Gallbladder removal. What’s the Gas Ex for?
dedtired
5 years ago
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Fun2BHere
5 years agodedtired
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Scotts 2046 - starting issues - your advice pls
Comments (35)Read and re-read this carefully. It might seem complex to the novice but it is really a straight forward and in depth explanation of what goes on, and what you will be looking at. Remove the spark plug from each cylinder. You will adjust BOTH valves on "the same cylinder", ONLY AFTER THAT CYLINDER has been positioned to the proper point in the 4-stroke cycle. Remove the valve cover from both cylinders. Identify each valve as INTAKE valve or EXHAUST valve by doing a visual reference. The INTAKE valve will be physically closest to where the intak manifold connects to the head and the EXHAUST valve will be nearest to where the exhaust manifold connects to the head. Next you need to determine which direction the engine rotates when running. You can determine this by spinning the engine with the starter while watching the flywheel through the fan shroud. Mark the direction with an arrow (at least on a sketch if not on the engine). Once you have determined the direction of rotation, you can proceed to positioning the engine for valve adjustment. You should trun the engine by hand a few complete revolutions to familiarize yourself with the sequence of valve movements through the entire 4 stroke cycle. It requires two complete revolutions of the crankshaft (720 degrees of crankshaft rotation) to one complete "4 stroke cycle". The 4 strokes of a four cycle engine are (and in this sequence): (1) INTAKE STROKE (2) COMPRESSION STROKE (3) POWER STROKE (4) EXHAUST STROKE. The compression stroke is the stroke where you perform the valve adjustments. Before we try to figure out how to identify the compression stroke for a specific cylinder let's describe the movements of the valves and the terms used: When a pushrod is RISING and lifting a rocker arm, the rocker arm will be pushing a valve DOWN. When a valve is DOWN, it is OPEN. When a valve is UP, it is CLOSED. OK, turn the engine by hand in the correct direction of rotation while watching both valves of the cylinder you are going to adjust the valves on. When you get to a point in the turning where the INTAKE VALVE begins to rise up (closing) and the exhaust valve is already UP (closed), you are in the beginning of the COMPRESSION STROKE. At this time you need to insert a wooden pencil or a wooden dowel rod straight into the spark plug hole until it contacts the piston. Hold the dowel firmly against the piston with one hand and resume turning the engine with the other hand. Observe how the piston pushes the dowel out of the plug hole as the piston moves toward the magical point known as Top Dead Center (TDC). At the point where the dowel movement stops, mark the dowel flush with the edge of the plug hole. Now, measure upward 1/4 inch from that mark and put a second mark. Put the dowel back in the hole, firmly against the piston and slowly resume turning the engine (in the direction of rotatation) and you will see the dowel move into the hole as the piston drops. Continue turning the engine until the second mark on the dowel is flush with the edge of the spark plug hole. This cylinder is now in the correct position for adjusting the valves ON THIS CYLINDER ONLY. After adjusting the valves on this cylinder, you will need to repeat the entire procedure to get the opposite cylinder into position to adjust its valves....See MoreDue Dilligence - Questions to ask BEFORE you sign a contract
Comments (19)saftgeek - I hate to admit it but you are all too correct about far too many attorneys! I was a high school teacher for 20 years before deciding to go to law school and I have been deeply appalled by the how truly unethical and dishonest some lawyers are. In the six years I've been practicing law, I've run into more dishonest, downright sleezy lawyers than I met incompetant teachers in twenty years of teaching school... and people are always knocking teachers for being incompetant! Shyster lawyers make me ashamed of this profession just as incompetant teachers sometimes made me ashamed of the teaching profession. I would urge you or anyone else who has evidence of a lawyer behaving dishonestly or unethically to report them to their state bar association. It might not do any good but then again, it just might. At least in Texas, I think our state bar tries to disbar the unethical lawyers whenever they can find them. It certainly sounds like your ex-boss was exactly that type. I also truly am not trying to paint GCs as dishonest. I believe the vast majority are honest folks who do their best to do a good job when building a home and, if they make mistakes, try their best to fix them. BUT, as in all professions, there are some people building homes that are either lazy, dishonest, or so downright disorganized that the homeowner who ends up hiring one of them needs to be able to go to court and get help. And, unfortunately, the contract promulgated by the Texas Association of Builders is specifically designed to protect these bottom-feeding GCs from facing the music for their bad behaviour. The funny thing is, I KNOW that it was the TAB's lawyers who drafted the d--n contract that protects the bad builders, so when I'm knocking the contract, I'm also slamming some of the members of my own profession! I actually suspect that most builders who use the TAB form contract do so because it is available to them cheaply and they don't know any more about what it really says than the homeowner does. And, so long as there are no major problems with the build - nobody is any the worse off. But, I defy any honest person who has ever READ the TAB contract to argue with a straight face that it is a fair and balanced contract. Among other things, it requires the homeowner to waive the "implied warranty of habitability". Basically an implied warranty of habitablity means that courts have said when two parties enter into a contract for one to build a home for the other, there is an implied understanding between them that the finished home will be inhabitable. The owner doesn't have to make sure to insist that language be put into the contract SAYING that the house must be able to be lived in when comleted...the courts will assume that since the contract was for the building of a home, the finished product must be something one can inhabit or it is simply not a "home." But, just in case someone