Counters will be 1/2" taller than standard - Need to make decision
Ellen
5 years ago
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Beth H. :
5 years agoEllen
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Downdraft Cooktop Install - Do I need more than standard depth ba
Comments (14)Hi FoodJaunts, No, my cooktop is not the matching GE, it is a KitchenAid that I got from a scratch and dent dealer new, in a badly beat up box, but the cooktop did not have a scratch on it. It's MSRP was $2800 and we got it for $1200. Like you were planning, our blower motor is in the basement, so there is no need for a bigger base cabinet. So you are not flipping this house, you are buying it to live in, from a flipper, and because he has not yet done the work, he is willing to install the appliances of your choice if you pay the difference, right? If flickering gas was the only problem with downdrafts, I would say that getting an induction cooktop with a wok burner would be a good idea (they do make burners shaped like a bowl to accommodate a real round-bottomed wok). HOWEVER, my set-up does not pull grease and steam from the front burners. It gets most of the steam from something cooking on the back burner, however. I would not expect my set-up to work for stir frying. DH agrees, saying, "not unless it was a really short wok and really close to the downdraft!" Anyway, here is an inexpensive portable countertop induction wok burner: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UI882A/ref=asc_df_B004UI882A2252470?smid=A294BYNQDK07T&tag=nextagusmp0355811-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395105&creativeASIN=B004UI882A and a discussion about that burner and about cooking with woks using gas, electric, and induction that I found very interesting. http://www.cheftalk.com/t/68139/adcraft-wok-induction-burner I also found this expensive built-in separate wok burner: http://www.katom.com/084-MWDG1800.html?CID=Nextag&utm_source=Nextag&utm_medium=CSE&utm_campaign=CSE&zmam=29342707&zmas=1&zmac=3&zmap=084-MWDG1800 But look what Dacor is now making - a 15" high downdraft pop-up with up to 1000 CFM external remote blower. They show it on a serious gas range and talk about "capturing smoke and steam from all of the burners:" http://www.us-appliance.com/erv3615.html And Miele has one that rises 14": http://www.us-appliance.com/da64901000.html You can always look into getting the 48" downdraft with your gas cooktop, then put the induction wok burner beside the cooktop, right under the downdraft. The chef in the discussion likes the induction with the round wok bottom better than residential gas burners and a wok. So things are looking better in the downdraft department. I wish you the best of luck in your endeavor to find the right system to work for your family. Here is a link that might be useful: Built-in induction wok cooker...See MorePrep sink location decision #1 or #2 ..finalizing plans
Comments (15)Ravmd, your layout is very similar to mine (love my kitchen!), including windows wrapping around the corner. I plumbed my island for a sink, but in order to beat deadlines in getting our certificate of occupancy, I told the guys we'd put the sink in later. We never have. It's sitting on a shelf in the basement waiting for me to feel a need for it. My lovely deep 30" wide sink right where yours is serves well. In your position, I'd probably do just what I accidentally did here--keep my options open by plumbing for a prep sink toward one end or another (cheap and easy), but wait to see if I actually wanted a sink there at this time. My island's hard working, I don't maintain it for looks, but I do love the elegantly uncluttered expanse it presents when not covered with a a meal in progress. Also, my one kitchen splurge, aside from all the windows, was to have our carpenter build a custom hood over the stove. It is the focal view on looking into the kitchen (even before eyes move on to check out the view outside). All a way of saying that for me that key position was far too important for a microwave, which is not the most handsome item in any kitchen and we just use for heating and defrosting anyway. My hood insert, a bottom-market special order from Lowe's for...See MoreAre there any counter depth fridges that are wider than standard 36"?
Comments (19)"...36" between cabinets and island I believe..." I hope you're not saying it's 36" between the cabinets on the perimeter and the cabinets in the island. If so, you don't have a 36-inch aisle, you have a 33-inch aisle. What I hope you mean is that it's 36" between the items that stick out the farthest into the aisle on each side (other than the refrigerator, as you've already admitted you forgot about). Note that even that's 6" narrower than the minimum recommendation of 42" for a one-person (and always a one-person) work aisle (48" for two or more people working at the same time) -- assuming you're talking about a work aisle. The actual depth of a standard perimeter is 25.5" -- that includes the cabinet boxes (24" deep), doors/drawer fronts (1" deep), and counter overhangs (1.5" deep). The counter overhangs 1.5", so it covers the doors/drawer fronts. 24" + 1.5" = 25.5" The same counter overhang is on the non-seating sides of the island. Seating overhang should be a minimum of 15" of clear leg/knee space. If there are no workspaces or appliances behind the seats, there should be at least 44" behind the seats if you have a 15-inch seating overhang, more if the overhang is less than 15". If there are appliances or workspaces, then the aisle behind the seats should be 48" to 54", depending on how much thru-traffic there is....See Moredo I need more ovens than 1 combi-steam and 1 conventional convection?
Comments (22)The LaCanche looks really cool, but I'm a bit turned off by the non-standard widths. In a way, that's actually one of their biggest strength. In general, I feel the US probably has a bit of a leg up over Europe with regards to highly-functional kitchens. The prosumer trend started here and you can still tell that it is easier to build a highly-functional kitchen from American components. I have just gone through helping my brother design a new kitchen in Europe. Making it functional is of course possible; but it's more of an uphill battle than in the US, where vendors are more familiar with consumers asking for prosumer features. Having said that, there are a few things that IMHO the US market got wrong. And that's the "standard" size of their ranges. 30" is great. No doubt about that. 36" is not bad either and a lot of people really enjoy it. But any of the other sizes (48", 60", and 72") have greatly diminishing returns. The oven configurations feel awkward at that point, the larger stove top becomes somewhat less useful unless you start adding lots of special-purpose components, and the venting requirements are insanely complex. Maybe, 12" increments wasn't the best idea. On the other hand, Europe has 60cm (24"), 70cm (27"), 75cm (30"), 100cm (40") and 110cm (43") as some of their common dimensions; and then they can go much bigger as well, but that doesn't seem very popular. Personally, I find 100cm (40") or 110cm (43") looks really like the sweet spot for a larger range. It's big enough to allow nicer additional features and multiple ovens. But it isn't completely unwieldy just yet....See MoreM
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