We're still needing more information to help you. Please provide us a photo of your sink. Is thiis an undermount, drop-in, apron-front? It looks as though your sink has been installed already, but we cannot see how this roughly 1/4" discrepancy is affecting the sink measurements compared to the granite. Is this immediately noticeable to the eye without measuring? To remove a piece of granite such as would be around the sink that has already been adhered to the remaining countertop is going to be tricky and would probably not result in a solution that would not satisfy you without total replacement. Re-cutting the opening would be better. The fabricator might be able to pay for a new sink for you that would mesh with a new cut-out. If it's not immediately noticeable, you might wish to negotiate a discount for the work at this time. Is the opening itself not square or is the opening square and just skewed at an angle which would mean the opening fits the sink but the sink isn't lined up correctly to the edge? Have you paid in full yet?

Kaya the thing that turns Farmhouse or Modern Farmhouse into Industrial Farmhouse are components like heavier metals, metal trimmed out furniture with rivets, heavy beams, pulleys or industrial style wheels on furniture factory style light fixtures (your island pendents) etc. The term can be thought of this way. It is basically an old factory that is turned into housing but farm style added. If that makes sense. Exposed brick can be one, but this goes with several decor styles so I wouldnt want you to think , I love exposed brick that means I like industrial. I may not be describing this well so I googled definition and they say what I am but better LOL "Industrial farmhouse style combines comfortable and welcoming farmhouseatmosphere with the edgy, rugged lines of industrial style. Traditional industrial style is based on the concept of living in a factory or warehouse setting—picture a modernloft apartment in a big city." Some photos here rivets on hood, barn door, metal pendents, barstools, weathered island here exposed air ducts, island, lighting, windows and painted brick walls here metal and exposed beams, weathered brick wall, concrete island Here hood, weathered walls, heavy beamed island here weathered beams, metal trimmed weathered island, pendents, weathered flooring Hope this helps

If you're wanting a more rustic or mountain cabin look, you could use cedar with a natural wood finish but most country porches ended up being painted white. The posts are not larger than 6"x6" and many end up being smaller and round and more ornate with white railing (though I prefer the plain 6"x6" myself). Like these posts: http://acountryfarmhouse.blogspot.com/2012/06/our-front-steps-and-walkway.html You could extend the depth of your porch so that the overhang of the front of the porch roof extends to be even or nearly even with the two story left wing of the home and do consider a concrete porch floor-- it will last a lot longer. You create a block foundation/form, fill in with hard packed dirt and then pour a 6" floor that slightly overhangs the blocks ... which you can face with brick or stone. Then you can use the same brick or stone to enhance the curb appeal of your home and its new entry door. With the new door, showcase it with some great brick or stone steps at least as wide as the door. Since you need only a few steps and have a wall on the left side of the porch, consider starting the steps across from the front door so they are covered with the deeper porch roof and have the front of the bottom step even with the front of the front porch, adding a brick or stone wall between steps and the porch to the right of the steps that can be usable as a railing ... in lieu of adding an actual railing. On the right side of the porch consider adding a "gazebo" feature -- there are different kinds of roof designs you can use if you don't want to just use a hip roof corner -- and have the front porch wrap around that right front corner of the house at least enough to create the wider gazebo feature and add steps leading from the porch toward the back yard. https://www.pinterest.com/pin/112730796896550817/ If you're wanting rustic or mountain, you could use cedar with a natural wood finish but most country porches ended up being painted white. Know your local building codes. You may be required to have a railing or wall depending upon the height of the top of your porch floor. Depending upon the building codes and whether you have small children that actually need a rail ,,, since your porch is not that high off the ground, and especially if you add depth to the porch so there is less likely to be people bumping into each other knocking each other off the porch, you might consider just adding a hedge in front of the porch rather than replacing the railing. Alternately, if you do decide on a concrete floor with the front faced with brick or stone, you could create a brick or stone "railing" and even have it be able to double as seating or a wall usable for a plant stand for your favorite flower pots..

@Beverly @WestCoast Hopeful Oh my goodness, I love this porch idea SO much. It takes the porch and yard from two separate spaces to one big, friendly space. Our builder will 100% NOT do this for us, so we'd have to do it afterwards on our dime, but I love this transformative idea! We probably wouldn't lay concrete across the whole back, but maybe a smaller area with a gazebo or something. I stopped by the house this afternoon and walked around at ground level behind the house. (I haven't done this too much because we've had a lot of rain the last few months and it's super muddy.) When I was down there, I learned a few interesting things: First, the area that I thought was most usable -- directly below the porch -- is actually not the most usable. It has more of a slope than I thought. You can see it better here: It's still going to be useful, but the largest level part of the yard is in the corner where I was standing when I took this photo. Conveniently, this is also the area where the level part goes deepest towards the back of the lot, so it gives us the biggest usable level space. This slope right below the porch means that the big wide centered steps that @Beverly suggested would have to go out significantly further to actually reach the ground. It would probably consume most of the usable space below the porch. But that's more acceptable now that I know that the corner is the prime real estate in the yard. Here's another photo that might show the slope better: The other thing I learned is that the left side of the porch is actually not as high as it looked from above. Standing on the ground, the porch is slightly above my eye level, or about 5.5' up. And since the land keeps rising to the left, stairs going along the house would only have to cover about 5' vertically. We looked at the other stairs from our same builder and estimated that they're about 40 degrees from the horizontal. So one trig calculator later, and it looks like the stairs probably won't even come to the guest room window! So I think we'll go with the left stairs for now and then look into a set of fancy wide porch steps down the line. Thanks, everybody, for all your thoughts and suggestions! I'm really happy with the left stairs for now and the awesome stairs later.