Job hunting in the 21st century
msmeow
5 years ago
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Kitchen in early 18th century house
Comments (18)In your situation, especially if the workflow of the kitchen is decent and the current appliances don't look bad, I'd put in beautiation rather than a new kitchen. Was the room originally the kitchen? If so, is there a hearth? If you put some period-look accessories there, cast iron andirons, old ash bucket, etc., and paint the walls an appropriate color, that will go a long way. If there's any open wall space, that's also a good opportunity to take down your personal things and hang some old impedimenta. A bit of harness. Some cooking implements. Put in an accent light fixture that looks period appropriate. These "antiques" can be reproductions, and can be anything that looks like it predates WWI. Give the old cabinets a fresh coat of milk paint, with some distressing, so that the underlayers of paint show where they would be worn, giving an instant hit of "history" to to the room. Change the Formica to one of the new slate look ones. Use an unexpected, period possible textile. Cushions or a valence or something. Something colorful, bright and fun. If you're feeling more energetic, you can also take the doors off the upper cabinets for an open shelving look, or even take down the cabinets, fix up the walls and put in chunky board shelves. You can go a step farther and replace some lower cabinets with an old sideboard. If there's room, put a beat up old farm table in the middle. I really think you can get a feel that works with the house with an investment of $1-2K in set dressing and some creativity, rather than going into debt over a new kitchen, which, inevitably, the new owners will tear out because it doesn't have a beer tap, baking station, or kimchi fridge, or because they really want a Pedini kitchen and all the magazines say it's okay to put a sleek, Modern Italian kitchen in a very old house. The point is to make the kitchen feel like it belongs to the house rather than being a jarring let down. You can sell a house with, "Obviously, the kitchen will need to be redone," as you know, if you can keep it from looking like it doesn't belong in the house at all. And when it comes time to sell, bake some kind of antique recipe instead of chocolate chip cookies. :) (Or buy blueberry tarts and reheat them...)...See MoreSuggestions for house hunting in SW Florida
Comments (19)@writersblock- ">Everyone will tell you that if you replace, you are REQUIRED to get impact windows and doors Hmm, I live on a barrier island off the east coast and I have never heard anyone say that." - If you're not in Florida, you may not have heard this. It may even be just south Florida. It seems to come up in discussion with Realtors, contractors, neighbors, etc, and thinking about it, just conversations with people who live here in St Pete or more south (Ft Myers, Cape Coral, Marco Island, Sanibel, Captiva, Keys, etc). And it's not just limited to windows - people just don't check the code requirements themselves - they rely on what some contractor told them or how their neighbor had to do it - I saw this also with building our pool (setbacks and such, which changed dramatically the year we built ours) and seawalls and docks and lifts (the major improvements we did to our house) One particularly opinionated neighbor even asked if we had talked to our insurance company before we planted our Royal Palms. ">since they were impact, they had huge frames and tiny panes Confused by this. It's true that the frame of an impact window goes further into the wall, but it should not make any difference at all in the amount of visible glass. There are places, like my upstairs sliders, where I couldn't use impact glass because there's not enough wall at the sides to anchor them properly, but if there were, the amount of actual window would be identical with regular glass." - What you describe is exactly the problem. It was a grouping of (I recall) about 4 or 6 separate impact windows where one would normally put a large picture window (I don't know if it was less expensive to do this way or why they didn't put in one window - but even they now admit that this add-on was a mistake). And the window panes are slightly smaller and the frames slightly bigger on the impact windows you buy here (Maybe just Florida? Miami-Dade code we all have to follow now). But if you can imagine the framing support requirements for each window, it put about, I don't know, 8-10" between the window frames (seems like more). The main horizontal support between the upper and lower windows is right at my eye height (I'm 5'7") and I can't see into the upper windows without hopping up, and have to squat a little to see out the lower windows. Remember this is the waterview side of the room. There are new tenants moving in right now, but maybe I can sneak over and get a picture from the outside sometime... Your neighbors' insurance story is awful. I can't believe they need certification for shutters, but I assume it's the insurance company inspector and they can do whatever they want. The city inspector didn't even look at the certification for our one impact window (for egress) because he was familiar enough with the PGT brand that he took one look and knew it was fine. For the front door, he just looked at the anchors around the door, and saw the shutters stacked in the garage, and signed off. I had pictures on my camera to show him with the shutters installed and he just waved me off. My insurance company hasn't even asked, and we have almost all original single-pane Miami windows (with no shutters) and we don't want to replace them because you can't get them here anymore (unless we do it unpermitted). But we are concrete block, didn't insure the carpet, and the rest of the house is tile, and we have a newer tile roof. Those are bigger factors here for insurance....See Moreteaser for mid-century modern fans
Comments (35)Thanks bmorepanic. Exactly right, there is a spectrum of styles that would work which creates too many options. In the end, it's hard not to let price be the deciding factor. Why pay $25+ a sq/ft if it's no more inspiring than $7 a sq/ft really? The issue of where to start and stop the tile is another thing we can't resolve, especially because of that angled corner. Oh well, any strong opinions are welcomed because we're about ready to toss up our arms in defeat....See MoreOn the hunt for a greenhouse!
Comments (127)tropic: deep foundations to avoid the frost heave After perking an area the depth of a foundation depends on two things 1) Primarily the weight load on top A heavier load on top would require a deeper foundation or better known as a deeper footing 2) Frost line depth relative to a persons zone. Walls are on the footing and are flush - 1/4 inch inner to it's outer ends Depth of any solid form foundation is considered as operational with FOUR inch solid footing buried Six inches lower than the frost line and would have at least SIX foot walls but the same depth footing would also allow for eight to ten foot walls of foundation depending on the height weight and size of the structure that's going to be on the foundation. Options for a no wall height are also considered but would be considered for single floor slabs and would need to be deeper than four inches Not considered in this comment is the possible use of an elevated foundation such as an exterior porch would have. All aside the avg depth of any foundation is considered operational @ four to six inches below any frost line relative to the structure on it. Perking is a controlled operation( test) of how quickly water moves to avoid any heaving ,sinking, swelling of a foundation and it's structure....See Moremsmeow
5 years agomsmeow
5 years agomsmeow
5 years agomsmeow
5 years agolittlebug zone 5 Missouri
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agomsmeow thanked littlebug zone 5 Missourimsmeow
5 years ago
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