My woodland peony new growth eaten by rabbit. Will it grow back?
Heruga (7a Northern NJ)
5 years ago
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dbarron
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoHeruga (7a Northern NJ)
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Everything eaten by rabbits/groundhog
Comments (9)I feel your pain! The repellants have never worked for me neither. Just not long ago, I also digged up 20 feet of peas after rabbit damage in order to make room for Beans. Similar to sunnibel's experience, I personally saw baby rabbits squeezing through 1" opening that sits on the ground level. However, taz6122 mentioned "rabbit wire" or some others mentioned "rabbit fence" have worked for them. These have smaller openings at the bottom, and sparse openings at the top. Bright green deer nets on my raised beds (with 1-2ft raise) works for the uninvited bunnies here. If you already have the chickenwire in place, have you tried to weave through the lower part with some bright twines? The twines need to sit low enough for those baby rabbits. Not sure about groundhogs because we don't have those in this area. The last but most likely causes are what Dave pointed out, holes in the fence. Once you can keep the rabbits at bay, some of your young plants like Peas will grow back, not sure if they're be fast enough for you though....See MorePlease Add MORE 'My Favorite Gardening Tips'
Comments (91)Outsmarting the tree rats (squirrels) around my house is a full time job. This past spring I hit on a new idea. When I plant a container I invert an empty wire hanging basket over the container and the plant gets sun and can be watered but the squirrels can't dig in it. Another idea: I bring in a lot of plants to "over winter" under lights in my garage. I have so many that it is hard to reach my hand under the lights (4 shop lights) to the middle for watering. So I bought a pump sprayer with a long wand and it works great! In late winter I add a little liquid Dawn detergent, few drops, to each gallon of water and not only does the soil get wet easier but the worms that are waiting to hatch into distructive pets just don't hatch. Don't know what it costs me to run those four shop lights all winter but I don't care. It is a small price to pay to be able to "garden" every weekend in the garage. Many people have mentioned that they mark their outdoor plants with a "permanent Sharpie". In my experience there isn't a "permanent Sharpie", they all fade and quickly too. A grease pencil/china marker or expensive "no fade" garden center marker are the only markers I have found that won't disappoint you by fading. Eight years ago I decided to learn about gardening so I tapped into my local library. I checked out nearly every book they had on gardening and learned so much. The Gardenweb forums are also a wealth of information and entertainment. There is always something new to learn and I appreciate all of you who take the time to write in your ideas. One last idea from me...I keep a small notebook on my computer table and jot down any idea I find that's new and I will want to try. Little pieces of paper get lost but I always know where my notebook is and also use it when I order "on line" so I will remember the name of the company and the order date. Tina or Trowelgal...See MoreAquilegia canadensis was eaten last night
Comments (10)No deer tracks in the yard or in or near the bed as that was the first thing I looked for since there are deer that come around during the winter. I don't normally have bunnies any more since we got our black lab. This morning there was a hole about 3 inches in diameter approx. 12 inches away from the eaten plant. I put a stick in the hole but it was very shallow only about 3 or 4 inches deep in any direction and becuase of shrub roots the stick wouldn't go any further. I know it isn't a mole as they are insect eaters. I don't think it is a vole because the plant was too big for a vole to eat the whole thing in one night. Could it possibly be a chipmunk? I have only seen one chipmonk in the area one time in the 11 years I have lived here. These are not new plantings and I have never had them eaten in the past. I am totally perplexed. Penny...See MoreTurning a small field into woodland
Comments (39)Interesting running commentary here. Eric: you've got an exciting project ahead of you. Let's hope your kids inherit your passion for land stewardship. lkz5ia: your posted history of investigating vigorous non-native species may cause these sentences to blow off with the prairie winds, but maybe you could consider them "invasive comments" and try sowing them as a simple experiment >%-D Resolving the issue of an undesirable gully situation is likely going to take much more than planting bamboo species, vigorous or not, native or not. You may have already researched stream dynamics; if so, then this will be a limited primer for those who haven't yet. Above, it was mentioned that these images represent a former wetland. Due to past land use practices (assuming Iowa, assuming field