Thank you both so much! Greenman28: Now you mention "Gritty mix or 5-1-1"...what are those? Are they a description for mixes you (or I) would have to mix ourselves by buying the ingredients separately? Or is that something pre-bagged i can buy? Gardengal48: THANK YOU! If it was me searching/buying the ingredients I would have no issue at all buying them and mixing my own mix, but because in my current circumstance i am relying on a family member to buy the mix for me, it is fantastic to hear about a bagged mix! So its http://www.kellogggarden.com/products?brand=gardnerbloome&category=gardnerbloome-soils#5 or http://greenhousegardencenter.com/Master Nursery Catalog.htm (scrolled half way down "Acid Planting Mix") ? I hope my local nursery (Sky Nursery) carries one of those cause that would make it so much easier! Now when you use that, what do you use for a mulch on-top of the soil? Also is this perfect to use when germinating seeds? Because remember i am not only needing to re-pot my trees into 1gal pots, but i am going to be growing JM from seed and so i'll need soil for that as well, so if i can use that for seeds as well that is fantastic. (I thought manure wasn't recommended for JPN MPL's? I read the specs for the Acid Planting Mix and it says it has: chicken manure, and bat guano) Just called Sky-Nursery, they said they used to use Gardener & Bloome but found it too rich so they now carry and use EB-Stone mixes and for my use they recommended: http://www.ebstone.org/13_azalea.php Any thoughts? (Here's whats in EB-Stone Azalea Mix: Contains: Composted Fir Bark, Sphagnum Peat Moss, Redwood Compost, Mushroom Compost, Volcanic Pumice Stone, Earthworm Castings, Bat Guano, Kelp Meal, Feather Meal and Gypsum) Here's what i got so far: 1) Potting mix: EB-Stone Azalea Mix 2) I'm thinking this mulch for 1" bottom of container: http://www.lowes.com/pd_109329-1802-CARY30P_0__?productId=3156693#BVRRWidgetID And this mulch for top 1" of container: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Terrace-Mulch-4-qt-Terrace-Mulch-Cypress-Mulch-Resealable-Bag-MULCH3359CYP/203920301#.UbvAw9jNkSo Feel free to give your opinion on if that's good or not good, if you know of a different type that's way better. (The idea being a shredded mulch for the bottom of the container to help with drainage and a bigger chip-style mulch for the top layer to provide heat/moisture insulation/retention and good aeration) This post was edited by M3rc_Nate on Fri, Jun 14, 13 at 21:49

How about an update on what happened! Did you have to replace anything, and was it all still under warrantee? Know that new trees roots need "Dry time" in between deep watering. And unlike new rolled out sod, one can overwater new tree causing anaerobic conditions. Its good to hear person posting question, already knows all about planting from personal past experience. So here is a question for you. Were you aware that one must at least pull back burlap on top of B&B stock, to find where top most roots of root flare dive into rootball? And that in most regions, 99% of Nursery trees are delivered already too deep in rootball? Caused by poor uppotting methods. So any good gardener planting perennials, especially long lived types like woody bushes and trees. Must be able to perform "Root flare excavations"! In fact one of most beneficial things one can do for a tree, is to sweep any accumulated organic matter away from root flare each April. Here in Illinois, our Planting and stewardship committee has begun working with any big box retailers who sell plants and trees. With the goal to have a special tag included with any perennials instructing purchasers on how to prepare stock to properly install. Such as teasing out and removal of any circling roots, and how to determine depth of dug hole by first locating root flare level. My idea goes further, by requiring any perennial sold to be in specialized containers that include printing of planting instructions on sides. And an even better idea, I think...is to have a machine in every garden center that can shave off outside roots, like pencil sharpener. I cannot tell you how many times I find garden owners throwing out root bound plants that died off. Even if planted by landscapers, who just install tops of rootballs level with grade. So much so, that I have coined the term "Perpetually juvenile landscapes"! With all the new public trees installed to replace Ash trees sacrificed to EAB event. As an Openland's Volunteer TreeKeeper authorized to perform maintenance to any Chicago public or park tree. I have become addicted to saving lives of improperly installed trees. But even more excitingly, by unburying root flare back to original grade tree was born at. I am also releasing its full potential! Imagine, this temporary forged relationship between young tree and human during long lived organisms formative years. Can literally become biggest most influential effort on behalf of planets ecology. Since many ecosystems are named after trees, which are systems most influential species types. Meaning just one individual tree reaching full maturity age of 135 or more can be an urban city neighborhoods ecosystem.

