The opening has to be truly plumb and square. If it isn’t, it won’t fit.

Measure diagonals to check for right angles

That was one of my worst fears on my remodel. My parents ran into this because their opening for the fridge was exactly right, but their floor was not level. So the fridge (standing oh so slightly tilted) would not fit. Took forever to get sorted out.

I'm not saying that is your problem, but might be worth a check. Is the floor dead level? A short level will help you test that (the kind you use for hanging pictures). I would be pissed if they got sloppy and made the fridge wrong, what a huge PITA.

Now put a level on the floor. If the fridge is trying to roll in at an angle because of a sloping floor, and the alcove walls are straight, it won’t work. Also check any water lines and electrical cords as barriers.

If you have a filler on one side, cant you just narrow the filler? You could trim 1/8” off. The easiest way to verify correct opening width is cutting a 2x4 to length and running it along the entire opening. If your opening passes that test, and your wall sides and floor are plumb and level you should be good to go.

OP said fridge actually measures 36 1/8". No amount of perfectly square, plumb, and level 36" opening will allow that to fit. Make a bigger space, or choose a smaller fridge.

LOL!, Son of ODIN,

If GE says their fridge fits a standard 36" opening, then it better be so. Them saying the dimensions are approximate, won't fly.

Demand a full refund and find a different brand fridge that not only promises to fit that standard opening, but actually does so.

As to level and plumb: It is vital. You say your surround cabs have been installed perfectly, That's great, now check how level the floor is in the opening. Check it sideways as well as front to back etc. This will help adjusting the fridge legs accordingly, before you try to push it in. I promise you though, it will take some trial and error, and several adjustments of the fridge legs, to position those heavy fridges correctly.

Did you actually measure the fridge?

How did it fit halfway into a 36" opening then? If it's 36 1/8" then it wouldn't fit at all.

Or is the opening 36" at the narrowest point and more than that elsewhere (and maybe less than that somewhere else)?

Son of ODIN - I have the very saw! Only the cordless version, love it. I use it for pruning small branches, etc. (with pruner blade).

I would stand my ground concerning delivery of wrong frig. i.e. model number. Just went through this a couple months ago, only my frig is not inside a cabinet, still a PITA to get the dealer to refund and re-order.

greg 2015 has made a very good point.

Did you measure your opening width at the front and back? At the top, middle and bottom, as well ? Since, if the 36 1/8" (as per your measurements) fits halfway in, then maybe your opening isn't as level and plumb from front to back as you thought...

Still, if the fridge's width really is > 36", you're owed a full refund.

I know this may seem like I'm nit-picking, but I'm finding it hard to believe that the manufacturers approximate sizing is that far off.

When you pushed the fridge in and it got stuck, is the tight point at the opening where the hinge area is? Or is the pinch point at the back? Or is it hitting the front on one side and the back on the other?
Are you sure that it's being pushed directly back and the opening is 90 degrees all the way to the back?

Are you witnessing this? Or is this what your contractor is telling you?

How are you measuring 36 1/8 at the hinge point? Or is that a guess because you measured the back at 36" and then it seems to get wider because it's getting stuck.

I can see measuring the back and measuring the front. But how are you measuring mid-way?

I'm not convinced that the fridge is the problem.

Edited to add: Bottom-line is that it may just be cheaper to return the fridge and get a different one. But the question is if your contractor has any responsibility in the matter. It's in his best interest to blame the manufacturer.

The hinges are not meant to fit inside the alcove, so I am confused as to how that is affecting the carcass fitting into the alcove. Perhaps some pictures to illustrate would be helpful.

Humor aside, it may be easiest to cut down the filler.
[Probably not with the Sawzall.]

Based on your comment about the contractor shoe-horning it into the opening, something is up with the interior dimensions. Several people have chimed in about how and where to measure and check plumb/level. It seems to be getting caught about halfway into the cabinet.

I wouldn't just deal and shove it back in there. You won't have the clearances around the fridge for air flow and that can reduce the life of the fridge.

If you aren't able to change the opening, and the fridge is truly that far off from the manufacturer's own installation specifications, you need to shop for a different one and I wouldn't take no for an answer as far as returning it. Their own specs aren't valid. But, I do find it hard to believe that the fridge cabinet is that far off. It's much more likely that your opening is the issue.

I've been in this business for going on 36 years this august. I have seen a few times where the appliance is bowed out in places...usually the middle. And it's always refrigerators until just recently had an over the range microwave where the full overlay doors rubbed the microwave. Homeowner used J&K chinese cabinets...so buyer beware that J&K is a framed cabinet with less 'frame reveal' than most American brand full overlay cabinetry. You have to design with J&K as if they're frameless. But back to your refrigerator....I have seen them bowed out several times in the past. Hopefully the manufacturer or store will take it back. However, appliance companies, in the past, have told me "too bad". You need to have all appliances delivered and use the manual and measure the appliance for planning purposes. Who does that????

Let us know how it goes. Good luck!

No, everyone else cut the darn filler.

I charged a customer $300.00 to enlarge a cooktop opening to GE specifications. When the appliance arrived, it didn't fit; too large. I made another trip, no charge, cutting my rates in half. Never again. No appliance on site, no Joe for you.

GE doesn't care about you or me or what's written on their installation instructions.

Cut the filler. Save yourself a lot of grief, just...cut...the...filler.

All appliance manufacturers reserve the right to have size variances in their models. They reserve the right to change the specs and not tell you. This is why I prefer the appliances on site, even if the specs show things working out perfectly.

We ended up with a 9”H flip up cabinet above this refrigerator rather than a 12”H one. Math showed this working. It didn’t in the real world. “Standard sized” appliances still have variations in production. Yes, it “almost” fit. We still had to adapt and order the 9”H cabinet after everything else was in. Things happen on a job site. You have to adapt.

Gorgeous in Germantown · More Info

I personally would never design with a 1/8" each side for clearance. For this very reason. If I'm working with an appliance that says it's 35 3/4" I automatically jump to a 37" cabinet or wider & use filler/trim which can be resized. That or my client signs off otherwise. Seen too many problems like this.

It does say in their manual for 1/8" clearance each side. You can try going after GE, but I think it will be an uphill battle.

I wish you luck.

When we replaced our last refrigerator, the new one was slightly bowed. We got it into the space, but it put pressure on the pantry wall and we ended up having to plane the pantry shelves so that they would close smoothly. It’s made me very hesitant about buying another refrigerator down the road.

Sounds like you ordered through Home Depot. What do they say? (Or did you just look at their website and order elsewhere?)

Have you asked your contractor about sizing down the filler, as has been recommended? That seems like the best solution - are you pursuing that?

I would go to HD about returning the ref stating the sizing issue. Did they have that model on display? I would check the dimensions on that unit.

If you can, alter the cabinets, otherwise it sounds like you will need to measure ref. at the store.

I personally have not had this happen to me or my customers.

SO sorry this is happening to you.

I just ordered a GE Profile counter depth PWE23KSKSS, listed as 35.75 wide, to fit in a 36” wide opening. The OP’s situation has me a tad worried as the cabinets were set this week but the appliances don’t arrive for 4 weeks. It’s the builders parade home so I am sure they will try to work it through any fit issues. By the way, go ahead and post your issue on the GE website under product reviews, give them 1 or 2 stars, and they might play better if the bad news shows up in their own review section, which could scare off potential buyers. Most folks looking for the “bad” in an appliance read the 1 and 2 star reviews.

I don't know if this has been mentioned, but check to make sure that there isn't any bowing on the sides. We had that issue once and needed to replace a panel.

I can think of several ways to cut them in place ... and none would be sufficiently neat as to not be very noticeable. On the other hand, removing the fillers should be something that a skilled contractor can do. And then it's very easy to cut them cleanly with a good saw. In the worst case, you'd have to buy a new filler. That's not going to be all that expensive.

Afterwards, you could try taking the manufacturer to small claims. You stand a realistic chance to recover your money for the filler and/or contractor. But I'm not sure it's worth the very real hassle of fighting it in court. It'll take a good chunk of time.

Some of my cabinet vendors now offer standard sized 37" refrigerator wall cabinets. It's been great. Or you can order the cabinet with loose fillers or better yet: extended stiles (attached fillers) on both ends and have them specified at 1/2" to 1". Extended stiles CAN be cut on site but installers find it tricky. It will also depend if you have partial overlay, full overlay, frameless or inset (exposed frame) cabinetry.....as to which is the best way to order. A GOOD cabinet person will know the difference and advise accordingly. :-)

How far along are you in your cabinet install? Can you take a picture of that area so we can see it?

If there was a picture you could be advised adequately. Cutting the filler is only one issue. The cabinet above will have to be dealt with and may effect neighboring cabinets or create a gap. Without a picture it's just guessing.

Can you take a straight on picture of those cabinets and the opening. From the angle this picture is, the opening looks wider at the top and narrower at the bottom and it looks like the cabinets on the right, are not quite level up and down. Also in case you havent noticed it, the doors on those cabinets on the right, are slightly out of adjustment. Your contractor needs to do some adjusting there. Also if you have a longer level, put it against the refrigerator side of those cabinets, in several places and see if it shows that set of cabinets, level, or un level. If un level, then that is your problem, getting the frig into the opening.

You should be able to remove that filler between the pantry & fridge upper, cut off what is needed up to where it meets the fridge upper & then reinstall it. Not a perfect solution but at this point you don't have a lot of options.

PS...this is assuming that the filler is not integral to the pantry & can be removed

If it is as it appears from the picture the face frame/filler on either side is not flush with the cabinet boxes on either side but offset into the opening creating a smaller opening than the boxes themselves then this can be trimmed in place by removing the doors and using a small hand-held trim router and straight edge set up. The last tiny bit at the top will have to be cleaned up with a sharp chisel. Someone with moderate skills can do this. Attaching the straight edge is the only tricky part but it could be fastened to the floor with a block, clamped above, strong double sided tape or some other way depending on whats behind there. Taking this apart will create a mess and will effect the cabinet above. This was everything stays intact. I know I could do this I build cabinets everyday but it's not that difficult.

Looking at your picture, I think this can be trimmed in the field by a skilled contractor. It's a little hard to tell for sure, as pictures can be misleading. But I'd give it 80% confidence that this can be sorted out satisfactorily.

This is an old thread, but I thought I would share my GE refrigerator fit without issue, model PWE23KSKSS, so not all built were a bit squished out in the middle. Looking forward to using it next week. One of the worst building Spring ever in the upper Midwest, non-stop rain led to numerous delays.