Pug, I wonder if your kerrii could be one of the other clones - "hairy kerrii" or the veined clone. Can you give us a closeup of a leaf? I suppose that might make a difference in the color of the sap. I have all three, but hairy kerrii and veined kerrii haven't bloomed for me yet. I think they both will this year because they've both set peduncles. If they do, I can compare flowers... I was whacking away at my kerrii a couple days ago - it's gotten so large and out of control, and I'm selling Hoyas this year (mostly to my cactus club...) to try to supplement our "budget deficit"... Anyway, I found one vine that had three opening peduncles on it, so left that one on for now. They're open now and no signs of any nectar at all yet. I'll have to pay attention and see how long it takes before they produce the nectar. It's not something I ever paid attention to before... Denise in Omaha

Ah, another kerrii fan! There was a time that I could not pass up a kerrii. Now that I have most of the variations, I can finally control myself! Clones vary. It usually has something to do with where that particular clone originated in the wild, but it sometimes has to do with "sports." A "sport" is just an unusual growth that someone removes from the main plant and roots to grow on it's own. Sometimes the growth goes back to normal, and sometimes it continues to grow in it's "different" way, which results in a sport. The weird Jades, like 'Hobbit' and 'Gollum' are sports of a regular Jade. Anyway, could one of them be 'Hairy Kerrii' or the veined clone? I have these two in addition to the standard kerrii, and you can't really see a difference in photos. In fact, unless you were very observant, you might not even realize there was a difference until someone pointed it out to you. But leaf size does vary a lot. Here are the different ones I grow: the veined clone... ...'Hairy Kerrii'... ...variegated... ... and below is the reverse variegated, which doesn't keep its coloring in the winter for me. Denise in Omaha

Well I grow a number of Kerriis (solid green), actually the parent pot & 2 diff. cuttings, each of which are in small 3" plastic pots from when I 1st potted up the cuttings. The parent plant is in a heavy clay pot living in bathroom windows (west, frosted glass), I have that hooped & secured w/ twister ties, it thrives. The cuttings don't yet need the support, interestingly, these cuttings are a year apart in age, the older is very leafed out w/ no vines yet, the youngest is just a 9" of stem at a 45 degree angle, as it had just one leaf at the time, but it's got a few leaves now. The key to hooping these is to start young as the stem gets thicker & less flexible over time. There was a discussion here abt this last yr/, myself & Cena & I forgot who else, we were talking abt the white sap the stems drip when one bends them. Makes a mess, perhaps do the bending over some newspapers, was like a lot of Elmer's glue. My H. obovata which also gets heavy like this is also on small hoops secured w/ binder clips (that's all I had on hand)! Really, you can do lots of diff. things w/ them, but I'd be slow to put them in a larger pot (mine have never bloomed, & I'm determined not to move that one up 'til it does). My 2 cents (many times over). PS - I forget their root size, but actually I think a heavier, thick stemmed plant is less stable in shallow pots, think abt it: top heavy = topple over (IMO)

When it comes to vegetative propagation, more specifically - leaf cuttings, a few plants have preformed primary meristems on the leaves, often referred to as 'foliar embryos' - like Bryophyllum pinnatum. These embryos are already a complete plant with root initials and a stem or shoot bud. Other plants which can be cloned by leaf cuttings, like Begonia, form wound-induced secondary meristems that arise from the process of dedifferentiation of groups of cells and their redifferentiation into a meristematic region which can then give rise to any of the plant's organ tissues. If you know something about the ability of human stem cells to be guided to differentiate into healthy cells which can then be used to replace diseased cells of specific organs, it might help you with the concept of dedifferentiation and redifferentiation. Or, think of potters clay. When wet, it can be molded into a large bowl and allowed to dry until it holds it's shape; or, it could be rewetted and molded into a figurine. If the plant has neither of the 2 capabilities I outlined, it would be necessary to include at least 1 meristem from the stem the leaf is attached to. Many plants are capable of growing roots on the leaf petiole (leaf stem), a 'blind' cutting, but w/o a meristem along for the ride, no shoot can form, no matter how long you wait. Before I was aware of this, I tried starting a leaf from a schefflera. It rooted within a couple of weeks, but after 3 years and a quart of roots - no stem developed. I'm a curious guy, so I went looking for answers so I could answer the question when it arises, as it does from time to time. If May (the OP) is still around: It's quite normal, not at all unusual, for the first 2-3 or 4 leaves on any new branch or stem to be very small and internodes between these leaves very short. Each consecutive leaf will be larger and each internode will be longer as the branch extends (within the limitations imposed by other cultural factors - light, temperature, nutrient resources ..... until by the 5th leaf or so the leaves are capable of reaching full size. Some of these tiny leaves grow no larger than 1/5 the size of a mature leaf. Al