any experience with the Caliber pro-style gas range?
MaryAnn GOLDSTEIN
5 years ago
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MaryAnn GOLDSTEIN
5 years agoRelated Discussions
gas flow requirements for pro style ranges
Comments (4)Most high end ranges require 5/8" or 3/4" flex connector from the wall to the range. What diameter pipe is necessary to get from the meter to the connection point depends on several factors including distance of run, input pressure, branches and elbows etc. Whole house tankless water heaters run about 200 MBH (200k BTU/h) and would require a dedicated 1" line to run about 50-70ft using standard IP. In my house, there was an existing 1" line that fed a standard water heater and a furnace. When we redid our kitchen, my builder was originally planning to branch off of that line but I pushed him to upgrade with another 1" line off the meter that ran to the kitchen and 1/2" branch for a future fireplace. Keep in mind that a 1" line is approx the equivalent of 4x 1/2" lines so it's a lot cheaper to run a larger diameter line than to run multiple equivalent lines assuming location of your appliances are near or inline with each other. Not sure what you have today so can't judge if what your sales guy is quoting but I will say that most houses are under spec for running a high power range plus a furnace and a water heater. Add to that your desire to go tankless, I would expect that you will definitely need to upgrade your gas service. For point of reference, a 4 ton furnace is 48 MBH, standard water heater is 40-60 MBH, a 36" high power gas range max about 180MBH, and a tankless water heater is 200MBH. Now you are unlikely to have all of your burners on max and the oven on at the same time so assuming your existing line is 1" and services the range and the furnace and is less than around 80 feet long, then you should be ok for the range and furnace. Then you can simply run another 1" line direct from the gas meter all the way to your tankless water heater. You might not need a 1" line if you are locating the unit close to your meter. Alternately, if all of this is new construction, then you can run a single 1.5" min (I would go 1.75-2") line with sufficiently sized branches for each of the appliances. Hope this helps and good luck....See MoreGas range: want pro-style with temp readout and timer
Comments (22)I think it is possible to go overboard, or be lured overboard, by the grooviness of a ''digital'' oven temperature setting. When you set the digital oven control to ''325F'', most ovens don't actually hold 325F, they turn on and off and the temperature swings around. ''On'' at something like 300F and ''off'' at something like 350F. That assumes the oven is perfectly calibrated which often isn't the case. With that much error and fluctuation, the apparent precision of setting the digital control to ''325F'' versus the apparent imprecision of turning a knob to ''325F'' is - well, it is an illusion. If precise oven temperature really matters, you'd want to use an oven thermometer placed in the same spot as the food. But does it matter? Does the food really care if the temperature is swinging around in a range of 300F to 350F, or would a range of 285F to 335F, or a range of 315F to 365F, work just as well? I really doubt it matters. You're not going to cook anything to an internal temp much over 200F anyway, so the oven temp just determines how much time it takes to get to the desired internal temp, and how browned the exterior gets by then. But those are very much influenced by the food (size? thickness? moisture?) and the cooking method (covered pot? foil? rack?). Bottom-line, the fancy digital temperature controls may sell ranges but I don't think they help cook food. I'd personally not care about that feature. The timer feature would be more important to me, not so much for cooking food but to ensure that I don't accidentally leave the oven on all night....See MoreWhich 36 in. pro style gas range- features, reliability,USA,$
Comments (45)Well ours is without question made of 304 stainless. But honestly I don't really see a problem using 430 SS either, depends on the way it was built as in some cases the 430 is better because it holds a weld better and can bend to certain specifications better without cracking. A range made of 430SS inside your house is not going to rust anyway, that is pure nonsense. I DO however think that 430 SS could have more adverse reactions to acidic type foods such as say Tomato Sauce or Lemon juice Vs 304. maybe if you sat it in a corner of an abandoned house for 30 years maybe, but if you use it everyday in a house with AC it is not going to rust, but it very well could have more staining with acidic foods. I think that 304 stainless is critical on a BBQ grill, but not so much on an indoor stove. But I am still glad mine is made of 304 Stainless anyway. But there are many things made of 400 series stainless that work just fine, never rust, one I can think of is most "Food Slicers, Deli meat slicers etc" are made of 400 series stainless. Car exhaust pipes are usually made of 409 stainless because of the better welding and heat resistance. I once had the pleasure of meeting an old guy out in California, he lived in the middle of no where on many acres of land and when I met him I drove through the classic old gate with elk antlers on top and his house was built in around the 1830's, was an old adobe that was built by a Mexican General when California was actually Mexico. House still stands today with the same tile roof, just one addition was added on about 100 years ago but other than that was all original, No AC. He had as his stove a old wood stove that was thickly enameled color of like a seafoam blue/green and all the corners and edges were all Stainless Steel. Had to be a 400 series stainless because I don't think the 300 series was even in use yet. That stove looked like it brand spanking new and at the time I saw it was about 90+ years old. Not a speck of rust on it, of course it was thick as hell but still the surface was still like new. I actually find products "Made in USA" about 75% of the time to be pure crap in every way. I bet 95% of the world views items "made in USA" exactly the way people like Deeageaux does about China. In general about every product I see with "Made in Germany" tag on it is probably about the only one I can generally count on being very well made, I can usually count on a high price for that item also. Most of the working parts in the NXR come from every place except China, it is basically just "Assembled" in China and who better to assemble than those that have been assembling things for decades. Also it is probably the larger brand name companies that are forcing retailers not to carry a quality product that cost far less, that happens all the time in every category of product....See MoreAny experience or opinons on Premier Pro Line of Ranges.
Comments (6)Thanks. The thread was interesting as I'm buying a range to replace a 1950's Roper. I'm very dubious about all the electronics on today's ranges. I bought myself a DCS 10 years ago and love that it has no touch pads or buttons to fail. The Premier Pros look really old fashioned, but there is very little information about them so I won't be buying one. I'm actually sorry to be getting rid of the Roper, but it is 48" wide and has a small oven and isn't really right for a rental apartment. I hope to find a good home for it....someone who will refurbish it and keep it cooking for another 60 years....See Morebeckysharp Reinstate SW Unconditionally
5 years agoMaryAnn GOLDSTEIN thanked beckysharp Reinstate SW Unconditionallybeckysharp Reinstate SW Unconditionally
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