I think your new home will look great with the French look with those interesting beams in the ceiling. If it were me, I'd leave the cabinets white and redo the hardware, at least on the cupboard doors. The current handles seem too busy for them so IÂd switch to knobs on the doors and fill in the extra hole. With the dark ceilings and floors, ORB hardware and faucets might be a great accent. Then use the walls and accessories for the colors you'd like to add to the room. If the cabinets are stark white, you might consider glazing them--hard to be sure in the photos. But personally I also like pure white cabinets, so that would be last on my list of things to change since they already seem to fit with your French décor plans. Hoosiergirl and Demifloyd have pretty kitchens, and it seems like their walls may be a green of some sort. IÂll see if I can find a link to give you for ideas. With an open area like yours, IMHO it would look better to keep it all one wall color to unify things. If you go with green, you may want to keep it a very muted green if you plan to bring in the blues and yellows you mentioned for the French look. This first picture shows a painted upper cupboard and island combined with white cabinets. Demifloyd's kitchen-- Hoosiergirl's kitchen--

I’ve got a great suggestion for a blue for your room with that light…B.M. CSP Seersucker Suit. It looks gray on the fan, but up it is totally different. I love this color! I have it in our MB. I will never tire of it. All my trim is B.M. Super White.

An update, as I think we have a winner! Thanks for all the amazing suggestions - I can't even say how helpful this was. My husband rejected a few of the options, like the sage greens. We sampled some more of the finalists and were much happier with these choices than the cooler greys we tried last weekend, which we hated. It was a tough call between Sea Pearl and Revere Pewter, but Sea Pearl won, primarily because we also want to use it the same color in the adjoining hallway, which also leads to some other rooms where we will be using more dramatic colors, so the lighter shade seemed better. Incidentally, we also decided that for the whole house, Cotton Balls will work better than White Dove on the trim and ceilings. We have White Dove in our condo and love it, but the light in the new house is totally different. The White Dove just seems dingy in some rooms, especially the north-facing ones. I'll update this thread with "after" pics in a couple weeks! Samples! You can also see that in the interim, the floors have been refinished! Woohoo! The Sea Pearl is hard to discern in this first pic because it's pretty close to the color of the raw horsehair plaster we will be painting over. (There used to be wallpaper.) But it's swatched to the left of the Revere Pewter, I swear. Here's the hallway. It's crazy how different the light is from room to room in this house. (Still doesn't explain why the downstairs bedroom, just visible on the left, was painted orange...we're going to use the Revere Pewter in there.)

I used H-Line" Alabaster" which I think is made by Arizona Tile. Both my local tile stores carry it and it was not expensive. It is thicker than home center subway tile. I needed a thicker tile because my quartz did not quite meet the wall in one area due to a bow in my wall. If it hasn't been said, you will want to remove the 4" splash first. If you find gaps between counter and wall, look at the H-Line - it is 1/4" thick. This is my kitchen: https://www.houzz.com/photos/my-pics-work-in-progress-phvw-vp~110720042 https://www.houzz.com/photos/my-pics-work-in-progress-phvw-vp~109854029 There are many different under cabinet lights and some have lots of extras - like being dimible or changing light tone. Mine are very simple. I started with LED strip lights from a home center store ($75) and plugged them in the wall. Later, an electrician wired the lights to a switch - about $350 - I only had one line to put in a switch. I only did between sink and range because that is my main prep area. Before: https://www.houzz.com/photos/my-pics-work-in-progress-phvw-vp~48485162 After: https://www.houzz.com/photos/my-pics-work-in-progress-phvw-vp~81033766 I should cut a ditch between the cabinets and tuck up the cords, but I forget to do that because I don't notice it. I think most here have been happy with LED strips, though you will want to check the look - whether the lights are "cool" or "warm" because both exist in LED. I would think a lighting store could help, or like me you could start with some inexpensive home center store lights and see what you think. I believe mine are by Patriot Lighting from Menards - but they are probably 4 years old - not sure if that style is still available and they read more warm than cool.. The windows give you a nice amount of light, but the counter area does look dark. I don't mind the dark counters - they work with the wood, but I really like my light counters. You may want to live in the home a while to see how the dark counters work for you. Some complain of fingerprints showing everywhere - but that depends on the particular countertop. I would be torn between preferring light, but not wanting to get rid of perfectly good counters:) There are some dark counters in my idea book. This dark countertop (soapstone) looks pretty with the cream: