We are having a similar dilemma. I have 2 identical niches - about 11" wide by 43" tall. We will be using glass shelves. I am trying to decide where to put the shelves since I am short and my shampoo bottles are tall(costco shampoo, about 12-13" tall). The niches are about 34" off the ground. I can't decide if I need 2 or 3 shelves. Any ideas? I know it will look pretty, but I want it to be functional!

Tough to comment without there being a plan attached to look at. I would recommend for maximum flexibility that you forgo the built-in bench and just use a teak bench, or something similar. It can be used in the shower or outside the shower as needed. It preserved maximum flexibility for shower usage...and wood can be a bit more comfortable than tile to sit on. Whenever anyone plans on a bench or sitting down, I always encourage them to have a handheld on a hose somewhere in the shower. That way the handheld can be used specifically rather than generally. A second wall bracket can be placed on the wall down low for leg shaving or for whatever. For niches, I want utility first. To be able to stand under the spray and easily reach for a bottle of shampoo without having to take a step. I prefer a sidewall for the niche, to the bather's left or right, instead of it being on the wall directly in front that the shower head is on. Then there is visibility. Some like to hide it, but to me, that's the least important. If your shower's sight lines are all equally unequal regarding niche placement, then go for water spray and ease of reach. As to "other stuff", try to place the shower controls so the shower can be turned on without having to step into the shower. The goal would be to stay dry when you turn it on. Depending on the size of your shower, when I get over 4' square in footprint I start looking at 4 can lights in the ceiling with gasketed shower trim kits. More even light, fewer shadows. Ventilation. Don't skimp on it. Good ventilation (proper CFM, proper duct size and length for overall proper air movement) will be your #1 thing for minimizing shower maintenance in terms of latent moisture causing mold/mildew, etc. Fan noise is a big reason people don't use their fan. So consider a remote fan. Also, have the fan on a timer switch. You turn the shower light on, the light and fan turn on. You turn the shower light off, the lights turn off but the ventilation fan runs for a preset time...usually another 20-30 minutes before it automatically turns off.

acrylic showers have thier place if you can live with it, it will be cheapest route. they do atleast dry out between showers, can be easily serviced. the only downfall of them is the wasted/lost space. In a average 32 acrylic the actual room inside is more like 28 1/2" and thats anywhere there is no shelf or handle, you loose another 9 inches in each corner, thats where they need the most support (for shipping) I am continuously asked about this question by my clients. Here is my opinion and why. I suggest the use of a poured cultured marble pan. we do the others but this is why. I do not like the way that the drain attaches to the liners in a wet-bed, I have been called back to 3 showers in the last 5 years where they have began to leak. none of the 3 were my fault, but all 3 had to have the floors removed, and rebuilt. all 3 was from the plumbers flange, 3 different plumbers were used by the homeowners. 2 leaked because the seal gave up on its own over time,(obviously they were not tight enough) plumbers had to pay me to redo. the 3rd I was paid by homeowner, because he admitted to plumber to using a toilet plunger to try and unclog the drain, that was full of hair. In doing so he blew out the seal, when the clog would not move. but there are more reasons than that. I have repeatedly been called in to redo showers here in the south (NC)because of mildew/mold. if you live in humid states rubber liners with wetbed is just not smart. it is just that a wetbed. Anyone can say what they want, seal it every year, or not the floor of a tile shower takes days/weeks to dry out after a shower. this combined with the fact that the floor and every wall contracts with temperature guarantees you that in a tile shower the corners Will crack no matter how small. relevent to leakage, no thats why the walls are sealed before the tile, it is enevitable that water will enter behind the tile in some small amounts. and move down to the pan. True they make caulking in every color that they make grout in, and should absolutly be used. but this does not take away from he fact that there is no possible way to keep water from getting under the tile level on a tile bottom shower floor. liners are not there incase the tile fails, its a working part of the shower system. and in this system (the cracks around the corners) there is an eco-system that is perfect for mold and mildew to survive, and spore out into the rest of your home continuously. cultured marble bases removes this continuous dampness, as well as having a standard flange that can be easily changed/worked on in case of any cause. Cultured marble pans are flanged on top, come in stardard sizes up to 4x5 feet, then you could build a bench all the way around the outside of that for a party shower. If you use cultured walls as well, corners are siliconed in, as well as a second sealed corner trim strip. so leakage is an impossibility, so is moisture retention. Recesses, and shelving no problem, even adding them later. smooth single no seamed surfaces are easy to clean and no maintainance. I make money if I do the tile, when I do bathroom remodels, I use outside contractor if they want the cultured marble and I make nothing for that. Facts are facts, I want my clients to get what they want, and what they need is info to make thier own decisions. Other people have said clean and dry your shower after use, I say what are they thinking. I want a VERY low maintainance place to get clean, not a place where I have to do maintainance every night, I wont dry me and the shower after every use. There is still the water in the cracks that you simply cannot get to to dry, along the bottom of the wall to floor seam. if you use the cultured marble base , and tile walls, you will have no worries as well, the possible problem is in the tile floor base.

Thanks much and beautiful showers! I am confused about the thermostatic valve. Is this something that I can buy separate and have it installed in the wall so that anytime I change out the shower handle/trim/valve it will automatically be there and still be accessible if it breaks and I need to change it? I hate to have more moving parts and things to break inside the walls. LIke this (although it looks like part of this would stick out of the wall?-another hole?: https://www.amazon.com/Rozin-Thermostatic-Mixing-Temperature-Control/dp/B01FAGWKTC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542006430&sr=8-3&keywords=thermostatic+control+valve#customerReviews  Or does do certain valves come with it like this?: https://www.amazon.com/Hansgrohe-04231000-Thermostatic-Control-Diverter/dp/B07FDFK5SM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1542006430&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=thermostatic+control+valve&psc=1 I was wondering, also, it sets the temp but the initial issue of being cold while the water warms up since it has to run through the pipes would still be there, right? Problem is, I have chosen champagne bronze and if I need to get the thermostatic control valve built in I think that will be hard. I'm already having a hard time finding a handheld and shower head built into the same. I might have to get a separate handheld to divert water or I'm back to the initial question of do I just push the shower head over to shoot towards the wall before I turn on the H20 or go back to the idea of moving the control valve? Here's one of the options I was looking at for a showerhead before this discuss that I might need to adjust: https://www.amazon.com/58471-CZ-PK-H2Okinetic-4-Setting-Handshower-Showerhead/dp/B009MLXJN8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1542006748&sr=8-2&keywords=shower+head+combo+with+handheld+champagne+bronze