WANTS just a shell - or something like that - to be built, courts will allow the parties to agree to waive the "implied warranty of habitability". Asking the homeowner to waive the implied warranty of habitablity might be fair if the homeowner wanted to build something totally new and different and the builder said, "you know, I can build that for you but I don't think it'll be something you can live in when I get done, are you SURE that's what you want?" But, I think you would have to agree that, except in those rare instances, a house should be inhabitable, just like a car should be driveable, a suit should be wearable, and a wedding cake should be edible. Would you agree to buy a new car from a manufacturer who insisted that you agree to waive the "implied warranty of driveability"? Would you purchase a suit from a tailor who refused to warrant that it would be wearable? Would you order a wedding cake from a baker who refused to guarantee that it would be edible? Why would you buy a home from someone who refused to warrant that it would be habitable????? Nevertheless, the Texas Association of Builders - with the help of its attorneys no doubt! - realized that implied warranties can be waived and that most homeowners don't ever really read or understand the contract they sign. So they put language into the form contract that waives the warranty of habitablility on every single home built under it. That means the homeowner may think he is contracting for a turn-key home but, even if the house he gets is so defective that he cannot possibly live in it - say the sewage pipe has broken in the wall so that there that raw sewage has contaminated all the insulation - the homeowner cannot argue that the builder breached the contract by building an UNIHABITABLE house. Fair????? The TAB contract also requires that the owner agree upfront to "binding arbitration" in the event of a dispute. This doesn't sound too bad...unless you happen to know a couple of facts about binding arbitration. First, arbitration is MUCH MORE EXPENSIVE than small claims court even though most building disputes are going to be over amounts small enough have brought the claim in small claims court. Second, arbitrators are selected and PAID by the parties to the dispute which means that arbitrators make more money if they are selected for more cases. If an arbitrator wants future work, they have to make sure that the party that is more likely to bring them future business is happy. Care to guess which party is more likely to NEED to hire an arbitrator for a second or third or fourth construction dispute? Some studies have shown that homeowners win less than 5% of claims that go to arbitration but win about half of claims that are tried in a court of law. Even those few homeowners who are nominal winners in arbitration almost never win enough money to actually repair their homes! The TAB contract also requires that the builder receive his final payment, in full, (i.e. NO RETAINAGE) at the time of the final walk-through even though it also specifies that a punch list of items to be corrected/completed/repaired will be made at this same time. In theory the builder is supposed to return and finish the punch list. But, WHY should the unscrupulous builder bother? After all, he has already been paid in full AND the homeowner can't even sue him in small claims court due to the binding arbitration clause I already mentioned? Do you think that is fair? I could go on and on about other clauses that are in the TAB contract but I suspect I've made my point. A builder who insists on using the TAB contract after having some of its many unfair clauses pointed out to him may not actually BE dishonest but, IMHO, neither is he the kind of straight shooter I really want to deal with. Straight shooters are willing to play on a level playing field....See MoreStumped on GFCI Circuit Breaker
Comments (52)"FYI the gfci doesn't really check ground fault in the sense some people on here think. A gf I actually checks current leak." Do you have a link to some sort of documentation for this voodoo theory? If that were the case, any time one GFCI in your house tripped because of a current leak, they ALL would trip. If the difference between the current leaving and returning THROUGH the current transformer of the GFCI exceeds 5 mA, the solid-state circuitry opens the switching contacts and de-energizes the circuit. http://m.ecmweb.com/content/how-gfcis-work The GFCI measures the DIFFERENCE in current between the hot and neutral that goes THROUGH the current transformer in the breaker. It can not sense a current that does not go through the current transformer. The GFCI may not reset if the main breaker is not turned back on first, or the LINE side neutral wire is not connected to the neutral bar yet, but it won't sense current leakage on a different circuit. If that were the case, how far away will it sense this "other" leakage? 100 feet? Your neighbor's house? The leakage in all the power transmission lines? Try this experiment, take the line wires off your doorbell transformer, and just wrap them around the transformer instead of hooking them up, and tell me if the doorbell still work ;) Or take your fluke and try to test for current without putting the wire INSIDE the current transformer. It is more likely that you just got unlucky with the new breaker being bad after the first one gave out....See MoreWhat Did You Do Today???
Comments (21)I made a loaf of bread, did some household chores.....I hate cleaning but it had to be done. Then, I went outside and spent several hours doing hard labor. Digging up old roots and preparing the bed out in front for some flowers. If I can move tomorrow I plan on going to get something to put in and also get some sort of mulch. I still have some stuff to do in the yard.....since we had a nice rain followed by warm, sunshiny days, lots of cosmos seeds and tomato seeds have sprouted, not to mention the crab grass. We were going to have company in December for several days and I was really looking forward to seeing them....they called to tell us they decided to go visit his daughter in Portland, OR. It is Roy's cousin and a really nice guy. We got a call a few minutes ago inviting us to Palm Desert for Thanksgiving. Good friends but she is a lousy cook and I don't like riding in heavy traffic with DH. But we will probably go. They have been friends with DH since they were preteens.....now the guys are almost 78....See MoreDawnInCal
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