as a band so pot will be fine now, just $7.95 + priority mail from Burling Leong at Burlington Roses, no great fortune to try this. See picture below. I have a place just off the concrete that has lots of sun higher up but is too shady at ground level, shadows from trees and buildings. Judging by a 1 yr growth pic of this rose on the internet, it might be tall enough in 1 yr to go in the ground and get the sun it needs. Goal: plant it in the ground next spring after early blooming wild gladiolus has finished blooming and has not yet died back to the ground and disappeared from view. Last yrâÂÂs pic below dated 3/29/12. I do have the place marked but it will be easier to work on if I can see what I am doing. Might work? Thanks, Trospero, for saving me from a mistake. Thanks, Christopher, love the idea of Yellow Sweetheart, which I wish I could grow. Thanks, Jerijen, space below will be much cooler than concrete area where I was going to put the pot. Thanks, Seil, here is the spot. I am listing plant names to give you an idea of the light, which is much brighter higher up. Wild gladiolus and culinary ginger (dark leaf in middle) can be moved, native monarda fistulosa beebalm at left and liriope at right are duplicates and can go. Wooden support post to climb on just to left out of view, all support posts are in buried concrete which takes some space away from the plants. I can wrap wire around post & train rose. One concrete sidewalk in front of gladiolus and another sidewalk just barely visible as gray concrete area to the right, 2 ft square area for rose but probably good soil underneath concrete sidewalks. Possibly big enough? Thanks again, everyone, esp. for your patience since I have gotten OT from antique roses, much appreciated! River

I am not in Atlanta, and my pot is buried in the ground but I have a huge pot with Eden in it that I got from Pat at Roses Unlimited which has done exceedingly well. It is about 15-ft tall and very wide, even wider perhaps, has grown like gangbusters, blooms well, repeats often whereas my other Eden roses bloomed sparingly on their own roots and on Dr. Huey. It is a beautiful rose, albeit no fragrance, but JMHO, I think fragrance might be a signal in my area for all the insects and fungi to rally around and come destroy said invader. JMHO. I know 99.9% will disagree but it has worked for me in my meager and limited experience. Also another thumbs-up for Eden, is that it lived when the "blight" or whatever it was attacked and destroyed so many of my noisettes. Crepuscule, in the same vicinity, only a mere few feet away succumbed as did all my Champneys and Blush Noisettes in the same area which had previously done so well, but Eden was victorious through it all and blooming as I type, it's last fling of the season. I miss the beautiful Crepuscules that were so hugely prolific this time of year for perhaps 8 years or more. The large golden monsters, alas, are history.

Goodness , Arnie, that's a big ask. You've probably described the potentially hottest and harshest part of a yard, with pretty much direct sun for lots of the day, reflection off the fence / pool water and pavers and then the retained heat off the paving. And the notorious sometimes over 40 degree Perth summer's day. Whatever you plant would need sizeable containers and maybe some insulation of the pots themselves inside larger pots, plus an almost guaranteed supply of water (like a timer irrigation dripper system) , or they are kind of doomed from the start. Sorry, that's just my imagination working from your description. On the temp. criteria, I could only think of bouganvillea surviving but they are not going to cover a fence. I wonder if there is any way you can "cool down" that ugly fence in other ways first. Only if you own the place of course if you are renting it's back to square 1 If you own, then I was going to suggest you think about a cooling mural - maybe even get some local graffiti boys involved , to give you a tropical look. Take that hot shine off the fence and then perhaps a few tubs of palms like golden canes, or even some pots of non-invasive bamboo/ tiger grass - and then intersperse your big planters of things like ... well jasmine might go OK, or mandevilla on trellises. Pandorea are hardy, too ) there's the white as well as the native pink.

absolutely, John Innes is a great base but on its own, it gets a bit claggy and loses structure on its own so if you can find Levington's 'Jack's Magic' or any of the New Horizon composts, or grit or perlite, it will help with aeration and drainage. Up to a quarter of the JI can be replaced with a compost mix (or leafmould) or any of the mineral amendments (clay hydroleca, chick flint, horticultural grit, perlite, vermiculte et al). I would also use a good proportion of garden soil which, as well as equalising (to some extent) the difference between pot and garden soil, it also has the added advantage of being teeming with microlife (unlike bagged mixes which are sterile and inert). If you can scrape some soil from beneath a tree, there will be lots of arbuscular mycchorhizae which attaches to the root system, increasing surface area and uptake efficiency. Finally, I like the organic Osmo slow-release fertilisers (they do a good rose one) which you should find online (not many garden centres stock it). I get mine from Fargro or LBS horticultural supplies. A spring topdressing lasts all season.