Cologuard test result was positive
7 years ago
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Soil Test Results are In
Comments (35)Cass, yes, it makes perfect sense. If the soil can't take up nutrients because of the high soluble salts, then why add them. I do use some Scott's products but I've never seen Terracyle around here. Good sense of humor :) Mike Rivers, OK, you made my brain hurt but I get it--that's a lot of water ;-) michaelg, that's good to know. Maybe I should add some nitrogen to the ones that I'm hoping to show, at least. I can find urea pretty readily, and I won't be taking the chance of adding more soluble salts. gardenfanatic, you're right, I'd forgotten about the soil forum. I'll check it out. I could put down some alfalfa tea--meal or pellets have never seemed to do anything for me but the tea does. But of course, I was always adding MG to it ;-) I could try fish emulsion, too, I suppose, although the one and only time I did that raccoons dug up the roses looking for the fish. windeaux, I know Felder is highly respected, but wouldn't I be in a pickle if I hadn't done the soil test? I was going on the ASSUMPTION that my soil was ALKALINE instead of ACIDIC and that was what was causing my chlorosis. I'd have made matters worse if I hadn't gotten the soil test and then read them ;-) Sorry, Felder. Guys, this is really getting to be an education. I'm still thanking each and every one of you for your input. My roses will thank you too. I just realized something when I was walking outside a few minutes ago. I have 4 Aloha and have yet to get a decent bloom this year from any of them--every one--and there have been a lot considering I'm keeping 3 of them pruned as shrubs and one is climbing but in some shade--has had severely vegetative centers--to the point where I've been seriously considering shovel pruning them. There are several new buds that are looking good since I've stopped the twice monthly feedings. Coincidence? Perhaps not, we'll see. Thanks again and again! Barbara...See MorePositive mold test results, but no mold or moisture!
Comments (3)I'm willing to go a bit further. Many "mold experts" are basically scam artists. Not all of them, but many. Just like "duct cleaners". Every house has mold spores in it. Including "toxic mold". Did this "mold inspector" tell how *much* mold there was in the air? If there's a lot of airborne mold, that would be an indication that you might have a hidden water problem.. but if there's just a small amount, it's perfectly normal and NOT a problem. Do you know what the *outside air* mold counts for your region, in the summer, when it hasn't rained recently, are? If not you can't make a valid comparison with indoor levels. Attic ventilation can help. If nothing else, it will dilute the air so it tests better, which should calm your buyers down. Shouldn't cost too much to put some "whirlybird" ventilators in as pjb recommended....See MoreOff to get the results of all my tests...
Comments (15)For all the cheer you dispense at the KT (and Facebook, too!), I am practically vibrating with the good vibes I'm sending your way!!...See MoreHelp with Logan Lab soil test results
Comments (3)It's not bad, really, but you do have several issues. Let's go through step by step. Exchange Capacity: 7 is fine, and indicates a sandier soil with silt--and very little clay. You can increase your organic matter levels to slowly raise this a bit. Organic Matter: 2.17% is low but not abysmal. Feed organically when you can to slowly raise this. It'll also make your pH matter less. Bermuda's demanding, and this year will include a lot of starter fertilizer. Still, you can add in an extra organic feeding whenever you like to increase this. The grass won't mind the extra nitrogen. Sulfur 27: Right in the normal range, with plenty of margin for soil amendments (which tend to be sulfur based). Phosphorus 65: And right on cue, here's an issue. Phosphorus should be around 200 for a normal pH and for Bermuda. This is severely impacting grass quality. My recommendations are below. Calcium 54%: Low, we'll want this in the 65% range for Bermuda. Because magnesium levels are normal, we'll need to use a calcitic lime like Mir-A-Cal or Encap. Cheap lime is going to destroy the calcium-magnesium ratio. Magnesium 12%: Exactly where it should be, no adjustment required. Potassium 3.4%: While a touch trim, it's nothing to worry about. With all the other adjustments, I'm content to let this ride another year. Most Minor Elements: Fine except boron... Boron <0.2: Deficient, and this is also impacting your grass quality. While I wouldn't normally adjust the minor elements while also doing two major ones, this is an exception to that rule. To adjust boron, mix the recommended number of tablespoons of 20 Mule Team Borax (available in the laundry section of your supermarket) in 1 bag of Milorganite (Home Depot or other retailer) in a wheelbarrow. Keep mixing until fully distributed, then put in your spreader and apply at exactly the recommended rate. One bag of Milo covers 2,500 square feet. Don't overapply; boron can be an issue if amounts go too high, although the levels I have you set at will be fine at any reasonable error level. Iron 123: While this is certainly not deficient, you may notice the color of your lawn fades a bit as the calcium works in and the pH rises (higher pH levels block iron absorption). If that's disappointing, you can slip in extra feeding with Milorganite whenever you want to add more iron and deepen the color. Recommendations: I'm guessing for Georgia and Bermuda that the grass is back and functional around mid-April. That might be wrong, so if so, just shift the feeding with starter fertilizer around appropriately. Just keep 2 weeks between any feeding and a soil amendment, so this schedule has a great deal of flexibility in it. I'm also guessing last feeding will be around October 15. April 1: Apply 4 pounds per thousand square feet Encap or Mir-A-Cal calcitic limestone. April 15: Feed with any off the shelf starter fertilizer at bag rate. May 1: Apply 7.5 tablespoons borax in Milorganite per 2,500 square feet. May 15: Starter at bag rate. June 15: Starter at bag rate. July 15: Feed with a high-nitrogen fertilizer. August 15: Feed with a high-nitrogen fertilizer. September 1: Apply 4 pounds per thousand square feet Encap or Mir-A-Cal calcitic limestone. September 15: Starter at bag rate. October 1: Apply 7.5 tablespoons borax in Milorganite per 2,500 square feet. October 15: Starter at bag rate....See More- 7 years ago
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