Hi Christina & David! Sorry, I don't know anyone on the DBG horticulture staff. You might want to stop in the Library first (or call them in advance)--the head librarian (Deb) is very helpful. There used to be a gentleman named George Brinkmann, a retired horticulturist with many years of experience in this region, who held public "office hours" in the library a couple of days a week on Tues & Thurs early in the afternoon. However, I think he had some health problems and had to give that up last year, but maybe he's returned, or else maybe they've found a replacement for him. Other than those people, you might just get lucky and run into somebody knowledgeable about maples while you're in the gardens near those plants. I meant to mention before that my garden soil tests as very close to neutral Ph. I have heard the statement that soils here are quite alkaline, but I think that's a generalization. In addition, I personally favor making moderate amendments with peat and compost to tip things a bit more toward acidity if that's favorable for the plant. Almost any plant's roots will eventually spread into "native soil" but I'd rather the new plant be a little happier when it's first getting established, and I don't think I overdo the amendments. (I know there are other "camps" on this issue.) Yes, I'm going to take that magnolia back to Tagawa and get a refund. I'm not sure how they can sell trees at 50% off and still give a year's guarantee, unless many people don't bother claiming their refunds; I think they do ask you to bring them the dead tree! BTW, I'm sure there are various other places that sell JMs near here, and at more attractive prices--esp. "big box" stores, but they're less likely to have the unusual we sometimes need and crave. I'm fascinated by microclimates myself, but unfortunately I've been able to find very little written about the subject. From what I've been able to gather, there seem to be two aspects to plant hardiness. The easier one to deal with, probably, is the root zone temperature environment. I've read that damage starts to occur there at temps lower than 28 F. A good mulch layer can protect against this potential damage, and a nice layer of snow can do even better. However, cold air temperatures below some point will damage stems and branches, the point depending on the hardiness of the species. I think that's why some marginally-hardy trees are sometimes referred to as "stump-sprouts"--most of the above-ground parts of the plant die but the root system doesn't (at least for a number of years). Of course dessication is a separate problem for above-ground plant parts, especially in this sunny-winter climate. Other than the most general principles and trial-and-error, it seems difficult to predict microclimates. There are so many factors involved besides topography. For example,the influence of a building to the north of a plant may be very different depending on the building's height, mass, color (solar absorption) and configuration. Also, if one is depending on stored solar heat being radiated at night from a building face, it will make a big difference whether the days following the initial cold wave are sunny or cloudy, still or windy. Another aspect of the problem is how far away the influence of a building is felt and how fast the influence drops off with distance. I know of a student who is investigating this question at the U. of Denver near some of the larger buildings on the campus, but I haven't heard any of the findings yet. Christina, if you go, I'd like to hear your reaction to the various maples at the DBG!

A little update -- I've gone a little crazy over here, although by what I have read on the Maples forum, I may just be getting started... I now have 7 Japanese Maples, 3 in pots, and 4 in the ground. These are the cultivars I'm growing: --Bloodgood --Emperor 1 --Seiryu --Butterfly --Orangeola --Inaba Shidare --Sango Kaku I'm happy to report that my bloodgood is putting on all kinds of new growth and seems to be adjusting after an early summer windy week that turned its leaves brown. Also, I'm growing my Orangeola, Butterfly and Seiryu in full sun and they are also all putting on new growth. I'm planning to wrap the trees that are in the ground to protect them from our winter wind. I have planted a row of Junipers to protect them, but these are not quite tall enough yet. I am interested to hear from other people in Colorado what they do for the winter, which cultivars work in what locations, etc... I have generally found people at nurseries to be skeptical, and most of the information available to be quite conflicting in terms of conditions, etc... and I realize that the environments vary so much that this is naturally the case. However, I think those of us willing to experiment in Colorado, might learn a lot from each other experiences. I'm also looking forward to shaping over the winter. I have finally picked up Vertrees Japanese Maples book, and another by Hobson about pruning and shaping called "Niwaki". Both of these are excellent resources, and while I had heard about Vertrees (THE book on Japanese Maples) the other was new. Niwaki is a fantastic explanation for pruning, shaping, and working with your trees to achieve the effects of the Japanese Gardens. In fact, it explains exactly how to do it... Anyhow, I'm also excited that I have 4 seasons of gardening rather than the 2-3 of the standard western garden. Fun! I look forward to hearing updates from any of you willing to share.. and I'll post some pictures of everything above laster this week. Tom