A little down-market from what you've been looking at, I've been happy with my GE Profile. The main oven is very large, and the drawer underneath serves as a small second oven or warming drawer. Nice combination of burner sizes. The styling may not be what you're after, but it's very functional. Mine's a little over two years old and has had one problem: a hidden switch that prevents the second oven from being used during a self-cleaning of the main oven got stuck, disabling the second oven even after the cleaning cycle was over. I was able to fix it myself (and modify the part slightly to prevent the problem from recurring) without buying any replacement parts.

NXR is a basically a collection of parts. Service will be so so depending on where you are located and you are basically rolling the dice. Having sold a few of them, most of them worked perfectly. One of them did not, and that's where the nightmare began. Kitchenaid pro ranges are well rated, but not well received. Our chefs are currently using a kitchenaid (we rotate ranges) and generally don't like it, The burners aren't great for smaller pots and the ovens were uneven when baking. The DCS is currently not on rotation with us, but it's a solid platform that's been around for many years. The ovens are a bit smaller, but if it works for you, the tech is solid. Plus there are far fewer electronics to fail since there is no complicated control board. IMHO DCS is the choice among those 3.

We owned a 48” Thermidor for 14 years and regretted it for 12 of those years. We put at least $2,000 into replacement parts over that time. And yes the oven fans were very loud and near the end they would stop working and then my oven would stop working. I spent over two years researching ranges and reading hundreds of reviews. Finally we decided on the 48” RNB. We considered the Platinum but I had the same concerns as M concerning the heat coming from the back of the oven only and the constant fan blowing. Convection isn’t always the best for baked goods, bread, cakes, cookies etc. After reading some reviews on the pros and cons, I decided to go with the RNB. I have no regrets. The ovens are so quiet that I had to check to see if I turned them on. I was so used to hearing a loud fan that at first I thought something was wrong. Took a little getting used to the quiet. I love these ovens! My Christmas cookies all came out perfect; nicely browned outside and moist on the inside. Cheesecake, brownies, bread, and pizza have all baked beautifully. Meats and casseroles bake evenly and on time. My old Thermador has not baked evenly in a very long time and often stopped in the middle of baking. The RNB small oven does a wonderful job. Both ovens heat up quickly. My old small oven was useless. It took nearly an hour to heat up and twice as long to bake. I baked two 9 x 13 dishes at once in my small RNB on Christmas day and they were both finished at the same time. I could never do that in my Thermador. The ovens clean up easily, if you just take a few minutes to wipe up after a spill. I did want the higher burners of the Platinum but the oven made the difference. Also I did not need to move the griddle around. I would have like a grill to but we grill outside whenever we want so that isn’t an issue. The rolled steel griddle is like a restaurant and so much nicer than I expected. You can turn it on and leave it while you prep with no concerns. I went to a restaurant store and purchased a cleaning pad like they use in restaurants. Cleanup is easy. Something else I love is the removable steel trays underneath the burners and griddle. I just stick them in the dishwasher every couple of weeks and the look like new! I would never go back to a Thermador. I hope this helps.

Hood system requirements follow from the characteristics of cooking plumes, mainly their diameter, divergence as they rise, volumetric flow rate, and their velocity. The requirements somewhat vary with the design of the hood -- particularly the volume under the baffles that I will call the reservoir -- with horizontal baffle residential hoods representing one end of the configuration spectrum, and high pitched baffles within a commercial hood representing the other end. Pitched baffles seen in some residential hoods, such as Wolf Pro hoods, are an intermediate case that is closer to the horizontal configuration than the high commercial configuration. We start with the hood entry area. It should be large enough to encompass any plume from any burner and pan. Generally, a hood width of 6 inches beyond the range width is considered adequate for residential cooking. More refinement can be made from plume types and their divergence angles from the locus of potential pan areas, but for this message these details will be left unstated. So we get 48 + 6 inches as a desired width. Front to back depth should be a deep as available from residential units, although one can get custom/bespoke designs of almost any configuration. Assume that the hood aperture is 24 inches within a 27-inch hood (see Wolf Pro hood details). This hood, then, has an entry aperture area of 4.5 x 2 = 9 square feet and should be adequate up to 36 inches above the pans. (Note that I am working with a wall hood here and not an insert into a cabinet like structure. What is available for such applications may not meet what is desirable in hood entry aperture sizing.) We need the airflow to be sufficient to deal with entraining the plumes into the baffle flow. Worst case, this could be calculated from potential plume sizes and velocities, but given that residential hoods with low reservoir volumes cannot average plumes across the entire baffle space, some approximations are needed to achieve adequacy. The one I like that is derived, in a sense, from the Greenheck method (https://www.tagengineering.ca/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/KVSApplDesign_catalog.pdf) is to assume that the baffle gap area is half the aperture area, and that the effective plume velocity can be 3 ft/s (peaks to 1.2 m/s have been observed). This leads to a need for 180 ft/min in the baffle gaps, or 90 ft/min across the aperture. No one here building to that standard has yet complained about inadequate flow, so we will go with 90 ft/min. 90 ft/min x 9 sq. ft. is 810 CFM. That is the desired actual flow rate at full blower power. Blowers are rated for free air (zero static pressure) performance, and this will need to be about 1.5 times the requirement to make up for (at a minimum) baffle pressure loss. In this case, the result is a 1200 CFM blower. Poor MUA pressure balance may lead to a higher requirement. An internal blower will not be quiet at this level. An external blower just outside the mounting wall will be barely quieter, unless an even more powerful motor is used at reduced power. Best quieting with standard residential components is a roof blower with a large enough duct and an intermediate silencer. Note that internal blowers are limited by the space available, while external blowers can grow larger, but compatibility with hood controls could be an issue. Roof vs. in-line in the attic is a matter of many small details I don't have time to address. In common residential applications the level of grease deposit on ducting and external motor parts is relatively low, and what grease there is tends to rancidify and turn to varnish. If grease is deposited on a roof, UV sunlight will likely decompose it. A shaded wall mount might show grease on the wall that isn't decomposed, and which will need occasional cleaning. Commercial applications require grease capture at the blower, in addition to at the baffles. In general, I would expect that you would only need to clean the hood baffle assemblies (usually in a dishwasher) and wipe out the hood interior. I can't price different configurations. I use a roof blower. MUA in households is considerably more painful to deal with than in commercial spaces. There is the issue of yet more ducting, location of diffuser(s) to supply the air, possible additional blower and control system, filtering, and heating. If you search here on 'MUA" and 'kaseki' you should find a lot of messages dealing with different aspects of this that you can generalize from, or, if you find an impediment, ask about a specific issue. There are aspects of this quest that I can't answer for you. In particular, you will be working in a trade space that includes cost and aesthetics. High performance and good looks will not be compatible with low cost. You have to find the balance that best fits your circumstances.