millworkman thanks for your feedback.....that is consistent w/ what I have read online that drywall screws are brittle and tend to break under shear stress as opposed to bending. The cabinets are all installed and leveled. What is the best remedy at this point? Should the current screws remain and they add additional cabinet screws (the washer heads)

Back them out, one at a time, and replace with the GRK.

This is what happens with drywall screws. Which raises multiple red flags about everything else done in the remodel.

I cannot see anything wrong with leaving the drywall screws in and adding the new screws mentioned above. The drywall screws might actually snap or the heads will strip trying to take them out. As long as the new screws are screwed into the wood blocking. Either way you should add the new screws.

@ The Cook's Kitchen: the designer (and cabinet manufacturer) said that for the material of this cabinet drywall screws would work best (predrill and countersunk). This is why I am hesitant to ask the contractor to back all the existing screws out. I am also afraid b/c the shaft diameter of drywall screws and cabinet washer-head screws are different, if we back out existing screws to screw new ones it may turn out loose. No?

gilda, I've been reading this forum for a long time. Millworkman and Cook's Kitchen are experts, professionals, and long-time contributors. The comments that they made about questioning the whole installation are spot on. That's a nice way of saying it.

You can provide the name of the cabinet manufacturer, and provide pictures of all of the installation details. You should insist on proper screws.

Finally, is your manufacturer's recommendation to use drywall screws in writing? I am very curious about that.

There is no manufacturer anywhere that would ever recommend drywall screws. Square drive wood screws, possibly. Masterbrand cares enough about that that they package installation screws with their cabinets. For a reason. It’s the industry standard.

They are lying to you. You have incompetents working for you. Lying incompetents. That is scary well beyond the cabinet installation.

I'm kinda funny. I wouldn't ask the GC anything. Instead, I would head to HD/Lowes, buy a box of 3" screws, take out my drill with the #2 Philips head and put the danged screws in myself.

In my opinion,, 4 per box are not enough. The only thing I might ask the GC, if I didn't know already, is whether the 2x4 gives me 3.5" or only 1.5" to drill into.

All, thanks for the feedback really appreciate it. So the cabinets are custom ordered, designed and made locally in Massachusetts. They are reputable w/ good reviews but now that I see your responses I am scared. The owner told me that he has been doing cabinet installs for many years and he feels confident 4 heavy gauge drywall screws (in each corner) should be safe. I confirmed in writing the specs of the screws and locations and he said it should be fine. I am also pulling permit for this work but given that I am not in construction business, I am curious whether looking at this level of detail on the install after job is done is in scope of inspection (city of Boston).

What if this GC and Designer have been doing this for years with no problems?

I've been driving for over 20 years and have never been in a car accident, so should I stop wearing my seat belt?

Just because nothing bad has happened, doesn't mean that nothing will. There are proper and safe ways to do things, and then things that work 'most of the time' and then occasionally fail.

Using drywall screws for anything other than drywall is a no-no.

But I too am curious about who exactly said 'drywall screw' (and did they actually say that or did they show something to the OP and the OP assumes they are drywall screws).

Is the design/manufacturer that is being referred to a single person? Or is it a company and the person that the OP is talking to is the sales person that got hired last week?

Is the 'contractor' someone different than the designer/manufacturer?

The designer/manufacturer is different from the contractor. The contractor only did the install but he followed the recommendation from the designer/manufacturer. The day of install, contractor mentioned that they generally use washer-head screws but manufacturer said w/ the material of this cabinet they should use regular drywall screws, predrill and countersunk.

Contractor is also pulling permit (the final inspection is not yet done as work is not yet fully done so that is why I'd like to address issues now). The designer/manufacturer is a family owned company.

Hello drywall screws are for drywall period. This is also another reason for loving Ikea cabinets the install is so simple. IMO if a cabinet maker said drywall screws are all that is needed for the cabinets I would be checking out a new cabinet maker.

Screws have to go through the hanging rail into the studs. You don't get a lot of room to do that. There isn't room for a bunch of extra screws. The washer head screws are a must. From anyone who knows anything. They have holding power and spread out the force.

"Local custom" can be some of the worst possible poorly built work. Custom is not a synonym for quality. Post a lot more pictures.

Drywall screws and cabinet screws have two very different heads on them. Drywall screws need to counter sink cabinet screws don't. One clamps the wood one needs to penetrate the wood the size of the head before it bears any load. This of course weakens the wood and mounting.

Home Depot sells GRK screws in the proper cabinet installation head. Simply back them out and install the correct ones. Cabinets should be installed with a French Cleat system with makes the install that much easier and neater.

It is important to also be sure the screw hole is larger then the actual screw. What can happen otherwise is you are putting the stress in the wrong area.

Go get all your plates and glass you will install in one cabinet put them in a box and weigh them. Then you will understand why using a sheetrock screw which has just about zero shear strength should not be used. Tell him to place his kids head under there while you test it.

Ridiculous, cost is probably $2 in difference.

All, thanks for the contributions. One other question: as I mentioned above, current cabinets are installed on the 2x4 horizontal backings/blocking in the wall. The screws are "not" going into the metal studs. As such, do you still advise backing out the drywall screws (can the heads snap?!) or leave them be and add additional GRK screws perhaps 1'' away from the existing screws into the backings? Also attaching the plans since people ask for it.

This is what we use. Cleanest way to install cabinets direct to wall or using a European rail and hanger system is also a good method but cabinets need to be constructed in a specific way to accept that. They have screws for wood and metal and you make your own flush cover cap out of the edge banding material.

Also connecting cabinets to one another is best done with two sided through bolts.

These are fieldstone cabinets. Are these drywall screws? And why so many holes? We had a complete kitchen renovation during which the contractor took many shortcuts and lied to us so trying to get a complete understanding of what needs to be corrected.

Start you own thread with all of your issues together in one place. But drywall screws are a big NO for cabinet installation.

So many holes because he is trying to find the stud probably. Used the wrong screws, also.

Here is the link to the full story

https://www.houzz.com/discussions/5724779/wrong-screws-for-cabinets-damage-glue-on-floor-contractor-problems