agriculture, assuming grazing/cattle, assuming tiling/drainage "improvements", assuming land division irrespective of natural systems) there may not be any chance to recreate that condition. Neighbors upstream are your biggest allies in your endeavor, or maybe your worst enemies. Slow down the water flow, if you want to stabilize and improve the gullying situation. As far as I know, Iowa has relatively low gradients when it comes to topography. It also has few canyons. To get gullies like you are showing here, with rapid advancement upstream, you have an increased flow situation combined with lack of normal vegetation for the site (that formerly held soils in place). Normal vegetation for Iowa includes quite a few woody riparian species (you've mentioned many in your posts, with vigorous root systems ideally evolved to hold soils together in this kind of situation) as well as many herbaceous species (prairie style) with very deep root systems. I think this is where the gap occurs. Bamboo plants (in my limited use experience) aren't necessarily known for depth of rooting, more so for vigorous spreading in horizontal directions. In an erosive condition as you've illustrated, soils will likely wash away underneath and the support systems fail. Deeper rooted species, adapted to YOUR site, combined with some structural (engineered) stabilization offer a better scenario. Yes, this can be a costly solution, but isn't always. Usually, some "toe-of-slope" stabilizer must be installed to hold the base of the bank in place while the organic (plant matter) component is getting growing and extending roots throughout the soil profile that you want to hold together. This can be stone, logs, stumps, brush, or other things; one must understand the dynamics enough to know what sort of application to make. Filling behind the stabilizer and planting (sometimes with a stabilization or erosion control fabric, natural material or inorganic) comes next. Here's where you have the opportunity to be frugal. Species you've mentioned (willow, cottonwood, sycamore, etc.) are all great to use as LIVE STAKES, meaning you cut live branches/parts in the dormant season and simply drive them into the ground. Doubles as staking for erosion control fabrics, too. This is a way to "forest" a creek bank without prohibitive costs, and stay ahead of the hoofed and webbed-foot browsers. Apply the technique mentioned by Chester_Grant in the Trees forum to keep out deer (creating a raised grid of fallen timber, maybe some of the excess Ailanthus you are raising, or Pyrus) to extend the establishment time of the live stakes. There are many other species that work in this regard, especially shrubby species that are copious fruiters, so that you'll be supporting several system restoration components simultaneously (hydrology, soil stabilization, and faunal habitat). Concurrent with the attempt to stem the advance of the gully, slowing water down upstream through several efforts will pay dividends in the stabilization and enhancement of the system and habitant. Using the same type of riparian species (live staked or whole plants) in the watershed above the gully will slow down water flow, and trap sediments. Additionally, placement of weir structures (soil berming, stone, logs, stumps, brush, etc.; I've used newspaper bales) to "dam" the flow periodically will reduce the rate of runoff and reduce the rate of erosion in the gullying area. Yes, this will raise the temporary water table or surface impoundment, and that's where I was going with the "neighbors upstream" comment. If this is unfavorable to their land management practices or concerns, then you may not be able to implement this range of alternatives. Drop-down pipes solve short-term issues on site, and pass them on rapidly downstream to whomever's property comes next. You don't say how large/small a property you manage, or how big the watershed is that feeds it hydrology, but the management principles apply anyway. Slowing the water down higher up in the system pays dividends throughout, so working on the smaller "ditches" first that feed the larger stream maybe be the best approach. Whew! Probably lost some readers in that slow-moving train of thoughts. FWIW. Good luck in the project; we will all learn something from the efforts related here....See Moredbarron
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoJay 6a Chicago
5 years agoHeruga (7a Northern NJ)
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoJay 6a Chicago
5 years agoHeruga (7a Northern NJ)
5 years agoJay 6a Chicago
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoFaith
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5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoHeruga (7a Northern NJ)
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5 years agoHeruga (7a Northern NJ)
5 years agoUser
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoHeruga (7a Northern NJ)
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5 years agoHeruga (7a Northern NJ)
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