In all likelihood, it's not an infection, rather, it's likely the plant's way of expressing its dissatisfaction with some or one of the cultural conditions under which it grows. I'll mention that low humidity can be a contributor to necrotic leaf tips and margins, but isn't something that should be treated as the primary cause. The primary cause usually lies in the triangle created by soil choice, watering habits, and the level of soluble salts in the soil. Soggy soil conditions and the low oxygen levels that accompany them when using highly water-retentive soils based on fine particles (peat, compost, coir, sand, composted forest products .....) impair root function, which inhibits the plant's ability to efficiently move water to the plant's distal parts, which would be leaf tips and margins. Accompanying that issue is the build-up of soluble salts from fertilizers and tap water that comes from watering in sips in order to stave off the impaired root function, or worse, the fungal infections that cause root rot. Unless you actively address the water retention of water-retentive soils, problems are virtually assured. There is no way around that issue - you either address the problem or endure its effects. There are 2 ways to address the issue, and watering less isn't one of them because it promotes the build up of salts. One way is to put mechanisms in place that reduce the amount of perched water a soil can hold. It's not the best way, but it offers some relief, and I can direct you to some information that will help you deal with water-retentive soils if you like. The best way, by far, is to eliminate the problem issue that created the limiting triangle in the first place by adopting a soil that allows you to water copiously at will, w/o the fear of root rot. This is achieved by increasing the particle size of your soil ingredients so at least 75-80% of the particles are larger than about 1/8". In most cases, this can be best achieved by STARTING with a large % of pine bark as your soil base, or by combining other ingredients that yield a chunky or gritty soil of predominantly larger particles. These soils don't support significant volumes of soggy soil at the pot bottom, which allows you to water correctly (so you're regularly flushing accumulating salts from the soil) w/o concern for impaired root function or root rot, the former being by far the most likely reason for the spoiled foliage on your plant. I don't know how interested you are in finding out more about what I just touched on, but the advantages of well-aerated and free-draining soils extend well beyond the points I just mentioned. Let me know what you think, or wait for a second opinion if you think that might suit your needs better. Best luck. Al

I grow mine in the ground here in Florida. So I would think the care would be the same as a potted plant, except the mixture should be a fast drain like a peat mixture kinda like pro-mix or better yet the Ausie-mix. When they go into a winter rest be careful to cut the watering down to only a few times a month or the root will die. If you grow any other ground type orchid with a winter rest the care sould be the same. Also water when the mixture feels dry, it will hold more water than orchids in bark if it stays too wet too long it will rot. I have lost a few when we have a heavy wet season, or a wet winter.

I'm just getting ready to plant some sweet pea seeds and in loosening up the soil I am finding large amounts of tiny fiberous roots. (I guess that's what you call tiny roots that almost form a mat?) The two plants that currently sit next to this area are a Rozanne Geranium (hardy type I believe,) and a large vine. My guess is the roots belong to Rozanne. Any problem in digging up a bunch of them? I just planted Rozanne in the spring and recently gave her a big haircut. Thanks, Ginny

They are not proliferations but branches. They come from a leaf node on the branch although I've never seen 2 coming out in one place. I don't know about them sapping the plants energy but it does not hurt to remove them and may help. I bring some Geraniums inside every fall and let them grow under lights until spring. Then take cuttings. I plant all cuttings and mother plants outside after removing them from the pots they grew in and planting them in the ground or other pots. Your plant is pretty bushy and it looks like it overfills the pot and is not as dark green as those small ones nearby. If that's the same pot it grew in last summer the soil may be depleted and it may be pot bound. Maybe that's the reason your plant stopped blooming. I'd move it to a larger pot with fresh soil or do it when you move it outside