Cycle sequences and temps depend on the model machine involved and the target sales market (US/Canada, NZ/Aus, European, Orient), and the details may vary a little throughout the production of a given series (control board revisions). The best reference is via the specific user guide packed with a given machine. F&P has some user guides online but not for all older models. I have a few "historical" user guides and service docs. Citing my US-market DD603 bought 8 years ago: Heavy 132 mins -- prewash, rinse, rinse, main wash 150F, rinse, rinse, final rinse 163F Heavy Eco 112 mins -- prewash, rinse, main wash 140F, rinse, rinse, final rinse 150F Normal 115 mins -- prewash, rinse, main wash 140F, rinse, final rinse 150F Normal Eco 88 mins -- prewash (or prerinse if no detergent), main wash 125F, rinse, final rinse 125F Delicate 86 mins -- prewash (or prerinse), main wash 120F, rinse, final rinse 130F Delicate Eco 72 mins -- prewash (or prerinse), main wash 115F, rinse, final rinse 125F Fast 56 mins -- prewash (or prerinse) main wash 115F, rinse, final rinse 115F Fast Eco 38 mins -- main wash 105F, rinse, final rinse 105F The newest models and some market areas may reduce cycle phases (such as eliminating the prewash/prerinse and starting directly with the main wash) and increase time to compensate.

Well, the news is not good. The new pump arrived. Taking the old one out and putting the new one in was uneventful. It worked right off, but was still dripping water all over the floor. I figured maybe my diagnosis was wrong, so I looked at it best I can with a flashlight and the machine tipped back and it still looks like it's dripping from the same place. Maybe I did not install it well, so I took the pump back off, thoroughly cleaned the two mating surfaces and applied a very light coating of grease (only where they touch), re-installed and exact same thing. Does the mounting plate/housing have a gasket that could be deteriorated and leaking? Since I am unable to observe while the machine is running I cannot tell exactly the point where the leak is, so I don't know if trying to get a better seal between the pump and plastic mounting area will help, or if it's somewhere else around that plate. All I can say for sure is that it does not look like it's coming from any hoses or hose connection points. When I tip the machine back the dripping is always down over the pump motor, so it's from just above the pump itself. Either I still have a bad seal with the installed pump or something in the metal plate/housing is leaking.

Shawn1972ut: "Front loader complaints of smell, long cycle times, inefficient rinses, poor electronic components, and failure rates at less than 5 yrs concerns me. " It is necessary to separate issues of front loader vs. top loader from issues of generations -- both generations of people and generations of manufacturing. The numbers would be difficult to aggregate, but, with a fair degree of certainty, it can be said that a majority of the automatic washing machines ever made have been front loaders. Front loading automatics have been around since the 1930s, but top-loading machines did not lose their mangles (those wringer arms that you see atop older top-loading washing machines) -- that is, they did not become automatic, until after World War II. Like tail fins on automobiles, top loading automatic washing machines became all the fad in the United States in the 1950s, but never caught on elsewhere in the world. In the United States, though, some consumers mistakenly think of top-loaders as "traditional." There is a high correlation between those who refer to top loaders as "traditional" and those who simply do not know what they are talking about. A couple of generations of housewives (that is not sexist, just the way society was organized), brought up on the post-WWII top loading machines, were educated to think that you need at least 40 gallons of water to wash a load of laundry. And that much water required at least a cup of laundry detergent; and if one cup is good, aren't two cups even better? When those consumers encountered later generation water-conserving front-loading washers, they continued to use their two cups of detergent per load, and that detergent overload is the source of a lot of the negative comments you see about front loading machines. Now, getting to your question, there are two kinds of "features" in washing machines. One kind of feature is choice of materials and construction techniques. Speed Queen washing machines are rightly often praised for construction quality largely because of choice of metal bearings in place of nylon bearings, heavier gauge steel where it counts, etc. The other kind of features are multiple selectable cycles, programability, LED screens, etc. You pays your money and you takes your choice. Personal opinion: one of the better "features" is a dimpled stainless steel drum. When a washing machine's drum spins for water extraction, fibers of the laundry inside the drum are drawn through the water drainage holes in the drum, and that accelerates fabric wear. Miele pioneered the "honeycomb" drum, with the drainage holes positioned in small domes in the drum surface to minimize the fabric pull-through. Samsung rather blatantly copied that feature in its "diamond" drum. So far as I am aware, no other maker has followed Miele and Samsung down that road. Our family, starting with my mother, has owned only four washing machines in over 75 years; they all have been front-loading washing machines. The first three lasted, on average, over 20 years each in moderately hard use. We purchased the fourth machine a few years back, and the deciding factor in our purchase was the dimpled drum design; we selected a Samsung over a Miele for price considerations. HTH.

Hi jalarse, No ours doesn't look like that. It's model 685/63 the grill looks like that. The controls and readout are inside the refrigerator section between the freezer door and the refrigerator. If that makes any sense. The unit will be 12 yrs old in Dec when the sealed system warranty runs out.. It's a bit disappointing since they are expected to last for 20 yrs and many people report longer. Yes I take the grill off and clean and vacuum the condenser coils. The fan motor runs fine. The tech told me they never fail; so much for that since you'rs apparently failed. I called SZ spoke to customer service. the 40 is an error code the EC is excessive run time. They told me how to reset it so that the error code disappears. If it flashes service again or brings up the error code, they suggested we have it worked on. It is now running quieter and seems fine with the exception the freezer is colder than they say it is supposed to be. They said the freezer should be set at 0 and it is not supposed to run colder. I think it always ran colder but......I never considered that bad for a freezer. This started right before Christmas of 2018 when I had the tech come to the house. So it ran just fine until now. Time will tell how long this will last. In another couple of months I'll be back in Fl. Hard to manage this long distance relaying msgs to my husband. Inga