Cologuard test result was positive
schoolhouse_gw
4 years ago
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Surprise Soil Test Results
Comments (41)Your soil should have a humus level of between 6 and 8 percent, many times soil test labs seem to think anythning over 5 percent is too much. Here ae some simple soil tests you can do that can help. 1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains� too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. Since "topsoil" is the top 4 to 6 inches of soil it can be anything, so before purchasing any take a good look at what you are getting. We have a company here that is dredging the eons accumulaion of organic matter from the bottom of one of our lakes, mix that with sand and some lime (they send samples in for pH testing and then tell you that soil is state tested) and then sell that to landscape supply companies that sell it as "topsoil"....See MoreSoil Test Results are In
Comments (35)Cass, yes, it makes perfect sense. If the soil can't take up nutrients because of the high soluble salts, then why add them. I do use some Scott's products but I've never seen Terracyle around here. Good sense of humor :) Mike Rivers, OK, you made my brain hurt but I get it--that's a lot of water ;-) michaelg, that's good to know. Maybe I should add some nitrogen to the ones that I'm hoping to show, at least. I can find urea pretty readily, and I won't be taking the chance of adding more soluble salts. gardenfanatic, you're right, I'd forgotten about the soil forum. I'll check it out. I could put down some alfalfa tea--meal or pellets have never seemed to do anything for me but the tea does. But of course, I was always adding MG to it ;-) I could try fish emulsion, too, I suppose, although the one and only time I did that raccoons dug up the roses looking for the fish. windeaux, I know Felder is highly respected, but wouldn't I be in a pickle if I hadn't done the soil test? I was going on the ASSUMPTION that my soil was ALKALINE instead of ACIDIC and that was what was causing my chlorosis. I'd have made matters worse if I hadn't gotten the soil test and then read them ;-) Sorry, Felder. Guys, this is really getting to be an education. I'm still thanking each and every one of you for your input. My roses will thank you too. I just realized something when I was walking outside a few minutes ago. I have 4 Aloha and have yet to get a decent bloom this year from any of them--every one--and there have been a lot considering I'm keeping 3 of them pruned as shrubs and one is climbing but in some shade--has had severely vegetative centers--to the point where I've been seriously considering shovel pruning them. There are several new buds that are looking good since I've stopped the twice monthly feedings. Coincidence? Perhaps not, we'll see. Thanks again and again! Barbara...See Moresoil test results
Comments (12)You may find this piece from Prof Tim Smalley UGA re mulch interesting. Butch Your questions on the use of organic matter to improve soils has been the focus of most of my academic life. I have studied the effect of organic matter on the growth of trees, shrubs, and annuals. I have not studied organic matter effects on hosta, but I think that I can extrapolate. I was asked a similar question as part of a panel at a recent garden symposium in Blairsville. Will Corley, the retired guru of organic matter, sat on the panel with me and agreed with my answer. Adding organic matter to planting holes (vs large beds.) Research in Minnesota, Florida, and Georgia has indicated no benefit. Trees and shrub beds. I do not recommend adding organic matter to landscape beds of trees and shrubs. The organic matter breaks down so rapidly that, in a few years, the level of organic matter in the soil is the same as it was before you added the organic matter. I have conducted many studies with red maple trees and viburnums to show that there is not benefit. The best practice is to disturb as much soil as possible and limit traffic on the soil afterward. And to mulch the surface. Annuals, I recommend amending the soil with organic matter. The organic matter may not increase the growth of the plants, but it will facilitate tilling the soil the next year or season when you replant the annuals. Of course, all organic matter is not created equally, and organic matter containing nutrients will increase growth. However, most bark products, our most common amendment, will decrease growth unless you use fertilizer. The microbes in the soil rob nitrogen from the plants, as they break down the wood contaminants in most bark products. Chicken litter products and mushroom compost are great. In all the studies that I have done, tilling the soil and adding water and fertilizer has produced annual beds that match any of the amended beds. But my students know the next year which beds had organic matter added to them, as they till so easily. Perennials. I recommend using organic matter to facilitate redigging the beds and dividing the plants in three to five years. If you don't plan to redig the bed, I don't think that amendments are worth the cost or effort. I know that some landscapes have award-winning perennials beds without amending the soil. Again, if you add an organic matter that includes nutrients, the plant will benefit from the nutrients. I like the statement about planting on the surface. In wet soils like we have, planting on the surface and covering with mulch may be the best idea. The roots don't stay as wet, and they are less prone to disease problems. I have watched extraordinary soils develop under woody mulch or even just logs or pieces of firewood. The best soil that I ever saw in my yard was underneath a woodpile of sweet gum. Organisms worked the organic matter into the soil. However, when the pile disappeared, the wonderful soil began to disappear as the source of organic matter had been removed. The lesson is to place the organic matter on the surface, don't mix it into the soil. Be sure that you continuously add organic mulch, but do not overdo it as you might suffocate the roots. I believe that a plant "creeps" then "leaps" because it is getting its root system established. When its root system starts tapping more water and nutrients, it can support more growth. Many woody plants rely on carbohydrates stored during the previous year and on buds produced during the previous year for the current year's growth. When the plant can continue photosynthesizing as it has the roots to not be limited by water stress, then it can store the carbohydrates and produce the buds for next year's growth. Your email posed a great question. I think that I will carry your question into the upcoming oral exam of my Ph.D. student and see how he answers it. Please let me know if you have any questions. His further response: Quote: You have my permission to share my reply. In essence, the benefits of one-time additions of organic matter to the soil are short lived, particularly in the Southeast. Continuously (yearly or seasonally) adding organic matter, like to annual beds and vegetable gardens, can have marked effects on the friability of the soil and the ability of the soil to hold nutrients. Many people have questioned some of my recommendations as almost heresy, and often they provide an anecdotal example of the benefit of incorporating organic matter. I always ask them if they ran a comparison or a controlled study (not using organic matter) and invariably they have not. I draw my conclusion from controlled studies that I have conducted (in piedmont clay and coastal sand) and from studies that I have read about, which were conducted by my scientific colleagues. Also, remember that if there are nutrients in the amendment, the plant can benefit from the nutrients. Enjoy your gardening. Tim...See MorePositive mold test results, but no mold or moisture!
Comments (3)I'm willing to go a bit further. Many "mold experts" are basically scam artists. Not all of them, but many. Just like "duct cleaners". Every house has mold spores in it. Including "toxic mold". Did this "mold inspector" tell how *much* mold there was in the air? If there's a lot of airborne mold, that would be an indication that you might have a hidden water problem.. but if there's just a small amount, it's perfectly normal and NOT a problem. Do you know what the *outside air* mold counts for your region, in the summer, when it hasn't rained recently, are? If not you can't make a valid comparison with indoor levels. Attic ventilation can help. If nothing else, it will dilute the air so it tests better, which should calm your buyers down. Shouldn't cost too much to put some "whirlybird" ventilators in as pjb recommended....See Moreschoolhouse_gw
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